I bought my board with a VX2 but they shipped a VX1 since they VX2 they got in for me was DOA.
@Evwan mentioned in another thread that VX2’s are buggy and have a history of injuring people.
He said get a Hoyt which I’m def considering and just telling my board builders don’t worry about sending me that VX2.
Wondering if the general consensus is that VX2 later versions are still crappy and dangerous or have the bugs been worked out?
Yes, but.
Yes, the threadlocker will burn off if heated enough.
But, be careful about heating bolts, because at the temperatures required to burn off the threadlocker, you can affect the heat-treat of the steel, thus significantly changing its strength characteristics.
Better to heat it until it softens and then use a steel bristle brush, or use a solvent instead. Acetone is good and easily available. Methylene chloride (aka DCM, dichloromethane) is even better, but harder to get and more nasty.
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I have a bkb duo and I would really would like more range, is it possible to adding a brand new 10s3p 30q battery in parallel to my used battery that I’m currently using. I had the board for about 2 months but I ride it a lot and charge it a lot when I’m on group rides.
Definitely possible! Just make sure both packs are at the same voltage when you connect them, otherwise you’ll get sparks / one pack rapidly charging the other. I.e., connect both packs together when they are fully charged!
If you search around the forum, you’ll see that quite a few people use a secondary battery to extend their range; you can draw some inspiration from them if you need it.
This whole bypassing BMS thing is confusing me. I’m not bypassing my BMS (am I making a mistake?), do I need a fuse then? I’m using a makerX antispark switch (I know loop-key is preferred by many of you guys).
Loctite? IMHO that’s a recipe for future failure.
I haven’t used one, but I was told last week that my colleagues stopped shipping boards with any type of vx remote as 1 in 3 remotes would be buggy as hell or just plain dead.
Hoyt is the way to go for good reliability everytime
Not the best russian roulette
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In my opinion (and the opinion of most of the veteran builders on the forum), you should bypass the BMS unless you have a very good reason not to.
If you don’t bypass it, if any one of a big long list of parameters gets out of the expected range, the BMS will shut off power from the battery to the rest of the board. That means no throttle obviously, but also no brakes, which is dangerous as fuck. If you’re not expecting this lack of throttle and brakes, which you likely won’t be, you will probably fall off your board and streetface.
You should always, always, always fuse the charge port. Fusing the main discharge leads is a lot less common and less of a must.
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Instead of using the BMS outputs, you wire the pos and neg from the battery directly into your antispark. You also wire in a pos, neg and all of the balance leads from the BMS.
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I actually feel like fusing the main discharge is worse. I don’t fuse that. But yeah put a fuse on the charge port. Either the + or -
If you don’t have one and are in the USA, I got you
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For people in the US, I just bought 10 of these, so if you want one I’ll sell them for $1.52 ($1 + envelope and stamp). I hope these will be small enough for a letter envelope lol.
they’re the 58v 7.5a fuses. After shipping from mouser I’m probably still losing a couple of cents per fuse but I don’t really care.
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You can ship them with a stamp if you do it a certain exact way. 1 fuse MAX per envelope. Tape it inside the envelope so it doesn’t move around inside. On the outside of the envelope, wrap a single layer of wide packing tape around both sides of the envelope, over where the fuse is inside. This prevents the fuse from busting through the paper when pinched between the high speed sorting belts inside their machines. Don’t use more packing material than that or it will get returned as too thick/heavy/big for a stamp.
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yeah I should mention 1 fuse per person, and I’m gonna keep 5 for myself so this wont be an issue. I’m glad I can ship it in a letter envelope though
Thanks for the feedback!
I want to make my board as safe as possible, which means I should bypass the BMS, right.
I don’t have any good reason not to bypass the BMS (as far as I’m aware of) other than that I don’t understand it, so I find it very confusing and intimidating 
Is there a “bypassing BMS for dummies” thread or video or something?
Can I buy a plug and play bypassed-BMS-battery or do I need to do it my self?
Any battery pack you buy on this forum will be bypassed as buying a high discharge BMS is expensive, it takes up space and is mostly pointless.
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It’s pretty straightforward. The two main BMS layouts look like one of these:
All that really matters is that you’ve got the big blue wire coming from the battery, going into the B- port, then a bib black wire coming out from P- and going into the rest of the power system.
To bypass the BMS, you either need to bridge between P- and B- (with a comparably beefy wire), or just disconnect the wire from P- and connect that wire onto B- (so there are two wires going to B- and no wires going to P-).
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Ok, thanks guys! You made this seem a little less scary now 
So this means that as long as I buy a battery pack on this forum, I don’t really have to worry about it? I just have to make sure the battery builder is bypassing the BMS and adding a fuse/ fuseholder on the charge port?
I see some people put “lights” in their wiring diagram, what’s that for?
I’d assume for installing a buck/boost converter to allow for bling bling hardware. I have my front light connected directly to the battery
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i don’t think any battery builder here would build a bms discharge pack by default unless the buyer request that specifically 
u r good on that part
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It’s for lights or accessories on the board. You can just omit that if you’re not using them. Typically a buck converter would connect here, and it would drive the lights.
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