This morning i noticed that one of my motors doesn’t want to spin unloaded, just stutters a bit. It doesnt seem to affect it once moving. I assume some sort of hall sensor thing will be most likely?
Definitely hall sensor issue if the motor works when you manually spin it, maybe a wire broke? They’re pretty daintyily sized. Otherwise you’ll have to supply the hall sensors 5V and probe the individual halls by hand to check for a dead sensor.
I just set up my DV6 pro and got everything running, but after I adjust the throttle curve and upload to the vesc one of the motors doesnt respond to the remote anymore and I’ll have to run the motor and input wizards to make it work again.
Sounds like what happens to me if i try to change app settings over CAN. Try programming directly from the side of the esc that the remote is connected to
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Thanks! I’ll give it a shot
So I’m working on a bit of waterproofing on my partner’s board after the unfortunate loss of a VX4 receiver
But again, that’s a sidenote. My primary question is: how do I best protect this receiver “enclosure” from water ingress?
I went into a couple of my ideas here but I think both my methods are sub-par and I think I need some help from the professionals.
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@Skyart got some potentially dumb questions about your 6355 motors. The main one being if 55mm is the motor diameter or length. I’m running 6354 motors and don’t think I have the extra 2mm if they’re longer.
Also I’m using 190kv motors now but have no idea if the 205kv would be better or not. I only run a 12s battery if that matters
Most brushless motors use XY nomenclature for dimensions. X == diameter, Y == length. 6355 is a 63mm diameter and 55mm length.
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Motor kv relates to the RPM the motor spins at a given voltage, with the same 12s battery going from 190kv-205kv you’ll gain a small amount of top speed and lose a bit of torque similar to if you changed to about 7% more tall gearing.
Edit: also if you’re going from flipsky motors to reacher motors of a similar sizing, as long as you have the headroom in your battery/vesc, you should be able to increase the amps to make up for the decrease in torque and then some.
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Thank you for explaining it so well. I might be cutting it close with the extra millimeter but looks like I might be able to get away with it if the motor gear isn’t put too far down the motor axle
Sounds like I should just go with the 205kv then since I don’t need more torque and losing a bit shouldn’t matter that much to me
I’ve got some older maker x motors on there now but as far as I know they’re not battle hardened since I didn’t get a chance to do it before needing the full board to be put together and working. I don’t even use the full torque the motors could output currently, but figured the new ones would be better overall and then I could use the current motors on my other board so I can run a shorter hanger on it
I don’t really need new motors but I do need something that would be appropriate to ask for as a gift from my parents. Anything else I want but haven’t bought myself is not something I’d want them knowing about 
I said it was a potentially dumb question to begin with 
I’ve never used chat gpt to be honest and don’t have a subscription to it
well it’s free, so
some people can’t even use google, don’t expect they know
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My battery is not charging, when I plug it in the charger light stays green I am assuming it is due to the BMS being to cold. The Bms is only set for charging. I store it in my garage which is rather cold. I touch the BMS it is colder than ice.
Check the voltage with a meter at the charging port and on the charger, What is it at? What is your battery voltage normally?
If the pack/BMS were cold enough to stop charging then there could be condensation on the BMS now. Nothing can be done about that (except perhaps bagging the board before storing in a cold place) but I’d at least wait until the pack/BMS warms up before trying to charge.
Especially if the pack might be below 0°C as you can damage li-ion cells if you charge them at below freezing.
I got it slowly warmed up over 6 hours, but it still wont charge. I’m thinking about getting a new bms to swap out.
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Have you checked your pack voltage?