Yes, with the negative probe on the negative of b1 and the positive probe on the positive of b10 it should be 42v
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Appreciate it!
this place
Its there for extra current carrying capacity! So that all the current doesn’t have to squeeze through just the nickel. Keeps things running cooler.
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Pro soldering trick:
If soldering thick wires to bullets or xt90’s, pre tin the wire before taking the insulation off. That way all the tiny strands will fit in the connector ^^
(This is 8AWG)
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Its a nifty trick, but when do you stop tinning if you can’t see it?
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Probably the smallest drop of solder is enough, just on the end of the cable i guess
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I do it just by feeling. So the solder doesn’t wick in the whole wire
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When I do this I actually angle the iron tip and press into the wire where I’m just about to melt the insulation. And then I feed the solder into the wire from the top and sort of press the iron into the wire to create some pressure and sort of jiggle it just a tinny bit, but still pressing the tip in the same spot. This tiny bit of movement allows the solder to feed into the wire nicely and it doesn’t just blob up and sit on top of the wire
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haha, I love this, great pics!
I pre tin nearly all my silicone wire before stripping, keeps the end from fraying also with small stuff. BMS leads are an exception because it’s almost always cheap melty wire.
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You only need a little. Just enough to keep all the strands in check, then you can add all the solder you want after you’ve got them in the bullets.
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I learned something today!
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It’s a great trick, especially with the high strand count stuff that can act like frizzy hair sometimes.
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Any one here useing the Bestech HCX-D823 for charge only?
I’ve reached out to bestech trying to score couple of the D140 but they are obsoleted… was offered this instead.
I have mastered the art of welding the prongs to my nickel… yet to get a good weld though
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Just incase you never got an answer to this, that gauge won’t ever work when you run the BMS in bypass mode. These BMS are designed for low current ebike that use the BMS for discharge.
The BMS uses current sensors and coulomb counting to calculate accurate remaining capacity. Problem is that you charge through the BMS which moves the gauge up but bypass on discharge so it doesn’t move down again.
Imo is just badly written app, guess this is why you can fix it in the third party iOS app. And it doesn’t affect how the BMS works in any way so it’s not a wrong setting or safety concern. The real value is in being able to see the individual cell voltages and overall pack voltage.
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Has there ever been any consideration for a photo section in a thread? I feel like this could be really helpful (especially for long ones like this). Been looking for good pictures of series connections with wire to check my work
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