YEAHHHHHHH BOIIIIIIIIIIIII
This has been the first time I’ve ever gotten through the VESC tool part without a hiccup
I put vicious grip on it, and it rides like goddamn butter.
This has been the first time I’ve ever gotten through the VESC tool part without a hiccup
I put vicious grip on it, and it rides like goddamn butter.
9 Likes
So it was an entire fuckin adventure trying to get everything setup with PPM+UART, so let’s go through the list of different symptoms I had to diagnose and fix in an attempt to get some damn telemetry
1: PWM mapping decided to be non-existent no matter what I did,(power cycle, different cables, over Bluetooth etc) and the only possible fix was leaving it alone overnight for it to suddenly work in the morning
2: the same “leaving it alone” unfortunately caused either side of my vesc to stop communicating with each other and I had to flash bootloader and redo firmware.
3: my switch configuration doesn’t like to stick so I have to redo those settings every time I use VESC tool
4: my vesc decided to also forget the switch configuration directly after closing up the enclosure and sealing it with butyl tape.
DIY is a disease
I got there eventually and now I have telemetry and stuff anyways look how cool my board is.
7 Likes
Every time I try and work on my board or document anything on here, I’m given a new level of respect for @rafaelinmissouri 's dedication to consistency. It’s impressive.
Now what did I do this time?
I’ve been snip snapping belts on my MTB since I built it, there’s only so much you can do with idlers and tension before you’re running through belts every 100-200 miles especially with low ish gearing and being a slut for heavy acceleration.
So @haven offered me a set of BN M1-AT drives that were only missing a wheel adapter to get running, awesome! However, my flipsky motors were missing some of the shims under the C clip on the shaft that allowed for a bit of lateral play in the motor,
I didn’t want to risk exacerbating that issue with helical side loading forces and shit.
So they sat.
Until eventually BN came out with new straight cuts! Awesome let’s buy those and I can get things going… But these flipsky motors have been overheating a lot in warm weather, it’d be nice to get reachers, but if I get reachers I want to still be able to use these flipskys in the future without having to deal with cut shafts.
So they sat.
Until I got reachers, and put them on only to learn that the extra contact patch on the new pinions causes alignment issues with reachers unless you have something like the spacers from @Ac53n so let me get those.
So they sat.
Until the spacers arrived and I could actually start putting things together, I still ran into a few things like:
One of my hangar adapters was wobbly, I fixed that with just a layer of duct tape on the hangar, I’ll replace that with gorilla tape if it doesn’t hold up.
All available positions to set the gear drive in were awful, way too high up and hitting the deck or sitting 2mm away from the ground, that was fixable just by flipping the hangar but I’m not sure if the hangar geometry is symmetrical, I might’ve changed something in the truck geometry doing that but it hasn’t felt off at all.
I needed specific spacing between the gear drives and wheels because the included spacers left no room for a nut at the end so I grabbed some random assorted 12mm shims which seemed to do the trick.
I packed it with red n tacky grease which seems to be the overall go-to.
Took a page out of @BenjaminF 's book and set the backlash very tight to avoid the clickity clackity noises.
I’m sad that I can’t easily lean it against the wall anymore since the wheels touch the ground before any stationary part of the board does, that’s something I gotta figure out.
I wanted to be able to shape the wires and have them stay in place but the only wires that do that aren’t great for esk8 so I took some baling wire and put it in the cable sleeving along with my phase/sensorwires so they’re kept in place, that seems to work pretty well.
First ride impressions;
I don’t have too much experience with the new gears since weather has made it pretty difficult to get out and ride but so far they feel great, somewhere around here I read somebody say that reachers feel like they deliver power more smoothly than flipskys and I didn’t really understand what they meant till I rode my own, they definitely feel really smooth. I’m not used to gears so I’m still scared that I set something up wrong and I’ll suddenly lock up once I start to get comfortable but so far everything seems to be working well.
Until next time. (Probably in several months)
4 Likes
Recently after my partner took the eovan DIY on a particularly wet ride it began behaving kinda weird, giving broken potentiometer symptoms. I’m hoping that it’s just the VX4 or receiver but after opening the enclosure this isn’t very encouraging.
There’s a pretty small amount of moisture on top of the ESC.
I think my next step is to test this DV4S with a Puck to see if the symptoms persist. And this time apply some silicone around the heat sink. Wish me luck gentlemen.
2 Likes
Pretty sure I found the issue, tested with a puck and all seems well, I definitely need to find a better way to waterproof the receiver.
Previously I was just reusing the rubber piece that the old receiver was enclosed in and didn’t really do anything at the water ingress points to mitigate that issue, go figure.
So this is what my receiver “enclosure” looks like, I have a couple ideas on how I could waterproof a bit with silicone sealant
https://a.co/d/dSZMvpp
^this stuff
Method A seems like it would be more water-resistant but I’d be losing ease of repair/maintenance
Method B seems like it may be less water-resistant but would allow for easier repair/maintenance.
