your right tit is bigger than the left
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That’s called “W concave” in the downhill longboarding universe
In the esk8 universe you’d probably see an engineering drawing with exact dimensions 
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Muchos respectos*
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point taken…
I’m lazy as fukk… and I hate doing things twice…
but when I get into a 3d cad program, even knowing all the numbers, I account for the unknown…
only experience will teach you what that unknown factor is,
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I didn’t use math, I used digital calipers. They did the math for me
I also measured a couple real world batteries.
But if you have more information, more is always better. Not all batteries are made alike
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Also if you’re using offset stacks and you’re not applying the fishpaper between them with some force
then you need to leave even more space for a sloppy job because you WILL NOT get those P-packs that close together by hand
The fishpaper doesn’t like to bend like that
we agree
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Can I reuse the middle part of the enclosure isolation foam stuff to cut out protective stripes for the battery?
Or would you recommend special stuff?
You can, but foam is for jarring and bouncing, it’s not good at protecting against abrasion like fishpaper, so definitely have fishpaper and shrinkwrap under that, don’t use that on the cells alone
Every battery is custom so I can’t tell you how to build yours but mine frequently look like
p-pack of cells: juice comes from here
fishpaper: abrasion/vibration resistance
shrinkwrap: mostly ingress protection and appearance
foam: protects against physical shock
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@b264
Sorry, how could I forget to show you the battery. Acido has built it for me! It’s already… Done with blue heatshrink and stuff. Why is it always blue though???
Will it be fine just reusing the foam stuff from the enclosure to give it a comortable, safe zone?
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because most of the times it’s blue 
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If you can find 180mm - 200mm heatshrink in another color, send me a link
Preferably clear or blinking purple
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Two separate issues:
1: would directfets offer better performance than the stock FETs? Yes.
2: Would they fit? No. Unfortunately the outline/footprint/connections/everything of d2pak fets are totally different than directfets, so you’d need to redesign the board to fit the new fets.
And if you’re going to go to that much trouble, you might as well implement some other improvements… etc etc until you land on the vesc6 designs.
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not good
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Lol, I had heat shrink, but because the wire got hot, it glued itself to the wire, so I couldn’t move it over the solder connection anymore.
Sad story
Yes… I’ll redo it some day
It’s vaguely possible that you could make some kind of “adapter PCB” that would have directFET pads on one side and d2pak pads on the other, and some nice high-current vias/traces in between to make that magic happen… But I don’t think they exist yet and I ain’t gonna design them unless there’s $ involved. Too many projects already.
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Stretching helps. Get a scissor or something under the heat shrink and stretch it. The fact that i don’t see any heat shrink i assume you removed it all together
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