When I do this I actually angle the iron tip and press into the wire where I’m just about to melt the insulation. And then I feed the solder into the wire from the top and sort of press the iron into the wire to create some pressure and sort of jiggle it just a tinny bit, but still pressing the tip in the same spot. This tiny bit of movement allows the solder to feed into the wire nicely and it doesn’t just blob up and sit on top of the wire
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haha, I love this, great pics!
I pre tin nearly all my silicone wire before stripping, keeps the end from fraying also with small stuff. BMS leads are an exception because it’s almost always cheap melty wire.
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You only need a little. Just enough to keep all the strands in check, then you can add all the solder you want after you’ve got them in the bullets.
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I learned something today!
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It’s a great trick, especially with the high strand count stuff that can act like frizzy hair sometimes.
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Any one here useing the Bestech HCX-D823 for charge only?
I’ve reached out to bestech trying to score couple of the D140 but they are obsoleted… was offered this instead.
I have mastered the art of welding the prongs to my nickel… yet to get a good weld though
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Just incase you never got an answer to this, that gauge won’t ever work when you run the BMS in bypass mode. These BMS are designed for low current ebike that use the BMS for discharge.
The BMS uses current sensors and coulomb counting to calculate accurate remaining capacity. Problem is that you charge through the BMS which moves the gauge up but bypass on discharge so it doesn’t move down again.
Imo is just badly written app, guess this is why you can fix it in the third party iOS app. And it doesn’t affect how the BMS works in any way so it’s not a wrong setting or safety concern. The real value is in being able to see the individual cell voltages and overall pack voltage.
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Has there ever been any consideration for a photo section in a thread? I feel like this could be really helpful (especially for long ones like this). Been looking for good pictures of series connections with wire to check my work
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Does anyone know why my battery aren’t charging anymore? I tried to check if one of the wires came off the battery charger wire and so far haven’t seen anything.
Did the BMS get damaged? Since I was riding over cracks and stuff.
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Check the voltages of all your p-groups. If one or more are off from the others by a large enough amount, then your BMS will disable charging.
What BMS is that? Do you know if it has balancing? If your BMS does not balance, then the only thing it actually does is to shut off charging if your groups are not balanced, in which case it is acting as it should.
If that is the case, you can manually charge the low groups back up to meet the others, but you have to also ask why your p-groups drifted low in the first place, and what you can do to keep it from happening again.
The p groups are fine. I’ve checked those hours ago. Still trying to see what went wrong.
What voltages were they?
They were 3.4 on all group since I used them.
Check the charger
Check the voltage at your charge port and make sure it is correct for your pack total.
