Bought these motors for the 30mm hole layout to fit Hypertrucks. I think these are FreeRChobby rebrand. Sadly new Flipsky motors need an adapter.
Anyway they came in today. First thing I always do is inspect the motor before installing. Removed the circlip, used a small plastic wedge to start the separation between the can and stator and gave a few light taps to the shaft to knock the can loose.
After looking inside I just noticed that small tapping exercise made the shaft slip. No glue, set screw only. This would have lasted no time on the board.
Part of me wants to try drill and tap new holes, because it seems tricky but doable and it’s always more fun trying something like that for a specific purpose rather than just finding some scrap hard steel to arbitrarily do it on
You were a lot more determined than me.
My freerchobby motors wouldn’t come loose at all and i quit before i got to what you did.
How are they? Well, terribly unbalanced, but they’ve been running for 700km so far with no major issues on moon geardrives.
I will still replace them with aps 63105 motors as soon as possible though
Be really really careful that you dont punch through with the drill and hit the stator windings. Ive seen a pair of motors ruined this way. A drill press is probably your friend here. Also probably a good idea to remove the bell housing so you dont get a bunch of metal shavings in the magnets.
A 3d printed jig that mounts to the existing holes and helps line up the new holes would be helpful im sure, and a pretty easy thing to make.
Gonna wait on a response from Ant before I attempt to repair these. Really hope I don’t have to do that. Board has been sitting waiting for just motors for a couple months now.
Freerchobby motors suffer from this problem worse than other motors it seems like. The 63100 form factor just screams to exacerbate this design flaw. On other motors I have done this to fix the problem:
The first two ways tackle rotational slip only. (The axle still could slip out of the rotor) The third way, the dutch pin with the tapped axle, combats both rotational slippage and lateral shaft slippage like you show above with your new motors.
i have broken many APS motors and have a set of freerchooby that haven’t given me any real probs yet knocks on wood - need to put some more mile on them tho. they do wine pretty loud at about 28mph but I think its from loose windings that I need to open up and address.
Oh don’t worry it’s just a hypothetical, I don’t even have one of these to start with. I had gotten as far as using a drill press and keeping the magnets away but the 3D printed jig is a good idea I hadn’t thought of
Got a response from Ant. They don’t use any glue. It’s heat set and has two set screws.
Went ahead and reset the axle with a torch. I put some retaining compound in the set screw holes before putting the set screws in and they forced the liquid out the back… At least it’s making good contact with the axle. Did that for both motors, guess I’ll see how well that works out.
Even v2’s?
They seem closer to what newer flipshits are, only they’re sold from the uk, have a warranty, and have open cans. Also they offer battle hardening for free so can’t complain.
But biggest difference is i can knock on their door if i have a problem and they refuse to communicate
I run the same motors. Glad I came across this post. gonna do the same for mine. Although I had them for a while haven’t had any slippage… yet fingers crossed
While that would definitely help, it does nothing to reduce the amount of vibrations the motors receive transmitted to them through the trucks and mounts from the road.
Since our motors are directly mounted to the trucks, they are closely coupled with the wheels, and thus to the road - Especially on 'thane. I’ve seen motors with bent shafts or loose cans with zero cosmetic damage from direct impacts.
fingers crossed