By what metric? What are we comparing it to? 
Quite a few people are doing it now, I know @Sender and @Andy87 have done a bunch recently with good results. @torqueboards is also having his come out the factory “battle hardened”, to what extent I’m not sure.
Dex could you post a picture of the stator and magnets of one of yours that has come stock out the factory? It would be good to see how they are done please.
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compared to the other ones I’ve tried… sealed Maytech 6374, older TB6374, TB6355, Racerstar 5065, Dark Matter 6374, KEDA 6364
For single motor drive, the TB6380 is so far the best by far in my experience
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Awesomesause!
Only issue I had with my older generation TB motors were that none had loctite on the axle grub screws so they would always eventually get loose. I added green loctite to all of them and none have come loose again.
Also had one magnet retainer come loose so a few drops of green loctite fixed that too
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@Battosaii it’s been my experience that every motor has that problem eventually, and using Loctite 290 helps but only prolongs the failure. But there are ways to get around that.
I’ve been pinning my motors with either 1) roll pins, 2) keys, or 3) dutch pins. The dutch pin and roll pin work better than the key way as they hold against slip in two axis instead of just one. The dutch pin (3) seems to be the best.
-
roll pin
-
key
- dutch pin
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They changed a lot from the quality they might have produced some years ago.
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That’s alot of extra work just to make it secure why dont factories already do this from the get go.
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Because they wanna do as little as possible lol
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Well I dont have a drill press so I’d have to eyeball it or use a dremel to do they keyway cut lol
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The Hobbyking sk8 motors have a keyway on both ends of the shaft.
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Nice that’s the quality manufacturing I’m talking about.
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You can thank me and a 100 like me who gave them feedback on the crap things they sent out first. Yours holding up well? I still have a pair of upgraded units that I was loathe to try after the fiasco with the first generation.
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So far so good. Not the most powerful motor and they heat up fast but otherwise they are solid. We will see how long they will last.
Oh and thank you. 
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That surprises me because the ones I got were silly powerful and stayed cool. They had tinfoil bearings and that silly brass collar thing but performance wise I could not fault them until they failed and then…
Haggy have upgraded their motors from the sk8 clone to maytech now. Might be an option.
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Maytech are good but they come with their own problems.
They do. Mine were ok but lost a magnet here and there. The only ones that have lasted and taken punishment are the SK3’s
You and I ride the same temps and those things just run and run. They are raw and rough but don’t break. Slightly slower initial punch but once spinning are wonderful motors.
I was a sport bike fanatic in my distant youth and I compare them to a GSXR750 as opposed to the r6. R6 will try to throw you off immediately. The GSXR will wait till you are knee down around a corner before unleashing a power band. Mid range power is like nothing else I’ve tried so far.
They like you to keep it pinged.
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My beef with maytech is mainly with the silly small set screws that hold the can to the shaft and the small axle length.
As a matter of course I remove and re loctite all set screws before installation with all motors. Been burnt. Not happening again. Never noticed the shaft length being a problem but unless you have built every thing on everything you miss things lol
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Haggies maytech’s are extended shafts from what I understand. I’ll have to double check but they’re using a D shaped pulley shaft, so it’d make sense for them to be dshaped where it connects to the can.
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