Btw, are they battle hardened after all?
Yea disappointment is pretty high. Bought Flipsky 6384s, wait 2-3wks, missing hole pattern. Buy Ant 63100’s, wait 3wks, fall apart immediately.
On a side note the new 6384s seem pretty nice.
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Be really really careful that you dont punch through with the drill and hit the stator windings. Ive seen a pair of motors ruined this way. A drill press is probably your friend here. Also probably a good idea to remove the bell housing so you dont get a bunch of metal shavings in the magnets.
A 3d printed jig that mounts to the existing holes and helps line up the new holes would be helpful im sure, and a pretty easy thing to make.
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Gonna wait on a response from Ant before I attempt to repair these. Really hope I don’t have to do that. Board has been sitting waiting for just motors for a couple months now.
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Freerchobby motors suffer from this problem worse than other motors it seems like. The 63100 form factor just screams to exacerbate this design flaw. On other motors I have done this to fix the problem:
The first two ways tackle rotational slip only. (The axle still could slip out of the rotor) The third way, the dutch pin with the tapped axle, combats both rotational slippage and lateral shaft slippage like you show above with your new motors.
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i have broken many APS motors and have a set of freerchooby that haven’t given me any real probs yet knocks on wood - need to put some more mile on them tho. they do wine pretty loud at about 28mph but I think its from loose windings that I need to open up and address.
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Oh don’t worry it’s just a hypothetical, I don’t even have one of these to start with. I had gotten as far as using a drill press and keeping the magnets away but the 3D printed jig is a good idea I hadn’t thought of
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Got a response from Ant. They don’t use any glue. It’s heat set and has two set screws.
Went ahead and reset the axle with a torch. I put some retaining compound in the set screw holes before putting the set screws in and they forced the liquid out the back… At least it’s making good contact with the axle. Did that for both motors, guess I’ll see how well that works out.
The axle is round at the end, but there are cut slots for the set screws so at least the axle shouldn’t track the other way out.
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Even v2’s?
They seem closer to what newer flipshits are, only they’re sold from the uk, have a warranty, and have open cans. Also they offer battle hardening for free so can’t complain.
But biggest difference is i can knock on their door if i have a problem and they refuse to communicate
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I run the same motors. Glad I came across this post. gonna do the same for mine. Although I had them for a while haven’t had any slippage… yet 
fingers crossed
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IMO, 63100 is just WAY too long for an unsupported can design like this, especially in esk8 application where the vibrations are heavy.
Even 6374s are pushing it (I’ve seen plenty of bent shafts/wobbled-out cans).
For such long motors, a skirt bearing is really a necessity, not a luxury.
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I think with a really good bash guard it could be ok.
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While that would definitely help, it does nothing to reduce the amount of vibrations the motors receive transmitted to them through the trucks and mounts from the road.
Since our motors are directly mounted to the trucks, they are closely coupled with the wheels, and thus to the road - Especially on 'thane. I’ve seen motors with bent shafts or loose cans with zero cosmetic damage from direct impacts.
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I had the same problem on my 63100 freerchobby motors.
One had a moving axle resulting in a moving rotor. They sent me a new rotor (unbranded).
The other one was fine until I started to hear a “snap” sound everytime I brake or accelerate.
It was the axle that was moving… I put loctite 2 days ago on the grub screws, waited 24h and for now it works. But I didn’t ride a lot since, i hope it will last.
I used to have 63105 APS motors that were perfect for me, idk why I sold them 
These freerchobby motors heat up like crazy comparing the APS. My wh/km increased a lot too (new motors + 3d servisas finality gear drive).
Do you think they can be poorly efficient ? Or it’s just normal for a closed can motor ?
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Didn’t have probs with the red v2’s but I broke the original black v2’s magnets pretty quick.
Didn’t know they offer free battle hardening now, that should honestly fix it.
Also yeah I wish I had a motor producer in my neck of the woods I wouldn’t blame you for going to them in your instance.
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How hot do you get the aps ones compared to freerchobby?
APS got barely warm on touch. Maybe 40°c, even after a long hill.
Freerchobby are at 60+ after few minutes on flat road…
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With newer models in 2024 How do y’all think APS compares the flipsky motors now? Particularly the 63100’s?
In 2024 I would go straight for @Skyart Power motors and not even consider APS or Flipsky or Ant Innovation.
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