@egtscs' shit show of a shop

That corrosion on the JST and power look like water ingress.

Did it get wet at any point?

3 Likes

Do you mean the 3 pin connector on the corner? It looks a lot more like a bad solder job to me

Edit: didn’t read the “power connector” part, yeah that one is corrosion. Water could do it if the protection was damaged, but IMO it’s more likely flux + humidity than meaningful amounts of water

4 Likes

Thinking back on it, it did get wet, you’re right.

After wiping it off and checking the PCB I thought I had gotten it all off with minimal causalities but I must’ve not been thorough enough. It could’ve been creeping up since then.

1 Like

That is what I am thinking too.

It doesn’t look like water sat on it for long, but it looks like it sat in a humid environment with water nearby.

I’m not really totally sure the actual reason on why it would be giving you problems other than water ≠ electronics

2 Likes

So, I took a break from the hummieovan for a bit and did some work on a charger of mine.

I had blown a fuse on the charger and had to replace it.
That took quite a bit of messing around and experimenting to get that fixed but I do believe it’s fixed now.




Admittedly it’s a pretty rough soldering job, but it looks like there’s another issue with the reading on the charger that I missed the first time around:
(I’m not drawing 6kw from a 110v 15a outlet FYI)

Back to the hummieovan:

Last update was an attempt to fix my wiring that may have damaged/revealed damage to my VESC

I did my best to clean everything up.


I’m still planning to swap VESCs for this board since it’s my partner’s commuter and I want to maximize reliability. I’ll swap the funky DV4S into my spare parts board then use the fully functional DV4S for the hummieovan.

To do that I’ll need to convert from bullet connectors to mt60s, I’m once again scared of soldering directly to a PCB so I’ll just use an extension this time.

After detection going properly with this VESC I decided to silicone my phase/sensor wiring in place and cover it with some cable sleeving

That’s all for now, next time I gotta:

button up the hummieovan enclosure and hopefully not touch it for a while (other than swapping pullies once they arrive)

Open my charger back up and check the contacts on the output.

Swap tires and investigate the weird noise coming from my gear drives on Boardy McBoardface

I swear these things are a never ending source of projects ESPECIALLY if you’re not very good at building them :sweat_smile:

2 Likes

Okay, after way too much fuckery with the motor wiring everything seems good, detection went… mostly okay?
At the beginning of detection where it makes noises kinda similar to HFI, these motors made a noticeably louder, more grindy noise. everything else seemed to go okay, detection values don’t look suspicious to me.
does “Temp Comp : False” mean that my temp sensors aren’t being recognized? the wire colors on these maytech motors is weird but I was under the impression the order wasn’t any different.

Anything else I should do, check, or test before trying remote input?

1 Like

Holy fuck that was a whole fiasco that I’m not really gonna get into but I think it’s for the best. My wire routing is finally in a place that I’m happy with, and it looks semi-decent.

I also believe I fixed my belt rubbing issue during turns with some double flange motor pullies and washers between the wheel and wheel pulley

Additionally, these maytech motors have proper phase wires and I’m a lot more confident pushing more motor current with these.

A couple anti sink plates are all that is left from the original pre built board.

3 Likes

I went through the calibration process with the contact at ningning on telegram and think ive got a decent system if it is just a calibration issue. Hit me up on telegram and ill forward all the deets or bring it to the next build day and ill bring the button i had to make for the interface. Its not hard but it is time consuming :grin: know you got other stuff your working on but I didn’t see this before

1 Like

I started this draft on 10/14/2024

A lot has happened since I last updated this thread, the main thing though was having a seizure which I can personally confirm is NOT radical, more info on that here:

I’m not allowed to drive for a while and will need some way to get around when it’s wet out.

Onto the focus of this project:

sddefault

Upgrades people, upgrades!

Trying to waterproof, refine and BMS-ify my spare parts board.

First I swapped out the L-faster trucks, wheels and pulleys in favor of Matrix 2s, rockstar 2s, and 62t pulleys which I really can’t remember where they came from.

Next big thing was wire routing, mine wasn’t deadly or immediately unsafe but just wasn’t very well thought out and had a lot of ways it could’ve failed, with a bunch of Tessa tape, zip ties, and cable management sleeves. It’s much improved, not great but improved.


