The Hummieovan - 12S5P P42A, DV4S savage DKP

Originally, this was going to be a post in my shop thread where I’ve posted the majority of my Eovan’s upgrades and fixes throughout it’s lifetime.

However, after a long discussion with internal affairs (the voices in my head) I’ve decided to make a dedicated build thread for…

The hummieovan!

Parts list

Hummie deck + eboosted MS enclosure

12s5p P42A battery built by @Pecos

Savage 1 TKP + @Razillian dkp additional pivot points.

Stock Eovan 6374 motors

makerX DV4S+infinitysink

VX4

Cst 190mm tires

Hubba hubs

First off, I think I’ve made a solution to my hummie battery not quite fitting in the enclosure.

I grabbed a couple epdm rubber sheets and cut one to size with a razor blade.

Normally I’ll use strips of foam, but with the need to add height that won’t compress, I decided on rubber. And looking online I realized it wasn’t prohibitively expensive to buy flat sheets of rubber or foam and cut a gasket, so cut a gasket I did.


Now I have a spacer/riser/gasket which is awesome next step is inserts which was scary but came out… Functional. Here’s a pic of the inserts while the contact cement for the riser drys


Relatively even in position but admittedly there were a few noob mistakes made:

Overall I’m okay with it, all the ugly should be covered by the enclosure and gasket but a couple of the inserts are off enough in angle that I think they’re putting a bit of pressure on the enclosure when tightened. That might need to be dealt with later… Somehow.

I used some smaller diameter screws to line up the spacer (I think m4 or m5, just what I had laying around) as well as clamps to help the gasket conform to the deck.

Since this rubber is pretty hard and is primarily there to add height I figured a thin layer of neoprene foam would help with conforming around the enclosure and waterproofing.
I got a bit overzealous cutting the foam and made a few mistakes there as well but I don’t think it’s anything that’ll severely harm the water resistance.

About routing wires, I’m considering either trying to cut/drill holes in the enclosure for GX12 and mt60 connectors but I’m concerned with how I’d get the connectors to sit parallel to the ground, just drilling a hole would leave the connectors angled towards the ground like this:

Or I could just let the enclosure push the wires into the foam.
I had to order some 12awg for phase wires since I didn’t have enough left for what I need. I think before I go cutting out more of this enclosure I’ll try making some extensions for phase and sensor wires(which may end up being sacrificial) lay them on the foam and see if they get damaged being crushed by the enclosure.
Like this:

Admittedly, I underestimated how difficult those little bastards would be to solder

Those came out really ugly.
They’re functional, strong enough, and pretty well insulated from each other, just so damn ugly.

These came out alright though

I fucked up one of the mt60s as well the first time around so I had to cut those wires back on one side, it’ll look a bit jank but shouldn’t hurt anything.

I also soldered up the charge port and adapter for the other side.


(I like XT60s on all my chargers to make them adaptable to whatever board I wanna charge)

Next I just need to mount the heat sink,
Kinda following @ApproachCautiously 's method:

However, instead of…

I left maybe 1.2-0.5mm extra since I just injured my shoulder and didn’t wanna spend hours with a file.


I think it came out pretty alright

Charge port came out pretty good as well.

I got a bit overzealous drilling out the power button, that might be an opportunity to learn to work with fiberglass/resin though, for now I’ll seal it up with some silicone.
Detection seemed to go well. (Although I pretty much immediately gave up on sensors, I’ve done so much sensor troubleshooting, I’m not getting into that right before carve lol)

I also realized quickly that my squishing of wires wasn’t going to work if I want the enclosure to properly close/seal so I haphazardly applied neoprene foam tape for insulation/height in hopes of getting this board rideable before SEA carve.

Also some padding for the battery.

Also one of the enclosure holes is off center enough that it’s digging into the enclosure, Dremel activity should fix that…




Not great but we’re going for functional here.

Last pic of the insides before closing it all up

Beautification can wait till I put it off for several hundred miles and inevitably decide against trying to make it pretty due to how much damage it’s taken from riding. (See enclosure/heat sink after ride #1)




First impressions: I absolutely love this truck setup it’s super carvy, I might even attempt the @tuckjohn parking space U-turn challenge once I’m a tad bit more comfortable on the board. Not sure about range or top speed yet, I’ve only ridden it about 2-5 miles so far.

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Neat to see someone else using those DKP adapters! SR TKP is a surprisingly good geometry to use for DKP.

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Well done! This looks like a great all-around board.

Curious about the truck setup. If you notice someone eyeballing it at Carve SEA, that’ll be me. Looking forward to seeing it up close.

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I knew I’d enjoy this truck setup but holy shit I’m in love, I can’t wait to play around with bushings a bit more.

Thank you! I’m actually pretty proud of this build, I think I’ve come pretty far from whatever this was :sweat_smile:

You’re more than welcome to ride it if you’d like. It’s a fun one

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Not gonna lie, my current build, split decision, was originally gonna use the raz dkp adapters with the IDEA TKP hangers, still have them actually but for now im running just the regular TKPs as they seem to give me enough turn still, might have to throw the dkp midplates on to see how it feels

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Nice build! I really vibe with getting it done under the impending deadline of a community event :rofl:

You’d be the first. Definitely want sensors for that :wink:

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I would say you did a good job with that heatsink hole and the other holes. Only thing you could add is some gaskets but that’s more of a water proofing method to be extra safe. I used the black version that is sold for use on engines

I used it for the heat sink, buttons, and connector holes. Then I just use clear silicone caulk on the larger surfaces to save money and time. The gasket stuff seems to make a smaller height seal from what I’ve seen in my own use but the seal is still strong.

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Thanks! I think so too.

Not sure I agree with you there but I appreciate it nonetheless.

I think the waterproofing is okay, There’s clear silicone on the heat sink, button/charge port, and wire exits.

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I always overdo my water proofing so if you’re comfortable with what you did then there is no reason to change it. My esk8 is my main form of transportation so I add a lot of extra layers of protection just to be extra safe. i don’t think other people need to do the same thing though

1 Like