Wiring for the lights. My guess is to keep them removeable/serviceable. I’m surprised they aren’t completely encased in epoxy though.
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@b264 have you considered upgrading bushings? considering how squished yours are, they don’t work as-is, getting some higher duro ones would help
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I tried higher durometer ones and I felt like I couldn’t turn. The best feeling ones I’ve found are the green bushings that come in Caliber E trucks, but I don’t have any more of those
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These have roll pins instead of dutch pins because of the way the back of the rotor is shaped. There is a whole thread about it 
It’s similar to a key on a pulley, it prevents the pulley from ever slipping on the shaft. In the same way, the pin prevents the bell (rotor) from ever slipping on the shaft.
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Not sure yet 
I’ll probably just keep the shortboard fleet size at 4 and rebuild/maintain/upgrade them as needed.
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That’s how the front truck connects to the back truck. That powers the rear light.
My newest thing is not having any wires connecting the enclosure to the deck. It helps drastically with servicing. In theory, when all 4 vehicles are changed over to this way, you could just swap an entire enclosure from one skate to another, and only redo the software for it to work. Or swap an entire drivetrain, back truck with motors and everying on, and set up the software, without even opening the enclosure. This wire being buried would prevent things like that.
On prior skates this cable has entered the enclosure and then exited the other side, but routing it around the enclosure might look ugly, but the time it saves on servicing is worth it. I can unplug 3 MR60 connectors and loosen 4 nyloc nuts and the entire enclosure can be removed. In an ideal world, these two 22AWG wires would be inside the deck, going from one truck to the other, and have connectors in the deck itself.
@RyEnd Your guess is spot on
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just remembered something I have a ton of, water damage indicator stickers, you want a sheet?
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At this point, just get some potting compound 
save you some time.
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No, but thank you
This is designed to work with water inside the enclosure. The enclosure has a seal for water resistance, but if water does get inside, it’s designed to still work normally.
you can line the perimeter and tell exactly where it penetrates 
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Most of that is for vibration and keeping things from rubbing on one another, keeping them apart. The waterproofing was done before the silicone was added.
I’ve considered potting the entire enclosure before. I might try that someday.
Really liking your old school deck creations. Very practical and transportable. Cool fleet man!
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I suggest this mostly because it seems like the gen1 Metroboard enclosure style (and specifically the mounting of said enclosures) that you use on these short boards does not seem to keep out water very well, even with the gasket. I suspect this is because all of the clamping force holding it to your deck is on that one band near the center, so your two side edges have less clamping force compressing the seal.
Clearly you have worked out a solution that is reliable for you, however, so dont mind me 
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Obviously, you’ve had experience with these before 
I’ve found a certain gasket, and a certain installation procedure, that seems to work much better. Still sometimes water can occasionally get inside but for the most part it stays out pretty well. I also use 2 bolts to hold the enclosure tight, and the other 2 bolts are just snug as backups in case a bolt breaks. Like the chain on a trailer hitch.
Out of curiosity, where did you get so many of these enclosures? I live 4 miles from the Metroboard workshop, and they still wont sell me one of their aluminum Slim enclosures lol
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Is there a reason that I’m missing as to why people don’t use a full piece of rubber over the whole enclosure opening, instead of just around the lip? That should help a lot with ingress? No?
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I’ve also thought about doing that. Haven’t tried it yet though.
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You can buy the boxes from Ilan, but he has no straps left. I have a couple extra straps I’ve custom made but they are in short supply. They’re very finicky and they have to be exactly the right shape, otherwise they appear to work at first, but don’t because they stress the enclosure in places.
Most parts from Gen 1 boards if they have them left, you can buy them. They are out of many of them.
If he needs the aluminum slim enclosures for Metroboard customers then it’s understandable why he wouldn’t sell them yet
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Yeah thats fair. The couple of times I went to the workshop it didnt seem like they keep a huge amount of stock on hand. Made to order businesses are the worst!
This board is muy beun man! I’m trying to talk myself out of building a PP short board 
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