Your next move should be to change out that shiity eovan ESC lol XD edit( nevermind i see that is done) 
newbee hubs are pretty sick and good value btw
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Please someone let me know when it’s really safe to go to 6 
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Actually not quite, this is from my mountainboard with a stormcore. My shitty eovan ESC is still in my eovan which is actually currently with @haven (he’s borrowing it till he can get his board back and running)
For fuckin real dude.
Now onto the shop update:
I’m getting real used to saying it; it turns out I’m an idiot.
During my troubleshooting with these sensors I ended up swapping phase wires and vesc sides to attempt to further track down the issue, in doing so I confused myself with which side I had an issue on. I’m pretty sure that all of my recent sensor diagnostic work was done on a fully functioning sensor.
I repinned the other side one more time and la-di-fuckin-da:
Jesus fuck I’m way too dumb to be working on these things myself and way too poor to pay somebody else to do it.
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has been flawless on both of my 100dx
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Are these from LaCroix pre builts or did you just buy the SC itself?
1 in a diy and the other that replaced my original 100d in my lonestar
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@MichaelWA, @haven and i recently had another mini build day, good times.
Here’s what I got done:
Put some mt60s on the motors I intend to use.
(I’m guessing it makes more sense to put the male side on the motors but I can’t think of any potential issues going either way)
Borrowed @haven’s Dremel and got the last stripped screw out of the motor so it’s loose from the mount.
Removed the unnecessary 10awg phase wires and had the opportunity to use my fancy new solder sucker (how the fuck did I go this long without one?) I’m planning to replace those with 12awg terminated with the female mt60
Now here’s the part where I ask for advice:
-
Any suggestions to better insulate/protect the flipshit? I have mg chemicals 419D on hand but I’m honestly not even sure if that’s the proper use case.
It’s hard to see but it doesn’t look like these pulleys even use set screws, or if they do it seems there’s some kind of resin on top of the screw head. What would be the best way to get that taken off? Drill press and caution not to drill into the shaft?
- Any creative ideas as to mounting the flipshit? My current inspiration is mistfall built by @BenjaminF however my battery case is mounted with the hinge on the side of the deck so I’ll have to figure that out.
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Let’s talk about that Eovan
Summary
Its a GTS Carbon Super that I received in April of 2022. It was my first (real) esk8 and put me on a path to meet some real awesome people.
Since then I’ve put just over 1800 miles on it and it’s been surprisingly reliable aside from the remote… Their $100 takes a month to get to you, fragile piece of shit remote has always been a thorn in my side. Recently my partner dropped the remote from about 3 feet off the ground and it began disconnecting every 10sec-5min.
Fuck all that noise, lets put a DV4S in it
I wanted to reuse the original heatsink since it’s made to fit already and saves me a bit of money. Getting the eovan “VESC” out was a bit of a pain as expected and took a bit of angle grinding, a Dremel, palm sander, hand file, and so many Dremel sandpaper drums but I got it to a point I’m pretty happy with.
Mounting the receiver:
I ended up reusing the receiver “enclosure” thingy from the eovan but instead of potting the whole receiver in there like it was from factory I put a little bit of neoprene padding on top of the baseplate and sandwiched the receiver between the neoprene and rubber (also I needed to add washers on top because the built in washers were laid into the rubber and broke off real quick)
There was some crimping and soldering so I could adapt from these fuckers:
To these fuckers:
It took some playing around with axle spacers to get stuff properly mounted but I’m really happy with the fitment against the motor mount
The wiring, is gonna be a tad bit weird.
I had to figure out a way to connect to the positive of my battery for the VX4 as well as to extend the battery connector so I think I’m just going to make an XT60 extension with 2 12ga wires and a 26ga wire coming from the positive to the usplit that I’m using for my receiver, this board is basically going to have a wiring harness lmao.