- A: enclose the receiver in silicone
- B: silicone sealant around the edges
- C: both options suck why wouldn’t you just do ___________
0 voters
Sidenote: is it possible to buy a VX4 receiver separately or are they paired to each remote specifically?
1 Like
Yeah, both options sucked.
I tried some random fuckery to try and make stuff work but it ended up stressing the wires to leave me with this:
I ended up trying out @SBS 's 3DP Puck receiver enclosure on thingiverse:
Unfortunately it just so happens to be made for a puck receiver not a VX4, back to the drawing board.
I used his version of the box as inspiration and made it in the dimensions I needed for the VX4 receiver. As well as making it a bit thicker and adding the screw holes in the base (yes I can tell the screws don’t actually have enough room for any kind of head, I need to fix that)
Installed with a bit of Butyl tape around the lid and silicone sealant around the other problem areas.
So far so good.
3 Likes
One of my foot pads started peeling up a while back and I decided today was a good rainy day to take care of that.
All that plant matter was caught between the adhesive on the shock pads and the deck itself, a bit of cleaning was in order so I used a brush, shop vac, rags, and isopropyl alcohol to clean the deck. Reapplied grip
Unfortunately these shock pads are just barely bigger than 1/2 sheet of viscous grip so you can use a full sheet for either foot pad or use half a sheet on each and leave a tiny bit of space left over. I went with the latter.
Threw the bindings on and we’re ready to ride!
Yesterday was another one of pnwesk8’s build days and I was able to use their sanding disk to grind some axle spacers to length
They came out much better than last time fortunately.
That’s all for now folks.
2 Likes
Aww shit,
I think that 12s4p Panasonic battery from my eovan finally died today, it’s made it 2000+miles for what it’s worth but today the range from full charge was about 3-5 miles, I can’t confirm yet that it’s dead and haven’t had time for diagnosis yet but last I rode it I was getting closer to 12-15 miles out of it, which isn’t great but certainly still works.
On the upside this means I can finally start doing some upgrades I’ve had planned for a while.
Any diagnostic I can do on the battery before confirming it as dead? Or should I (clearly not a battery builder) just leave the battery alone and consider it dead?
1 Like
I guess I’d pull the insulation and see if there’s any obvious failure points…
RIP 
going to replace the battery and reuse the deck you think? or go a diff direction?
2 Likes
I’m thinking a hummie deck is on the horizon.
1 Like
Holy fuckin shit I haven’t been this excited about putting something on my board in a very long time. My experience with metr products has always been utterly top notch and my expectations were incredibly high, still I was blown away.
Setting this up was an absolute joy, it’s always great when, during a setup process like this, any question you could possibly have has already been answered at length with pictures and everything.
Mini update on the eovan:
Hummie deck showed up, enclosure from @eBoosted should be done early next week, battery is ordered but can’t really be started until the enclosure arrives.
I’m still thinking about whether or not to do inserts myself, I’ve never done any and I’d hate to fuck up this beautiful deck.
3 Likes
let’s tackle inserts together at next build day 
having the same dilemma for my omakase…
WE CAN DO ITTT
1 Like
Got some RTKP’s with custom gear drive adapters, but didn’t quite fit. Close but not quite.
Unfortunately not that close.
There was a lot of sanding and filing, not very pleasant.
Eventually I got them all the way on there
These trucks are absolutely gorgeous, and I’m really excited to experiment with bushings.
I’m currently running
85a hpf on the front primary kingpin
90a hpf on the rear primary kingpin
93a krank on both supporting kingpins
This is probably gonna feel a bit jank until I can dial it in, I don’t even know where to start with these so I’ll just mess around till I find something that feels good, such is the process with bushings.
Just finished routing wires.
Now I get to wait for a break in the weather…
This is where I’m at with this board
4 Likes
Rtkp profile should be 22x22 right? Was it slightly larger than that, or were the adapters smaller than expected?
3 Likes
I found the tolerances of my hanger to be a little inconsistent. One fit well, and the other one didjt fit at all on my set
3 Likes
One was very very close and only needed a tiny bit of filling on each face, the other side needed a good bit more. I suspect it’s just the tolerances like Evan said.
2 Likes
How does the Hummie deck compare in size to the Eovan?
1 Like
Very very similar, it looks like the drop is slightly deeper on the hummie, and of course the eovan has pronounced foot pads while the hummie deck has a flat edge along the side. But other than those it’s very very close.
2 Likes
can I trouble you for a picture of the Hummie right next to it at the same height, i usually put some wheels or a case of soda under it…
did you like the flares?
i think I prefer flatter concave profiles.
I really need to step on a Hummie some day.
1 Like
Is this what you were looking for?
Well, the eovan has a w concave that I’m not the biggest fan of, the edges are a bit sharper while the center bump is almost non existent, it’s okay for aggressive riding but fatigues my feet pretty quickly. The hummie deck feels like a more subtle radial concave that I’m hoping (along with the less ridged deck) will alleviate some of the foot fatigue on this board.
1 Like