You know if it’s any good
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personally have not use that one before, but u need a latching switch for that
“official” claim: 12s 100a
but u know how the math work
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Thanks
Anyone know what is considered a reliable anti spark these days
Maybe 100 real amps
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Whenever I ask this the main answer I get is “Amass XT90s”
And if it’s well over 100A then I guess Amass AS150
Reliable?
How about a loopkey for $10?
Fancy?
Now you’re talking about active electronics and added cost and maybe increased failure rates
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Yes I am a huge fan of that. It’s very well done.
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I have a solution if u stay less than 18s, but it’s fucking massive
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Let’s hear
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300a tho dang lol
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Never fully trust numbers coming from folks who profit from sales
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Unless it’s a “number of motors” specification 
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True dat.
Damn, its bigger than an esc
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OK, Playing the role of a beginner again >.<!
I just got press fit inner bearing pulleys, and just figured out that my caliber 50 axles are 35mm i.e. too short. [I know of; file the truck, remove the bearing. But I want the bearing to be there.]
My question is: If I cheap out and only purchase one extended axle truck for the rear how badly would that effect board geometry?
ty for reading.
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As long as you make sure you don’t get wheelbite on the narrower front truck you should be fine. Brian did it and I think I’ve seen others too, build thread here
I’m just going to put search terms here in case someone’s looking for it in future: mismatched truck mismatched hanger different hangers width
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Yes, it would affect it. It will look worse but perform better. 
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It’s horrible I love it, Looks like a wedge of cheese, [jokes aside it does look OK, good in some abstract sense i.e. I think it looks good]
Thanks guys!
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It also makes me itchy, but I’ve had the same thought. My poor filed down calibers wish I’d gone with that option, as does the hand file who suffered through it
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