Ceramic tools allow you to hold the wire strands down inside the molten pool.
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I use pliers to hold the wire in place. Might have to look around and see if I got any, I just keep the tip pressed on the wire, things I gotta experiment and see what works the best I guess
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toothpick also works better than metal tools
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@Red_souls
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6G4V72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FT3AZ1WHHZD7Y8ZTVG5Z?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Alright will indeed try that next time
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Here’s the trick (:
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I find this does not work, at least for me if you don’t have any of the edge exposed it will not wick in.
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are you using flux? helps a lot ^^
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uh yeah. idk I found it was a waste of time when I had to strip to tin properly anyways. if you have one of those solder pools I bet it works good.
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A drop of liquid rosin flux into the end of the wire has worked well for me except for really badly tarnished old wire. That I have to strip and use a flux pen on, with the rubbing from the pen’s tip taking off the oxidation.
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I feel if I can keep the strands tightly together, it’ll be so much easier to slide into the cup
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I agree.
The high strand count wire makes that tough to do, those tiny strands often seem to have a mind of their own, but good luck!
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Appreciate it! Have any tips to make the job more easier?
The standard stuff…
- Use 63/37 or 60/40 lead-based solder.
- RA (rosin) flux…lots of it.
- A good soldering iron and decent size tip but not set too hot. You need lots of reserve heat but not high temp that just burns the flux too soon.
- Use new wire, not oxidized old junk, and pre-tin the ends.
- Solder in a well ventilated room, avoid breathing the fumes.
- Wash your hands thoroughly when done. Don’t touch food, dishes, or just about anything other than your soldering stuff before you wash up.
- Practice, practice, practice.
- If it takes more than a second or two then something was not set up right or you have the wrong iron, tip, setting, solder, flux, or something.
- Wipe the tip after each time…copper “sponge” or slightly damp regular sponge…and immediately tin the tip with a bit of solder to keep the tip from oxidizing.
- Never leave the iron on when not actively using it.
- Buy lots of extra tips and replace each as soon as it won’t stay “wet” with solder anymore.
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While they are shiny it is clear you are still not getting them totally hot enough and adding enough solder. The top surface should be smooth and shiny ideally. With he ceramic tools you can compress the wire strands below the surface of the solder which is why yours look rough even if fully reflowed.
The one on the far left (the connector that’s in the vice grips) that was the best one. I added lots of solder in the cup and just twisted the strands tight and it didn’t unwind. I felt it sink in and the solder rose over the wire. That was the recent one I did before I stopped, I might’ve added some solder on top, don’t remember
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Fairly good, not perfect but acceptable.
The question is how well you will make sure every single joint comes out because if your system has 32 solder joints that is 32 failure points where all of them are critial.