Now I’m just waiting for XT60s and a shorter power button which are both in the mail
Once I have all of the parts the only things left to do are:
Finish making that wiring harness
Use thermal adhesive to mount the VESC
Regrip the deck
Mount the power switch
Run detection and configure the switch properly
Go zoom.
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taking the “pre” out of prebuilt! love to see it
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I got the wiring harness setup and for those of you like me who are visual learners and can’t picture a description like this unless you already have an idea in your head
This is what I was talking about
I got the longer power button mounted as a stand in for the shorter button, I’m not very happy with how that came out.
I’m confident it’ll hold just fine but it’s ugly… Really ugly.
I’m feeling this hard right now 
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In my head I’m singing.
Tiny steps…
Tiny steps.
A million, trillion tiny steps…
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I got the VESC secured to the heat sink!
So much filing and sanding
Now everything is plugged in and ready to run detection (except power) but I’ve been working on this all day and if detection doesn’t go exactly the way I want it to (it never does) I think I’ll simply break down and cry so I’m going to leave that struggle for tomorrow.
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YEAHHHHHHH BOIIIIIIIIIIIII
This has been the first time I’ve ever gotten through the VESC tool part without a hiccup
I put vicious grip on it, and it rides like goddamn butter.
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So it was an entire fuckin adventure trying to get everything setup with PPM+UART, so let’s go through the list of different symptoms I had to diagnose and fix in an attempt to get some damn telemetry
1: PWM mapping decided to be non-existent no matter what I did,(power cycle, different cables, over Bluetooth etc) and the only possible fix was leaving it alone overnight for it to suddenly work in the morning
2: the same “leaving it alone” unfortunately caused either side of my vesc to stop communicating with each other and I had to flash bootloader and redo firmware.
3: my switch configuration doesn’t like to stick so I have to redo those settings every time I use VESC tool
4: my vesc decided to also forget the switch configuration directly after closing up the enclosure and sealing it with butyl tape.
DIY is a disease
I got there eventually and now I have telemetry and stuff anyways look how cool my board is.
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Every time I try and work on my board or document anything on here, I’m given a new level of respect for @rafaelinmissouri 's dedication to consistency. It’s impressive.
Now what did I do this time?
I’ve been snip snapping belts on my MTB since I built it, there’s only so much you can do with idlers and tension before you’re running through belts every 100-200 miles especially with low ish gearing and being a slut for heavy acceleration.
So @haven offered me a set of BN M1-AT drives that were only missing a wheel adapter to get running, awesome! However, my flipsky motors were missing some of the shims under the C clip on the shaft that allowed for a bit of lateral play in the motor,
I didn’t want to risk exacerbating that issue with helical side loading forces and shit.
So they sat.
Until eventually BN came out with new straight cuts! Awesome let’s buy those and I can get things going… But these flipsky motors have been overheating a lot in warm weather, it’d be nice to get reachers, but if I get reachers I want to still be able to use these flipskys in the future without having to deal with cut shafts.
So they sat.
Until I got reachers, and put them on only to learn that the extra contact patch on the new pinions causes alignment issues with reachers unless you have something like the spacers from @Ac53n so let me get those.
So they sat.
Until the spacers arrived and I could actually start putting things together, I still ran into a few things like:
One of my hangar adapters was wobbly, I fixed that with just a layer of duct tape on the hangar, I’ll replace that with gorilla tape if it doesn’t hold up.
All available positions to set the gear drive in were awful, way too high up and hitting the deck or sitting 2mm away from the ground, that was fixable just by flipping the hangar but I’m not sure if the hangar geometry is symmetrical, I might’ve changed something in the truck geometry doing that but it hasn’t felt off at all.
I needed specific spacing between the gear drives and wheels because the included spacers left no room for a nut at the end so I grabbed some random assorted 12mm shims which seemed to do the trick.
I packed it with red n tacky grease which seems to be the overall go-to.
Took a page out of @BenjaminF 's book and set the backlash very tight to avoid the clickity clackity noises.
