This is very bad and you don’t want to do this. In fact, the motor probably won’t allow you to go that fast unless you edit some settings in terrible ways, which would also cut your brakes.
Gear your setup for like 100km/h
I don’t know if it’s true in VESC, but Hobbywing ESCs absolutely would let you go over 100% duty when coasting. In fact if you press on the accelerator you actually slow down to 100%. Shouldn’t the max eRPMs and maximum voltage be the main limiting factor here?
I was just referring specifically to VESC firmware.
There are many other ways to do it.
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Ah shit okay, thanks for the feedback. Its probably not worth pursuing then.
I’m still curious what would happen when braking at >100% duty though. Maybe the VESC just doesnt repond to inputs at higher duties, but Vedder must’ve thought of something.
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All I can say is that I would not like to test it while riding the device under test.
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So I use a stormcore 60D+(if that matters) and in the app and in the logging, it seems to only record the ride specs for one motor so the amp/wh/distance/speed are sourced from just one motor instead of both. Is there a way to merge them together or is this just the way it is?
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Can you test motor sensors without plugging in the phase wires?
Yes. Connect ground and 5V and watch the three hall sensors on an oscilloscope while you turn the motor by hand.
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I’ve been at 95% duty cycle, hit a downhill, let off the throttle and speed up past 100% duty. I gently applied the brakes and while they are slightly stronger than usual, there was no issue. This was on the 5.3 FW.
I think there would be an issue when the motor spins up fast enough to go over 60v (12s battery & esc) and you hit the brakes, but I haven’t tested that.
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Hey all. I’m looking for alternatives to a 3/4 inch cable gland for water resistant routing of some mr60’s through my enclosure. The glands are functional but bulky. Any other good options? I do not want to mount them to the enclosure. TIA
Panel mounted passthroughs are my preference.
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These are confusing requirements.
Without mounting the MR60 to the enclosure, you would be left with only the option of mounting the wires to the enclosure or doing the horrific “lay the wires on the foam and pray” method which is still in a sense mounting the wires to the enclosure, just in a different fashion.
What is the exact thing you wish to avoid? Drilling/cutting the enclosure?
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I’m routing the wires through the enclosure using a gland presently. 3/4" as the below pic
It’s bulky though and I’m wondering if anyone knows of something a little more low profile that would allow me to route an mr60 (i.e. a hole that’s at least 18mm wide) that provides water proofing and will take up less space in the enclosure.
Use a pair of mr60/ like a pass through?
Don’t use a gland.
Just epoxy and colloidal silica to thicken it.
Drill hole and file to shape.
Hot glue and nbone dide to hold in place.
Epoxy other side.
Rip off hot glue with pliers.
Epoxy that side.
Done.
Some pics here, NightTrain | 4WD 6355 BNM1s on Steel BN270s | 10s9p p26A DV4s | Hummie deck this has bullets inside and mr60 outside. Waterproofed to enclosure so either side can be easily unplugged.
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It’s nice and tidy but I don’t want to panel mount. Appreciate that it’s the choice for most w mr60 but it’s not gonna work w my build. I’ll diy something rubber sheet, contact cement, a hope and a prayer 
Thx All for the input 
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Heated them up with a lighter and managed to hammer them out, thanks!
I swapped in a longer kingpin instead
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Epoxy.
Just epoxy the wires through instead of the connector.
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Why? If you explain that, someone might be able to suggest a more suitable option
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Well, I could make it work by extending the phase wires on the motor but I just spent like a hr soldering longer phase wires from the pcb of the Xenith so I could avoid adding more resistance in the phase circuit and so the mr60s out of the controller sat further outside of the enclosure. I could’ve mounted the mr60s and extended the motor wires easily enough.