The resistors were upgraded some time back. I sent my pair of 4.20 singles to the wizard last year and he did the same resistor upgrade. Running like champs since then.
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Won’t work except maybe if it’s adhesive lined.
You can get self-fusing tape though, or you could use liquid electrical tape like Brian suggested. That stuff is awesome for fixing problems like that.
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Or just resolder the whole shabang, but better this time lol
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No, that’s just risking shorting shit out while you’re playing with fire. I definitely condone playing with fire, but go outside and make some pipe bombs or something. For that wire you want MG Chemicals #4223
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technically it’s shebang… emphasis on the female
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If it’s hard to find then ask someone in EU what they prefer to use for those problems
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I’ve got that stuff. Works pretty well, but I don’t have any 4223 to compare it with.
It makes a mess when applied, so mask off your area of application so you can remove said mask while the goop is still wet for some nice clean edges.
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The clear k-705 is one of the best waterproof compound i have ever used. it’s used in marine aopplications. It’s soft and electrical neutral. I use it to waterproof remotes, on escs, and cables.
#Aliexpress AU $5.70 23%OFF | Free shipping 45g Kafuter Silicone Industrial Adhesive K-704 705 704B RTV Silicone Rubber White balck Transparent Glue
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Nice, probably gonna order one as a spare
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I can lay it out so that the cabling can connect next to each other instead of ontop, though this would add to the bend and consequently to the length, It would be 19.5 CM in length with the configuration shown in the picture, it would also be closer to your design. How do you measure the concave properly?
Bought a used Trampa here. It came with two 20,000 mAh Turnigy 12-24 C batteries. What is the correct amp setting on that fancy ass Graupner charger? I fingergepushened the button trying to turn on the buzzer, with very bad timing, and I am not sure if I changed the setting.
put something flat on your board and then measure at the ends and at 2/3 how many cm it’s from the flat thing.
also i found this on thingiverse, this might be a good mechanism to lock it and unlock it easily
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Is there any guide about how to match motor, esc, and battery sizes?
Let s say I pick for motor a Maytech 6374, which is rated for 60A.
Staying on MT for the esc i can choose between MTVESC50A, which is 4.12 based, or SUPERFOC6.8 which is 6 based, what is the difference since they are both rated 50A?
So, now that i know my bottleneck is 50A, it means i need to make a battery pack that can output 50A, correct? probably not since @b264 told me i should stay under 25A and i remember i read somewhere that battery current and motor current do not match… but how can the motor receive 50A if my battery output is 25A?
looks kinda weird cuz i have to print the latching part separately
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It looks good, timmy! but it looks very thick? maybe it’s because I don’t have anything to compare it to, for scale. Could you possibly put it in the board in your program so that I can get a sense of the scale?
you still need the measurement for the concave? Not sure how to measure it though, so you’d need tell me how. Didn’t find any good YT tutorials for it
the inside is 53mm. I can easily make it less but you said the batteries are 3.2 and that it needed 2 and a bit extra for the connectors