Ah. Yeah. I wasn’t sure what tools you had at your disposal.
Theres always jb weld 
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Hey, that looks familiar 
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Come to think of it, i am thinking which would be the better medium for this use case, loctite 638 or JB weld…
Another dutch pin perpendicular to that one, coming in from the edge, on the other side of the shaft. Then fill in behind the pin with a little epoxy so it can never come out.
Well JB Weld but I might just prefer a softer epoxy like West System 650. JB Weld 8265S can actually crack it’s so hard. WS650 is slightly more ductile. (But still hardly ductile at all)
It’s not applicable here, but my solution to this on a single-sided shaft was to drill and tap the shaft and put a bolt & washer in it, to mechanically keep the dutch pin in there, and also keep the shaft from sliding out.
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So i found a thing from Jerry’s abandoned instagram account.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BGgRAwhI7vr/?igshid=MWZjMTM2ODFkZg==
What is this and how can i make it!
When hand spinning the side where the motor isnt connected to, the can doesnt spin, same on the other side. But when throttling, both wheels and the can spins. What’s this sorcery? Is this all in some bearing magic that i dont know about? I do not see any differential gear as well
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Now I’m curious
Also, how does it brakes then ?
One-way bearings, I think. I wouldn’t think they’d be reliable or long-lasting, but I have no experience with them so that’s just speculation.
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I think you need a coiled or slotted spring pin horizontally instead of a vertical Dutch pin.
Coiled should be best to hold up against esk8 vibrations. Maybe once it’s seated you could even follow up w/a tap & grub screw so it can’t back out
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Why not start with an M8 shoulder bolt? Then you don’t need to turn down most of it
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There has to be some additional trick otherwise you would have to wave goodbye to motor break
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Yup that’s what I was suggesting too
Im also curious about this, i couldnt see the trick used here. Maybe there is a patent filed?
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Ahh no trick here sadly. Probably really just one-way bearings 
I found the video on their youtube channel and the very same question was asked there.
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braking an hub board with hubs is less than optimal, let alone a belt board… ^^"
I mean that solve the differential problame with the 2wd 1motor thing, but then you have actualy 3 motors 
At this point you can have one directional bearing and one normal bearing, so you still get all the braking power of the 1wd belt system
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Sucks
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Turn the one way bearing so it’s two wheels of braking and one wheel of power
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So when braking for example with a one way bearing, it means the inner race of the bearing is rubbing on the motor shaft? Right? I wonder if that’ll be a problem long term. I’m down to give the one way bearing a try.
I think it is the opposite : the bearing is on the motor pulley and is fixed somehow on the shaft : when the motor accelerate the bearing doesn’t turn so the pulley is fixed on the axle and turns,
when the motor brakes, the bearing act like a bearing and so the pulley just roll free with the belt and wheel
at least that’s how I’d do it
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