Cheers
Was wondering where that was
Any chance you have a link for it @xsynatic
This is one of my favorites
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this is a bit of an odd question, but can 2 different (dual) motor controllers be used together in a 4wd build? like could i use a makerx dv6 at one end and a stormcore 60D+ at the other?
Yes, as long as all of them are running the same VERSION of firmware, even if a different hardware.
So a FOCBOX 1.6 and a Unity and a VESC 6 Mk5 could all work together if, for example, all 3 of them had version 5.2 firmware, but each with their different hardware build.
But do keep in mind it sends the requested current over the CANBUS, not the requested throttle percentage. It may be a good idea to use the ESC with the highest set motor maximum (& minimum) current as the master ESC on the CANBUS.
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Omg. This could so easily be modified into a ballsack
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Esk8 truck nuts
Make the loopkey itself the ballsack.
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For a dual loopkey setup each key can be a testicle
If I wanna build a one wheel (for someone else)
Where is the place to look
Where can I find info online? Anyone got tips
Search for “funwheel” and not Onewheel
Also here:
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Your the best 
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Just got my awesome tyres. So i had to test them on my hubs.
They fit. But now i can’t get the hub halves out/separated from the tyre. Its REALLY stuck in there.
Is there some trick?
Edit: I managed to get some soap between the hubs and tire, and got them separated. 
I have a baseplate from which I need to remove the kingpin. A few moderate taps from a hammer wasn’t enough to get it moving. Would it help to put it into the freezer for a few hours?
I’ve never tried this, but likely, no.
Aluminum (22 *10-6 m/(m °C)) has roughly twice the thermal expansion coefficient to steel (11 *10-6 m/(m °C)). Meaning aluminum will get longer/larger than steel when both are heated, and shorter/smaller than steel when cooled. You’d likely tighten it up more by putting it in the freezer.
Instead, heat the baseplate up with a torch or heatgun. Maybe even just put the whole (cleaned) assembly in the oven at 150C for 30 minutes (without bushings) and try it again.
Ref: Aluminium vs steel contraction when frozen | Endless Sphere DIY EV Forum
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Thanks! Will give it a try tomorrow
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Oh smart, would it also make sense to freeze the whole thing and then torch the baseplate? I’m just thinking because I don’t have easy access to an oven I’d be comfortable putting anodised or painted metal in even if it was clean, but in a bag in the freezer and then hit with a torch is manageable
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It’s unlikely that you’d be able to heat up the outer part fast enough that the steel inner piece would remain cold.
Relying on the different thermal expansion rates is probably your best bet, rather than trying to get differential expansion by differential heating.
In that case, freezing the whole thing first just means the torch has to do more work.
(It CAN be done, shrink-fit CNC tooling works this way, but they generally use multi-kilowatt induction heaters that can heat the toolholder in literal seconds.)
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Ah great thanks, yeah that makes more sense
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Hey, sorry if this has been answered before but i couldn’t find it by searching.
I want to build a pretty underpowered setup on a Landyachtz Obsidian and Loaded hubs so I can downhill with brakes. I’d go 12S, which tops out at 50 kmh ish.
My question is, what would happen when I brake at >100% duty? Like when I’m going downhill at 60 kmh or so without electric power and want to slow down, would my VESC/battery fry by braking?
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brakes actually take more equipment
For example, a single 6355 is enough to go, but it’s lacking in the stop department. Of course it’s enough, but it’s weak as shit.