I’m sad that I can’t easily lean it against the wall anymore since the wheels touch the ground before any stationary part of the board does, that’s something I gotta figure out.
I wanted to be able to shape the wires and have them stay in place but the only wires that do that aren’t great for esk8 so I took some baling wire and put it in the cable sleeving along with my phase/sensorwires so they’re kept in place, that seems to work pretty well.
First ride impressions;
I don’t have too much experience with the new gears since weather has made it pretty difficult to get out and ride but so far they feel great, somewhere around here I read somebody say that reachers feel like they deliver power more smoothly than flipskys and I didn’t really understand what they meant till I rode my own, they definitely feel really smooth. I’m not used to gears so I’m still scared that I set something up wrong and I’ll suddenly lock up once I start to get comfortable but so far everything seems to be working well.
Until next time. (Probably in several months)
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Recently after my partner took the eovan DIY on a particularly wet ride it began behaving kinda weird, giving broken potentiometer symptoms. I’m hoping that it’s just the VX4 or receiver but after opening the enclosure this isn’t very encouraging.
There’s a pretty small amount of moisture on top of the ESC.
I think my next step is to test this DV4S with a Puck to see if the symptoms persist. And this time apply some silicone around the heat sink. Wish me luck gentlemen.
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Pretty sure I found the issue, tested with a puck and all seems well, I definitely need to find a better way to waterproof the receiver.
Previously I was just reusing the rubber piece that the old receiver was enclosed in and didn’t really do anything at the water ingress points to mitigate that issue, go figure.
So this is what my receiver “enclosure” looks like, I have a couple ideas on how I could waterproof a bit with silicone sealant
https://a.co/d/dSZMvpp
^this stuff
Method A seems like it would be more water-resistant but I’d be losing ease of repair/maintenance
Method B seems like it may be less water-resistant but would allow for easier repair/maintenance.
- A: enclose the receiver in silicone
- B: silicone sealant around the edges
- C: both options suck why wouldn’t you just do ___________
0 voters
Sidenote: is it possible to buy a VX4 receiver separately or are they paired to each remote specifically?
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Yeah, both options sucked.
I tried some random fuckery to try and make stuff work but it ended up stressing the wires to leave me with this:
I ended up trying out @SBS 's 3DP Puck receiver enclosure on thingiverse:
Unfortunately it just so happens to be made for a puck receiver not a VX4, back to the drawing board.
I used his version of the box as inspiration and made it in the dimensions I needed for the VX4 receiver. As well as making it a bit thicker and adding the screw holes in the base (yes I can tell the screws don’t actually have enough room for any kind of head, I need to fix that)
Installed with a bit of Butyl tape around the lid and silicone sealant around the other problem areas.
So far so good.
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One of my foot pads started peeling up a while back and I decided today was a good rainy day to take care of that.
All that plant matter was caught between the adhesive on the shock pads and the deck itself, a bit of cleaning was in order so I used a brush, shop vac, rags, and isopropyl alcohol to clean the deck. Reapplied grip
Unfortunately these shock pads are just barely bigger than 1/2 sheet of viscous grip so you can use a full sheet for either foot pad or use half a sheet on each and leave a tiny bit of space left over. I went with the latter.
Threw the bindings on and we’re ready to ride!
Yesterday was another one of pnwesk8’s build days and I was able to use their sanding disk to grind some axle spacers to length
They came out much better than last time fortunately.
That’s all for now folks.
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Aww shit,
I think that 12s4p Panasonic battery from my eovan finally died today, it’s made it 2000+miles for what it’s worth but today the range from full charge was about 3-5 miles, I can’t confirm yet that it’s dead and haven’t had time for diagnosis yet but last I rode it I was getting closer to 12-15 miles out of it, which isn’t great but certainly still works.
On the upside this means I can finally start doing some upgrades I’ve had planned for a while.
Any diagnostic I can do on the battery before confirming it as dead? Or should I (clearly not a battery builder) just leave the battery alone and consider it dead?
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