I always like looking in here since I don’t get to make more batteries so I live vicariously through you all. I want to build another board -just- so I can build the battery…
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speaking of which…the corona build that I put those cells in from so many months back is finally finished. Your cells, 13s, stromcrorore 100D, moondrives, 3DS fatboy hubs on 8X3 kenda slicks–will post some pRON soon 
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Nice! You get that enclosure pretty?
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well, it’s got some imperfections but it fits like a glove and looks pretty slick. Keep your eyes peeled; secret: I’m gonna sell it 
ya boy’s broke and so is my ankle, so 
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Here’s a good place to ask this kind of question
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Thank you
Typically you do the main negative, the charge negative, the balance leads (negative to positive if its 1 at a time, otherwise all at once with the 11 pin connector), then all the positives
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It is a 11pin connector. So all at once. The balance leads are confusing me. Should the last pin #11 be positive ?
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And #1 cell 0v or 4.2v?
B10 and B+ are the same end, same deal with B0 and B-
Thank you! So just to be 100% sure this is correct. My balance connector reads from right to left 0v-4.2-.8.4 etc and last pin is 42v.
This is how it should be wired right?
Yes, with the negative probe on the negative of b1 and the positive probe on the positive of b10 it should be 42v
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Appreciate it!
this place
Its there for extra current carrying capacity! So that all the current doesn’t have to squeeze through just the nickel. Keeps things running cooler.
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Pro soldering trick:
If soldering thick wires to bullets or xt90’s, pre tin the wire before taking the insulation off. That way all the tiny strands will fit in the connector ^^
(This is 8AWG)
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Its a nifty trick, but when do you stop tinning if you can’t see it?
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Probably the smallest drop of solder is enough, just on the end of the cable i guess
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I do it just by feeling. So the solder doesn’t wick in the whole wire
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