But I still didn’t like it so I ripped it all off and tried again with a DIY footpad with a wire channel out of some spare (unnecessarily thick) rubber sheet and some contact cement.
I cut the sheet to size, secured the rubber with contact cement, routed the wires, secured the wires with some kapton tape and a bottle of isopropyl alcohol to press them down and filled the channel with silicone sealant.


The only grip tape I have on hand is vicious grip which I’d rather not use on any of my commuter boards. Till then my workmanship(or lack thereof) can be appreciated by all.

BMS-ifying my lipos has been a roller coaster, I’ve started setting up my wiring probably 10 different times and torn it down to restart every time.

First iteration:

But I didn’t like the way the balance leads on the lipos were kinda jank coming out of the pack so I tried to get them aligned as well as possible and covered them in silicone.

I got to this point with the BMS-ification before getting more upgrades! This time I got my hands on a brand new, top of the line, unobtanium, dead guy hamstring!

My clavicle is now secured to my shoulder which is indeed pretty fuckin radical.
I’m also in a sling which is substantially less radical so this is gonna sit in the drafts here for a WHILE.
200w (1)
Slowly getting back into it, 4 weeks post-op and I’ve been assembling small bits and pieces of this. I’ve continued on the battery, secured the balance wiring pretty well and covered it in fishpaper



I also got the series connector made and labeled.

Next I got the BMS wiring almost finished before realizing I don’t have any more XT60s, I could use an XT30 but with the frequency I’ll be plugging in and unplugging this, I’d rather use something like an XT60H to alleviate wire strain over repeated plugging and unplugging

BMS side/soldering:



Wire routing/charge port:

At the moment of truth, testing the BT connection and balance wiring:

As a white guy with long black hair who hasn’t shaven and occasionally even wears white T-shirts, I can confidently say:


Wooooooooo!

Quick note about the trucks+prototipo mounts:

These mounts secure with 2 fasteners per mount, 1 M6x10mm which acts as a grub screw on the hangar and 1 M8x25mm which threads into the M8 hole in the matrix 2s that was originally designed to hold the MBS handbrake system.


The holes for the M8 screws were drilled just a bit off from the actual screw hole.

After a bunch of filling and more Dremel activity, I was able to get the M8 screws to thread in properly.

You may be wondering what the hell I’m doing with bent L-brackets that were originally designed for holding furniture together. I’m making taillight mounts!



Originally I had planned to mount them pointing straight behind me before I realized that these lights are much too bright for that, I haven’t tested while moving yet but I suspect they’ll be plenty bright pointed towards the ground.

Now since this is already a massive wall of crazy person ramblings I’m going to post this now and plan to update in smaller, more cohesive posts in the future.

5 Likes


Fuck cohesion look at wires:


Look at light mounting:




Look at my footpads :wink: :



Look at my lack of space on M2 axles:


It’s still enough thread that I think low profile nuts+vibra-tite would work.

Just waiting on belts and pulleys now.

6 Likes

I really like those stomp/ riser pads, maybe I can 3d print them

2 Likes

You likely can, I still have and use a set of TPU 3DP apex footpads for wire routing on my other MTB. I think somebody else has also done something similar in a DIY project. I’ll see if I can find that

Here’s an example:

3 Likes

It’s been a while since Mcboardface has gotten much action, it was used pretty heavily during Carve SEA 2024, developed some clicking noises in the gear drives, and wasn’t ridden much after that primarily due to my shoulder surgery.

Now that my shoulder is healing up pretty well, I’ve started thinking about getting my MTB up and running again. The easiest way to do this would be to find the source of:
Screenshot_20250202-152330

But instead @dskate decided to put up a set of 4GS for a really good price, so instead:
FIX NOTHING ADD MORE SHINY STUFF


I also cut out a channel from the footpad for the Megan wires to run. Previously the wire was run through the binding. This process involved such caution and precision that I only stabbed myself twice!


I also switched to FW6.2 and SHFI since I was running HFI previously. I’d like to test ride it but outside looks like this:

And I have ethical concerns about combining shiny new parts and salt/de-icer.

9 Likes

Those 4gs drives looking clean :face_exhaling:

1 Like

This is always a better approach.

6 Likes

It’s nice having a beater this time of year…
If I had shinny Newbee drives I would not take them out on the salt either…

2 Likes

sHFI works pretty well for me vs regular HFI with barely any tuning. Start up is much smoother on slopes.

2 Likes

That’s good to know

1 Like