Not a bad idea, that means i will need to get a 12mm shaft and then turn majority down to 8mm.
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Not sure if Iâm understanding it fully, but could a C clip help? It seems like a vibration/weird dynamic load problem rather than a sustained force, thatâs why I went to C clip. I think what Iâm not getting is how it pulled through from the other side where the ânormalâ pulley was mounted
Edit: never mind sorry, I forgot itâs not a continuous axle but the plate bolts to the motor and also the new axle. On the 12mm axle turned down, what about a shoulder bolt? That should have a head that could be used in @Bavioze 's drawing and a length thatâs useful as an axle. I believe itâs what boardnamics does
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I might attempt this, and use a M12 bolt, turned down to that shape. The shoulder will prevent it from coming out. As for prevention of having the shaft spinning, I could do a dutch pin again, or maybe even two for redundancy.
I found a 12.9 grade M12 bolt on aliexpress, might go with this
Welding it in place ?
Welding steel to aluminum? 
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My bad I thought the issue was the pin backing off, not the axle
What about a bolt with a square neck. That would keep it from spinning.
Iâve done some filing on the inside of the clamps to make them go further in toward the bushings
Right, but then i would need to machine/file the hole of my plate to the square. Not confident in making it concentric haha.
@b264 no worries, i donât need to push the mounts closer to the middle anymore, if i am going with this single motor dual drive, they have to be pushed closer to the tip of the axle.
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Ah. Yeah. I wasnât sure what tools you had at your disposal.
Theres always jb weld 
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Hey, that looks familiar 
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Come to think of it, i am thinking which would be the better medium for this use case, loctite 638 or JB weldâŚ
Another dutch pin perpendicular to that one, coming in from the edge, on the other side of the shaft. Then fill in behind the pin with a little epoxy so it can never come out.
Well JB Weld but I might just prefer a softer epoxy like West System 650. JB Weld 8265S can actually crack itâs so hard. WS650 is slightly more ductile. (But still hardly ductile at all)
Itâs not applicable here, but my solution to this on a single-sided shaft was to drill and tap the shaft and put a bolt & washer in it, to mechanically keep the dutch pin in there, and also keep the shaft from sliding out.
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So i found a thing from Jerryâs abandoned instagram account.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BGgRAwhI7vr/?igshid=MWZjMTM2ODFkZg==
What is this and how can i make it!
When hand spinning the side where the motor isnt connected to, the can doesnt spin, same on the other side. But when throttling, both wheels and the can spins. Whatâs this sorcery? Is this all in some bearing magic that i dont know about? I do not see any differential gear as well
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Now Iâm curious
Also, how does it brakes then ?
One-way bearings, I think. I wouldnât think theyâd be reliable or long-lasting, but I have no experience with them so thatâs just speculation.
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I think you need a coiled or slotted spring pin horizontally instead of a vertical Dutch pin.
Coiled should be best to hold up against esk8 vibrations. Maybe once itâs seated you could even follow up w/a tap & grub screw so it canât back out
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Why not start with an M8 shoulder bolt? Then you donât need to turn down most of it
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