I guess I’d pull the insulation and see if there’s any obvious failure points…
RIP 
going to replace the battery and reuse the deck you think? or go a diff direction?
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I’m thinking a hummie deck is on the horizon.
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Holy fuckin shit I haven’t been this excited about putting something on my board in a very long time. My experience with metr products has always been utterly top notch and my expectations were incredibly high, still I was blown away.
Setting this up was an absolute joy, it’s always great when, during a setup process like this, any question you could possibly have has already been answered at length with pictures and everything.
Mini update on the eovan:
Hummie deck showed up, enclosure from @eBoosted should be done early next week, battery is ordered but can’t really be started until the enclosure arrives.
I’m still thinking about whether or not to do inserts myself, I’ve never done any and I’d hate to fuck up this beautiful deck.
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let’s tackle inserts together at next build day 
having the same dilemma for my omakase…
WE CAN DO ITTT
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Got some RTKP’s with custom gear drive adapters, but didn’t quite fit. Close but not quite.
Unfortunately not that close.
There was a lot of sanding and filing, not very pleasant.
Eventually I got them all the way on there
These trucks are absolutely gorgeous, and I’m really excited to experiment with bushings.
I’m currently running
85a hpf on the front primary kingpin
90a hpf on the rear primary kingpin
93a krank on both supporting kingpins
This is probably gonna feel a bit jank until I can dial it in, I don’t even know where to start with these so I’ll just mess around till I find something that feels good, such is the process with bushings.
Just finished routing wires.
Now I get to wait for a break in the weather…
This is where I’m at with this board
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Rtkp profile should be 22x22 right? Was it slightly larger than that, or were the adapters smaller than expected?
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I found the tolerances of my hanger to be a little inconsistent. One fit well, and the other one didjt fit at all on my set
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One was very very close and only needed a tiny bit of filling on each face, the other side needed a good bit more. I suspect it’s just the tolerances like Evan said.
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How does the Hummie deck compare in size to the Eovan?
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Very very similar, it looks like the drop is slightly deeper on the hummie, and of course the eovan has pronounced foot pads while the hummie deck has a flat edge along the side. But other than those it’s very very close.
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can I trouble you for a picture of the Hummie right next to it at the same height, i usually put some wheels or a case of soda under it…
did you like the flares?
i think I prefer flatter concave profiles.
I really need to step on a Hummie some day.
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Is this what you were looking for?
Well, the eovan has a w concave that I’m not the biggest fan of, the edges are a bit sharper while the center bump is almost non existent, it’s okay for aggressive riding but fatigues my feet pretty quickly. The hummie deck feels like a more subtle radial concave that I’m hoping (along with the less ridged deck) will alleviate some of the foot fatigue on this board.
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Perfect. And yep. Real estate wise they are very similar.
Do you think you could try to run your trucks dropped through?
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I’ll certainly try
Based on eyeball estimates I should hopefully be able to, I haven’t had the time to mount things and check though.
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Quick update on running drop through:
Whoever said that must be terrible at eyeballing it, or must’ve only considered wheel bite when eyeballing clearances or something.
Anyways,
There’s not really enough room for activities between the deck and hangar, here are my options
1: SR adjustables, they’re taller than stock savage baseplates, however I’ve just not seen others have very good luck with them and I have a hard time trusting them
2: ignore any of the safety recommendations I’ve been given from Members of this forum including the designer of the deck itself and route out the deck so the savage baseplate sits flush with the deck, this is kinda tempting just for the sleek and clean look but would compromise the safety of a board I’m primarily building for my partner whom I kinda like, so that’s a hard no.
3: as per hummie’s suggestion, route wells into the bottom of the deck to give space for articulation. Possibly reinforce with carbon fiber. This seems like a solid solution but I’m a bit intimidated by the idea of learning to work with CF if reinforcement is needed.
4: as per AC53N’s suggestion, chop the deck and use idea brackets, this would be incredibly cool, allow for some additional adjustability, solve my clearance problems, and maintain everything I really like about the deck. But I’m hesitant for a few reasons. The hummie deck certainly wasn’t designed to be used with brackets like the idea one is, the brackets add cost, and it definitely feels sacrilegious to chop up a deck this gorgeous.
I’m mostly leaning towards option 3. But would love to hear other opinions, as long as they’re not wrong.
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I would router out the top and sink the baseplate in. I’d just make sure I added some reinforcement to the fukkered with area. Pretty sure @PedroMcJimenez did this with great success to his TB40 that gets ridden harder and longer than @BillGordon at a swingers party
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The Perils of Diy…
Why can’t we ever just take the easy route…
It’s about time for some housekeeping on the The Hummieovan
To do:
-simplify the absolute connector spaghetti that’s going on, reattempt sensors with MR30s inspired by Mistfall
-install metr (should’ve done this in the first place honestly)
-Fix belt rubbing (the alignment is okay, I just only have 1 flange between my motor and wheel pulley, under hard turning the belt will rub on the tire due to sidewall deformation, double flange pullies have been ordered from dickyho)
Massive thanks to @BenjaminF for all the advice on how to use MR30s for sensors, spoilers: a lot of strain relief is needed.
