Battle hardening motors

[gmurad]

Hey,

I did a quick search and didn’t find a thread on this topic. I found this video about battle hardening motors: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MFjzSP5Oiw

Is this a good method for e-skate as well? Anyone has a better way of doing it?

PS: A long time ago when I first saw this youtube channel I thought this guy was @mmaner

[torqueboards]

Yes, you should battle harden the motors. The method shown is a good method.

You can also tape the magnets and/or 3d print an insert that covers the bearings and allows for epoxy into the gaps of the magnets.

[mmaner]

I feel attacked, I’m much better looking and my southern accent is far more attractive.

[rusins]

That’s a very well put together video! Makes it look so easy! Thanks for sharing!

[Andy87]

Why the f… nobody read my threads
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The light white - an eMTB jump story

And as promissed here a small “how to battle harden outrunner” Yes, I had a lot of motors with lose magnets, which most time result in broken magnets as I just realized it when it was too late. I´m very tired from this picture: [1] So I was looking for a way to make my motors more reliable and came accross the “battel hareden” thing. But what is battle harden? Battle harden means to fill all gaps in the motor with epoxy. A really well made motor should already come like this (some maytech …

[ixf]

Do you do all that to your motors already??

[gmurad]

@Andy87

One more thing you could do in the same time, cover the sensors and pcb with some lack or epoxy too.
waterproofing your hall sensors can save you from a lot of troubles.

That’s exactly what happened to one of my TB 6354 motors. Sensor stopped working and I wondered if battle hardening could help with that. I guess you answered that question.

[gmurad]

@torqueboards

You can also tape the magnets and/or 3d print an insert that covers the bearings and allows for epoxy into the gaps of the magnets.

I’m having a bit of trouble visualizing this (the 3d printed piece that would help). Would the epoxy have to be in an almost liquid state for this to work?

[Skunk]

I really like the way @DerelictRobot showed me by taking the can off and attaching it to and drill so that you can spin the can as you drip in ______ (no idea what he used lol jb weld? J/k)

[Andy87]

Not at all. If you put the right thoughts in it a 3D printed spacer would be a pretty good idea.

[Andy87]

The problem is that the loctite spin idea only works if there is way too less epoxy between the magnets and the loctite can run under the magnets.

[xsynatic]

The board you riding in the videos, how heavy is it? I can barely get the nose up from my board if i try to turn from a standstill. I rarely do it because getting off,picking it up and adjusting it is far more efficient compared to me trying to jump and turn the nose.

[torqueboards]

@ixf

Do you do all that to your motors already??

Yeah

@gmurad

I’m having a bit of trouble visualizing this (the 3d printed piece that would help). Would the epoxy have to be in an almost liquid state for this to work?

I haven’t tried it but @anon54720240 has got a point. Didn’t think about that Worth a shot though for science.

Back to gluesticks and toothpicks

[Andy87]

The white one? 15-17kg depends on which battery is mounted

[gmurad]

What’s an alternative for Glass Microspheres? Amazon Canada doesn’t have that. Maybe just epoxy with nothing in it?

[DerelictRobot]

This is true. Ultimately I only ended up doing this on motors that were lacking a thick line of epoxy, just to gap fill. I’ve found that ultimately nothing works better than a precise epoxy solid fill between the magnets.

[olsyke]

sweet i hear about this motor treatment the first time,

for the purpose of esk8, is it important to also do the stator side ?

[Andy87]

@anon54720240

I can harden four cans in a little over a half an hour using tape

[Andy87]

@anon54720240

you do not need/want glass mirospheres for cans.

Why not? I‘m really curious. Never used some, but also don’t get why not.

[Andy87]

@anon54720240

Four complete 6374 cans with zero residue on the magnets and no airgaps in the crevices?

No, not 6374…
6384… and i don’t mind a bit of epoxy on the magnets. It’s a 2min job to remove after the epoxy is fully hardened. As min with the one I use.
@akhlut did the most beautiful job I have seen so far and that without need to use any tape or stuff.
But really, with battle harden it’s just what works for you. There are a lot of ways to do it and even if it takes one hour…it still save you lot of troubles later.