Good luck!
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What’s typical voltage for your pack? What cells are in it?
21700 p42a, typical should be 44.4v
So this is a 10s pack? 36v nominal but 44.4 max voltage? Or is it a 12s pack and 44.4 is the normal voltage?
If it is 10s it is likely just fully charged and the maz voltage is just reduced due to normal aging or possibly a little out of balance and one of the cell groups is maxed out and the bms is safety limiting charge current.
Take a second and go over this thread as it has a ton of useful info, otherwise you’ll keep giving everyone just less info than we need to help you fix your skate.
Not a dig, but seriously take a quick look as you keep not answering the questions with enough info and it is feeling kinda Sisyphean
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Just wondering, I just got myself a MBS Comp 95. And I was wondering do I have to use breaks that are official or are there cheaper alternatives to this
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Trying to get a VX4 working properly, battery is at ~49.4v (12s) and yet my remote continues to give me a battery warning and refuses to display a battery readout,
I just rechecked that my pin out is okay.
Vesc and remote are both set to 12s Li-ion, cutoffs are around 38v hard 40v soft.
Am I missing something perhaps?
Edit: ignore me my pin out was correct, I just suck at crimping male JST connectors. I soldered them and the problem is solved
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What is the best way to figure out which Bluetooth module (specifically the UART port pin readout/config.) will work with my ESC. I have a Maker DV4s on the way and I would like to order the right bluetooth module from Flipsky.
the more I look at this the more confused I am…
Is there a way to pin a thread to the top or is it just to save the link?
The only difference between the two up there is the wiring and connector size.
You’ll want to order the 4.12 one - you may have to re pin if the pinout doesn’t match the dv4s though. Also, the makerx one does work, it comes with a cable, ofc, to connect the male to males
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ok, can problems for me always
i made a can splice to wire up my 2 skp solo vescs with an ennoid xlite v3 and a megan but i always break shit. can anyone confirm my wiring, i am concerned about connecting all the 5v and gnd together as i don’t know which outputs are suppling voltage and which ones need voltage.
does this look correct, i have omitted the 5v and gnd aux from the second vesc because the interconnecting can cable is a 2pin input/output with a second 2pin 5v/gnd aux
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Are you sure tho? It looks like the JST concetor from flipsky has 7 pins and there are 8 pins on the Maker DV4s
Been looking at getting a vesc controller for my store bought ebike (Jupiter Defiant, has 48V brushless hub motor) so I can have some customization over the settings. Specifically been looking at this one: Makerbase VESC 75100 V2
What I’m worried about is setting it up with my ebike. I’ve taken apart my bike and the wiring should be no issue, but I don’t know the parameters of my motor or if it is geared or not. I know that it uses hall sensors and the voltage of the current controller is 48v with 20A and 40V shutoff, but I don’t know the number of poles or anything like that. What do I need to know to get it set up in the Vesc software? I’ve seen the Vesc software has an autodetect parameters thing but does that work for geared motors?
I don’t mind having to open up the motor, but I just want to make sure that I know what I need to for when I get the Vesc. Also if someone knows of any detailed instructions of getting a Vesc controller setup for an ebike that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
The pin out is the same, the tx/rx are flipped though. If yours are backwards. Remote won’t work, really easy to trial/error
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Like I said… The only difference is connector size and pins
Order the one that is the correct amount of pins
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You can put 7 pin in the 8 pin hole, just make sure it is aligned to the correct side (5v to 5v)
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Can i spray paint the top plate of my uBox with any paint, or do i need high temp or some other specific paint cause esc, or should i just leave it?
Looking at bioX and want to do something similar with my own.
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Should be fine as long as you don’t paint anything but the plate (take it off). You’ll lose all the silk screen so don’t plug something in wrong later 
even painted most heat sinks do fine and if it gets hot enough to overheat the top plate something else is drastically wrong
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Wondering how important an esc heatsink is and if I can get away without one. I am planning to mount a dv6 in a small pelicase, either with or without heatsink. Would prefer without as it’s easier, easier to work on, and will leave the case stronger and more weatherproof.
Re load on the esc, I’m running apex 6384s 170kv probably at 80-90 amps, 5.5:1 gear ratio, 8 inch wheels, and weigh about 110kg padded. Not riding crazy hard/fast by this forum’s standards, but it does get hot here in the Aussie summer, and I like long rides.
Could the esc heat affect receivers and Bt modules also in the case?
Sage advice welcome!
Hi all,
I have a separate thread about my (re)build here: Golf Skate Caddy - #73 by zero_ads
It’s for golf, but it’s basically a giant, super HEAVY mountainboard with a bracket for holding my clubs as well. So far, i have bveen able to convert everything and get it working, but now I need some VESC expert advice on dialing it in.
The problems:
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Seems to need help with low end torque (getting moving from still). If i am on any sort of incline, it struggles a LOT. The motors sort of “buck” but dont get the wheels moving.
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The brakes don’t ever fully STOP the board. i.e. even if I come to a stop on an incline or decline. Holding FULL brake only slows it down, but doesn’t fully stop it from rolling.
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Related to above… but, can I set it up in such a way that “neutral” on the hoyt sets FULL brake? That way, it will hold on hills while i am taking a shot?
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I need to decrease the upper end speed. It is WAYYYYYY faster than I need it to be.
Can someone point me in the right direction of things to try?
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