Here’s the method that Has-Ben described to me
1: start by crimping JST pins onto the wire you’re going to solder, the JST pin itself isn’t needed but the collar that grabs the insulation on the wire is important for strain relief.
2: if necessary, trim down the tip of the connector and press down the tab on the bottom so it can fit neatly inside the solder cups of the MR30
Trimmed in white vs untrimmed in blue
3: add 2 layers of heat shrink (I don’t believe he specifically mentioned glue lined but that’s what I’m using, y’know, for strain relief)
4: add silicone inside the cable shroud for the MR30s. No I will not explain my reasoning. Yes this will be on the test.
Now that I have that written down for posterior or whatever. Back to the to do list:
The connector spaghetti in question:
I’ve got fake MR69 connectors going into GX12 and mt60 connectors with an extension and and and.
A lot of it does kinda have to stay but I think I’m ready to let go of these knockoff mr69s, they’re a really cool idea but in this scenario they only serve to complicate things really.
Clipping these will at least eliminate a bit of the unnecessary complication.
Guys hold on, Ramen break:
Okay cool now onto soldering.
Once again I’m reminded that I’m not very good at soldering small stuff.
Since these wires are awful, I’m doing quite a bit to minimize any strain on the wires.
1: JST connectors
2: double up heat shrink + I’m using glue lined
3: silicone inside the shroud
(I didn’t get a picture of this but you just put a thin layer between the wire and the shroud, then putting on the shroud will get the excess to come out.)
4: Another layer of glue lined heat shrink around each set of 3 wires then filled with silicone
5: final layer of heat shrink+silicone to protect the poorly insulated wire
That better be enough strain relief, I’m sick of tiny sensor wires.
Unfortunately I did have to cut off that last bit of heat shrink and silicone to get the wires through the holes in the savage hangar, otherwise the wires would’ve been at uncomfortable angles. Instead I’m gonna take a page out of @MichaelWA’s book and silicone the living shit out of it.
I entirely forgot to take pictures from installing the metr but I decided to cut out some of the gasket since it’s about the same height as the case for the metr module,
I cut out the part marked in red, and plugged everything in.
Mounted the GPS on the rear baseplate with 3m mounting tape since I had a few issues with signal when it was in the enclosure on my MTB (and of course some more silicone for waterproofing the GPS)
And of course since I’m a pRofESsiOnal:
Rubber bands and zip ties to keep the wires in place (with a bit of wiggle room)
Did a short test ride before applying the last bits of silicone and was reminded how fuckin awful VSS is compared to sensors.
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Silicone 
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This part went okay but again, it ended up like this:
I’m gonna try a third time to get some decent wire routing.
Starting with adding length to the phase wires so I can eliminate another unnecessary connection point.
Before:
After:
Next, I think I’m going to run them out the sides in a channel rather than out the back squished by the enclosure, it should give them more room to articulate away from the ground.
Like this:
Since I’m trying to keep everything flat against the gasket now I also need to cut a wire channel for the metr GPS, and of course, more silicone.
The channel was a bit bigger than necessary but I think the silicone should solve any issues the oversized channel would normally cause.
Now onto the sensors.
Same idea as before, obviously still inspired, nay impelled by mistfall from @BenjaminF
Same plan as before to go absolutely buck wild on the strain relief.
JST connectors:
Clipped and soldered:
Now, @BenjaminF recommends using 2 layers of heat shrink under the shroud, my 24awg wire+doubled up heat shrink won’t fit through the shroud, I’m sacrificing the second layer of heat shrink in favor of silicone+being able to fit the cable shroud.
Just the single layer of heat shrink is already pretty tight.
With silicone and cable shroud:
Next up is the pulley issue, for context; the pullies that are currently on there are installed by the factory and for some reason they use some kinda epoxy in the head for the grub screws so they can’t be removed without drilling, so drilling it is.
Unfortunately, as a certified dummy, I didn’t actually measure my motor shaft, I measured the flat spot and just assumed it was an 8mm shaft. That was silly.
Since I had to drill out the grub screws to get the pullies off, I can’t really reuse those unless I tap new threads and I personally, can’t be bothered to do all that.
Instead I’ll steal them from my Spare parts board
The pullies on my spare parts board had the same issue but I got somebody from a local machine shop to drill out and tap those with slightly bigger threads. Those can actually be removed and installed with an Allen key and some loctite, this way once the new pullies arrive I can install them much easier.
Still gotta wait another like 2 weeks for those pullies though.
Sadly motor detection keeps timing out even with sensors disconnected. I suspect I may have messed up when soldering new wires to the PCB on the DV4S?
Most of them look good to me (despite the silicone, probably should’ve used the MG chemicals 419D I had instead) but I’d really appreciate a second opinion.
I wasn’t able to remove all the silicone in the time I have to work on this today but is there anything visibly wrong with these solder joints that could cause motor detection to time out?
A couple other weird marks/spots on the PCB:
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