Never had an issue! I absolutely love bergs, and I swear by them. Grip is excellent, ride quality, efficiency, etc. Everything is awesome.
I heard all the same things you have heard about them getting flats, so I slimed my tubes as soon as I got them. Never had a flat in over 500 miles.
There have been some quality control issues on some batches of tubes and tires. The second set of bergs I ordered this summer (and never used) had some issues with the tires. They were pretty much all warped, and I can imagine that being the cause of the wobbling at high speed that some people complain about.
So basically what im saying is that quality control is everything lol.
Haha gotcha. Thanks for the advice man, I really appreciate it! Currently deciding between TB110 (artic blue ofc) and bergs. Currently leaning towards 110’s because of availability (where tf can you even buy bergs? haggyboard site is still down) but bergs are just so damn sexy
Yeah he is in between warehouses and supply chains as he is moving from Taiwan to Spain(?). He has been off the radar since his liquidation sale in the summer. Really hoping he comes back soon and comes back swinging.
Yes they are and the ride quality is miles better than any urethane.
They’re not designed for large pneumatics. They allow for switching between thane and bergs easily (on typical 170/190kv motors) which I like a lot. Imo you could run them wihh larger tyres in the future when surfnacho produces his kegel core hubs (with lower kv motors), I plan to do this hence the 149kv motors which gears more for ~35mph on Bergs and I think ~40 on something like trampas 6.5inch Street tyres, or course the trade off being torque as you increase! With 170/190kv motors, I don’t think you can go much past a berg without creating torque issues.
But even small pneumatics seem unsuitable - I got the impression that 6inch bergs were the smallest pneumatics available and you would be giving up significant torque and flying along at 80km/h even with them.
Surfanachos hubs projected price (8 can’t find the thread/am on my phone) was something like 250 bucks, which is a bit much for me, though maybe Boardnamics will make some different gearing option for the GD systems, I think that’s the best bet imo
I’m trying to get 12V out of a 14s battery via a DCDC converter.
The application is a USB power supply, and the DCDC converter is 12V8A.
I’m thinking of using this switch between a battery and a DCDC converter.
Rating is DC30V15A.
Is it dangerous to use this switch?
I think that 2-3A can be used even with DC60V. Is this idea wrong?
For smaller batteries and motors like 5055, 15mm belts are kinda overkill anyways.
You want the narrowest belt that gets the job done and doesn’t skip, otherwise you’re just losing efficiency for no reason.
On my compact build, 12mm belts with idlers run great, no skipping at a fairly low tension.
+1 for BN idler mounts
Your use case is well within the ratings of the switch, so you should have no problem. Throw a 15A fuse between the battery and the whole lighting circuit if you are worried about something.
I have 6374 motors 190kv I think are rated for 80A (but website says 85A) On fox detection sometimes they’ll be 73.1A , 78.4A , 74.8A, etc. Should I set them both for whatever the VESC sets as default let’s say 78.4A? Or bump them both to 80A?
You know more about your motors than the VESC tool does. Those numbers it spits out are based on a lot of guesses, and dont take into account the limits of your hardware.
That said, running your motors at (or just under) the rated current for a long time is usually not very good for them. I would start out at 50A and bump it up if you need more torque.
True. I changed a lot of the VESC defaults. I lowered to 40A but motors get really hot after a few mins and make a loud screech sound while riding. At 60A the screech is gone, but motors get fairly hot, touchable. I know these are 6374s and my 6368s never get this hot, so I was hoping if I can just set them both at a 75A or 80A
How does everyone mount a top mount battery box onto a concave deck (MBS pattern)? I want to avoid drilling holes, and I originally wanted to velcro it down. However, being a concave surface, it’s not going to stick except at the edges of the board. Plus it wouldn’t let the deck flex well. My next idea is a velcro and spacer sandwich in the center, but I want to see what other people have done that’s probably a much more elegant solution than what I can come up with.
and the ride quality is miles better than any urethane.
