The Green One | 29.6" Powell-Peralta | TB110 | dual 6355 | Caliber 2 | 10S 14500mAh [serious]

a build thread for The Green One, an electric commuter skateboard

My tenth esk8 and seventh DIY-esk8 has been born. This is a commuter board for moving around town, going to work, grocery shopping, and is friendly to trains and shopping carts and hauling cargo. It’s not too heavy and has a handle on the nose. It has lights so I can be seen. It’s a sister board to the Blue One, the Black One, and the Red One.

hand-built waterproof 10S 14.5Ah Li-ion 42.0V battery | loopkey power switch | Mini Remote with two waterproofed radio receivers and two separate internal antenna orientations | dual 190Kv Maytech sealed 6355 motors with roll pin modifications | front truck Caliber2 - 50° | rear truck CaliberE - 44° | 29.62" x 9.85" Powell-Peralta OG Bug Skateboard Deck Reissue | two Flipsky Mini FSESC 4.20 motor controllers, 47Ω variety, with modifications for full submersible waterproofness | two 275-5M-15mm timing belts running at a 15/40 reduction ratio | @torqueboards TB110 72A prototype wheels | two vintage enertion motor mounts | Metroboard 2W riser lights | @RipTideSports tunnel risers | @3DServisas wheel pulleys

the radio controller

Testing these wheels out

the lights

Some closer images:

the loopkey

the drive train

the nose handle and external USB connectors

the lights connect with MR60

the motors connect with MR60

Here’s a little ride in a parking garage

The handle under the nose combined with the 29.62" deck means it’s extremely easy to pick up, and I can carry it straight-armed without it dragging on the ground.

a fuel gauge

some other prototype wheels

before she got all dirty, straight off the workbench

this sucker controls the lighting power

it was waterproofed after these images were taken

I made the battery from pre-welded P-packs I purchased on the forums

The ESCs from the factory looked sort of like this

But I connected some USB extenders then covered them in acrylic sealant. Like, a lot of it. Everywhere. Then put silicone on them, wrapped them in fishpaper and put silicone around that. And only run them at 21.5A each.


the software settings


that THICC rear end

I guess the first questions most people who aren’t familiar with esk8 ask: How fast does it go? How far does it go?

I’m not exactly sure but I think it tops-out at around 26mph (42km/h), but at a very high level of torque. It will easily knock you on your ass in a heartbeat if you let it. I’m considering moving the gearing ratio from 15/40 up to 16/40, especially with the 72A durometer wheels – they seem very accommodating to “grip”.

Its range is probably around 29 miles (47km) under ideal conditions and 17.5 miles (28km) in real world conditions.


nice compact build as always. Is there a reason you keep the wheel of the mini remote on?


I have plans for those and don’t want to lose them. They also provide some extremely minor level of ingress protection. …Though come to think about it, I’ve never had any issues with water and Mini Remotes, and been in heavy rain many times, and never done waterproofing modifications to them.


Love seeing this, Brian. Green with envy.


When you’re so rich you can begin naming your builds in any existing color


I just ordered a old school deck :call_me_hand:

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But… why not? You go to extreme measures to waterproof your board components, it seems to me that the remote should be even more protected as it is more prone to water damage?


I don’t know, it’s never been a problem. The radio receivers are definitely heavily waterproofed and I’ve had them fail due to moisture and contamination in the past, but the transmitter itself I’ve just never had water problems with so I’ve not had any reason to work on that aspect.

It could be because if water gets inside, it’s not under heavy vibration. So the water could just run to the bottom and not be atomized into a spray all over the entire inside.

I’m not sure.


Genuine question… do you carry a spare remote with you when you ride?

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I don’t.

I have a phone which has a Lyft application on it. But in practice, that’s only been used twice, ever.

I do carry spare batteries for the remote.

The radio receivers are also 100% inaccessible. Even on the workbench, it’d take me multiple days to get to the pins needed to bind a new remote to them. On the side of a road somewhere, fugget about it


I have the HFI cutoff set at 2000erpm at this moment in time.

Sensorless ERPM HFI: 2000.00

But that’s after lowering it from the default. On another board, I’ve lowered it under 1000erpm and it works even better. Next time I work on this board, I plan to turn that down to about 700erpm or maybe even less. Each time I lower it, stuff works better.

edit January 2023: the low cutoffs worked well ONLY on older HFI code and ONLY on single-drive large-motor vehicles. On dual drive, the cutoffs needed to be higher


This is good to know. I will play with this on mine.


The MuniMini

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Love this little build. So very practical so very diy.
Amazing write up too. Nothing left to ask haha

Though maybe actually you could explain the dutch pinning? You mentioned it in a pm and I thought you meant a hairstyle


One of my favourite bits.

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It’s fugly but I love it. Nice work. What the next color?


I just read the link. Looks like a good way to strengthen the shaft.

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1st thing I noticed:

What is this thin wire completely outside of the enclosure seemingly unprotected?
Seems very non-b264?