Maytech 6396 motor

[Riako]

@tipsy

fill the magnet gaps half way, but it seems decent enough to not bother adding epoxy. Especially since they used that blue poop to balance the rotor already.

I just take back my motors to see how it has evolved, and it has not on this two part ^^

So yeah, Maytech does this for long/some times already. At least they do this/or Overion ask it in his motors since at least his 1st bash in 2016!

[mackann]

They didnt do it like this until this year i think:

[b264]

The key between the rotor and shaft is one of the greatest things I have ever seen. And long overdue.

[rene]

Does the ping also prevent the shaft moving in while riding helical gears?

Thats happens with my MTO-6880

[torqueboards]

Curious if that keyway shaft will even be worth it.

Considering that you have a weaker aluminum against a steel motor shaft + steel keyway.

[b264]

@rene

Does the ping also prevent the shaft moving in while riding helical gears?

No, it looks like it only prevents slip in the rotational direction, based only on what I see in the photos. I could be wrong.

To prevent slip in both directions, use option 1 or 3 here:

Motor discussion: the best and worst of it all

@Battosaii it’s been my experience that every motor has that problem eventually, and using Loctite 290 helps but only prolongs the failure. But there are ways to get around that. I’ve been pinning all my motors with either 1) roll pins, 2) keys, or 3) dutch pins. The dutch pin and roll pin work better than the key way as they hold against slip in two axis instead of just one. The dutch pin (3) seems to be the best. roll pin [20190710_114113] key [20190716_195730] [20190717_1244…

This is more functionally like option 2. Option 3 is a dutch pin in much the same way as this 6396, but has the added bolt holding the shaft tight from slipping in the axial direction

[rene]

Thanks!

The Dutch Pin sounds great.
Need to find somebody to drill that hardend steel.

[Riako]

@mackann

They didnt do it like this until this year i think:

No. But, right, I bought them in 2017, not 2016 ! ^^

But they already did it in 2017 so. Also, like I say, maybe just on the Overion 130kV one, he asks a lot of add-on mods at that time! They are rock solid as I still use them and work like a charm !!
I will take more photos tonight if you want.

---

rush 2017

[b264]

@rene

Need to find somebody to drill that hardend steel.

The motor shaft is usually case-hardened.

[rene]

What kind of drill do you take?
How deep do you drill?

[b264]

For the bolt in the shaft? I don’t recall exactly. I did it on lathe.

[rene]

Yes - I would also take a lathe - but still on the lathe one need the right drill, correct?
Am asking - bcoz I am more the computer dude (+/- 5V)

[pjotr47]

Mine 6880’s from the beginning of 2019 have it too. I was always wondering what that blue shit was

[MustardTiger]

@torqueboards

6396 is the same stator as a 6380. Just FYI @b264. Just with a larger bearing. If I’m not mistaken.

Is this correct? Only difference between your 6380 is the bearing and that it’s sealed?

[ahrav]

Correct same sized stator.

[torqueboards]

@MustardTiger

Is this correct? Only difference between your 6380 is the bearing and that it’s sealed?

Yup

[DerelictRobot]

Size comparison, side by side.

6365, 6396, 6380

The 6396 and 6380 are like 150g~ difference in weight (1212g vs 1054g)

[torqueboards]

6396 or with additional bearing. Does make sense for a MTB or Gear Drive setup.

[CiscoV]

I wish damn maytech didn’t Take into account the titty when advertising their sealed motors

[Riako]

if it can highlight some … :

some old pic and measurements … hope you can understand it

6374 new HEV APS, 6374 old APS, 6374 Overion/Maytech enclosed, 6380 FS, 8072 APS.