‘nother noob question: what’s the difference between calibers and ecalibers?
Axle length.
ECal extended for pulley bearing. Apparently prone to bend tho. You can cut back hangers on a standard clover to make do, without the extra length if needed. Boardnamics 184 is a precision alternative with stronger axles
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ecaliber trucks have longer axles, this allows you to use push-fit / press-fit pulleys with them, because those pulleys take an additional bearing. Slightly more expensive, but means your pulleys will always be aligned! 
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Ecalibers are worse. If you need extended axles, either cut down a regular caliber or buy Boardnamics’ 184s. They’re almost the same price and much better.
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Yea it’s just a bummer that u can’t really fit 15mm belts on the normal calibers and the 184s aren’t widely available used for sale
Edit: taking into consideration that I’m in the eu makes the whole situation even worse cuz of the tax and shipping costs
Dual 15mm belts is possible.
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Dual 6355 with 15mm belts and press fit pulleys on standard Caliber IIs. Note that the hanger was lathed down for the press fit pulleys.
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What size trucks are those?
184mm, with more axle exposed by machining down the ends.
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I just realize that I might run into some problems using 180mm paris trucks with a 15mm wheel pulley
Yeah, dual 6355s can be made to fit, but it’s a tight squeeze and you may run into space problems especially with 12 or 15mm pulleys.
My last build (caliber IIs and 6355s) had the motor cans practically touching.
The mounts in the picture above are thinner than the ones I made at the motor end, so that gives a little more clearance.
I’ll be using the bn paris mounts (6mm arm thickness and 10mm clamp thickness), so hopefully they will fit. Is there a way to grind down the axle without a dremel?
I mean, depending on how patient you are, you could theoretically do it with a file.
A dremel is a hell of a lot quicker and easier, and a lathe is even better, quicker, easier and more accurate than that.
If you have a local metal shop or machine shop you can take it to them and have them do it for you.
witha a file, my pulley had a smaller hole than my axle so i filed down the edges a bit
Yea, I just am not looking to purchase a dremel. Maybe I could borrow one from someone that lives near me. I look into that, that could make my life easier lol
I’ll have so cut off a chunk tho, so that would be difficult
oh ok
How about a hacksaw? Then a file to clean it up.
Oh, I think I have one of those. Not sure if I have a file but I could find one. Would that work?
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Edit: Neobox v6
Something is up with my master vesc after it spat out an abs_ocercurrent fault.
It happened right after changing my battery from 10s to 12s and dropping my remote that was turned off.
I turned the board back on, tested the throttle and got the error. After checking some things i checked my connections and saw a bullet not 100% connected (was maybe 2mm away from being fully connected)
Pc via usb won’t connect and metr won’t either
Before it connected it blinked red 5 times slow and 5 times fast.
nothing burned or blown *visibly
Slave now is fucked too.
Metr worked, connecting to pc worked.
Motor detection via metr did not.
connected to pc all good.
Reflashed firmware - all good.
Restarted - all good.
connected to pc, started detection, motor just jittered until pc disconnected and then it: connects, disconnects, connects, disconnects and so on automatically. Now metr wont connect either
blinks red once every 5 seconds. DRV? No way to check faults.
No idea if this was present before ↓. Could be dirt when i applied the conformal coating? (looks a bit worse wince i tried to scrape it away)
Apart from that both vescs look normal. No interruptions in the conformal coating (checked with blacklight)
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