Noob question thread! 2020_Summer

Haha caught me red handed, I didn’t check the search function.

Google is a good friend, except if you find other infos.

Thats why i’m so unsure.

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I´m looking into ways of integrating a few led diodes into either a riser or the deck itself (LY EVO 40). My country requires electric skateboards to always have positions lights, even during the day. So I´m not looking for massive or even decent lights, just the bare minimum in order to be able to talk me out of a fine :sweat_smile: while keeping the aesthetics of the board.

I´ve seen a failed kickstarter that was a few years old which would be ideal (Skate Ray lights), if one of you could point me in the right direction wither DIY or premade I would really appreciate it

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I have maker x “vesc”. It came with 2 mm bullet connectors on it for the motors . I have a Tb 6380 with 4 mm connectors . Will it be ok to put 2 mm connectors on the motor or should I redo the “”vesc”” to 4 mm?

Either way is valid as long as you don’t exceed the current ratings of whatever connectors you choose to use.

MT60 or MR60 connectors are another option, and they have the advantage of being able to be zip tied together so they can’t vibrate apart.

Metroboard has those if you email and ask about them… the “2W” version … drive them both in series at 9.0V for postion lights

cheers

check the Blue One and the Green One, they both have them

Oh, actually, the Evo is one of the few longboard decks these won’t work on. They will be angled wrong and won’t shine down the road. But you could start with those blocks and DIY reposition the LEDs to point at 10 degrees up or down in a custom setup for that deck

You may need a 10mm drill bit for that and some epoxy or neutral cure silicone

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Which one is more expensive? Which one sits out of the enclosure all the time?
As far as i know, maker-x new ships with 4mm bullets

Thank you for the tip! Seems to be what I´m looking for.

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These things are great for driving them

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W8UTRJA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

make sure you get the LM2596HV version and not the LM2596 version

cheers

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How do people test the grip of their wheels on turns? Don’t you have to go quite fast to test the limit, which will definitely result in a fall? :frowning:

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Keep going faster until you loose grip… usually you can feel it getting flaky before they totally lose grip… then change your underwear

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I must contradict you here. My mbs 100mm wheels grip like a dream until they just don’t. No warning.
I ate shit twice because of that: once in a real car crash and once braking on painted crossing lines. Both stole the rug under me when i needed it the most.
At least in rain they are somewhat predictable: they ride like 2 bars of soap in a bathtub

@rusins maybe high braking amps and fully braking while leaning on non-drive wheels? I could skid the wheels mentioned up pretty violently at -50A/side. From there you can probably predict what will happen in corners as well

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Bumpity bump

Can a Motor be speed locked?

I connected my old hub motor to a vesc but can only get 38km/h out of it.

Motors Amps tested at 27A that vesc tool gave me and bumped to 40A.

Battery 20A

On metr I’d have to set it to 1:1 right?

This

In the rain, just act like you’re driving on ice and you’ll be fiiiiiine

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Mechanically in the motor itself? Not without a million dollars of R&D.
You’re probably just at the limits of KV/voltage.

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The esc it came with was set to ~70kv.

Tested on 10s, gonna try 12s tomorrow

ESCs aren’t “set” to a specific KV. They don’t care.

KV is an intrinsic characteristic of each motor.

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oh okay. Took it from the sticker of the ESC (Hobbywing)

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I think that’s a “works best with” guideline.

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