The Acoustic | Custom Ziricote Veneer on Carbon Hummie | Custom leather wrapped BigBen enclosure | DKP | 10s4p Samsung 30q battery | 72kv Direct Drive motors | 120mm Foamies/Clouds | 2019 HobbyWing DD ESC and Remote

  • Deck: Carbon @hummieee core with Ziricote wood veneer.

  • Enclosure: @bigben single stack with top grain calf leather wrap.

  • Trucks: flush mount DKP. Total width with cloud wheels 13"/330mm Front. 13.35"/336mm Rear.

  • Bushings: Riptide pivot cups and Krank combination.

  • Wheels: 120mm 78a high rebound urethane with foam core crossover wheels. +608RS Bearings.

  • Battery: 10s4p Samsung 30q

  • ESC: HobbyWing max current 30A

  • Motor: 72kv Direct-Drive 1600watt x 2

  • Protection: Bell SUPER 3R MIPS. Forcefield Sport Jacket 1. Bodyprox Knee Pads. Burton Wrist Guards.

  • Board total weight with battery: 27lbs / 12.25 kilos

  • Rider stats: 6’1" 175lbs.

The Acoustic . This build was inspired by my attraction to beautiful ziricote acoustic guitars. Signature ziricote has a grain pattern that resembles stacked rolling hills. It is simply calming to just look at it. I started day dreaming of building an esk8 that looked like those gorgeous acoustic guitars. I was inspired to customize a deck in a way I have never seen before. For the drive train, 2019 was a hot direct-drive motor year for many of us. I knew I was going to build something with DD axial motors for their simplicity in assembly while allowing a wide range of wheel choices. My goal was to build a custom board under a thousand dollars that carved really well, handled standard road vibration well, and was strong enough to tackle any of the hills in my local neighborhoods. Regarding performance, I was NOT looking to build a speed machine, or a torque monster. 99.9% the paths that I ride, the speeds I usually cruise and carve at, and the small hills I encounter do not require a top end beast build. I wanted the build complete with minimal components, keeping assembly simple, and presenting cleeeeaaann. I think defining my Actual use/needs really helped me keep the build at a proper budget. After all, the inspiration was an acoustic guitar…and to me that’s mellow, easy going, and relaxing. :slight_smile:

To kick things off, I searched for sources to purchase ziricote wood veneer and found my raw material at There were so many unique pieces to choose from, it was very difficult to narrow down the choices! But ultimately, I landed on this dual bookmatched set. Each piece is 80 inches long by 6 inches wide.

Signature ziricote has a grain pattern that resembles stacked rolling hills.

Just to be clear, I am NOT a professional wood worker or highly experienced in dealing with these materials. This was the very first time I attempted anything like this. I spent hours scouring the internet, reading and gathering information, until I felt that I had enough information to dive in head first. I definitely made mistakes along the way. I will point those out and share the tips on how i’d do it differently next time. The information I’m sharing here is what worked for me and allowed me to arrive at a finished piece that I ride comfortably and am quite fond of staring at haha!

This is my 6th board but first build thread, and it will be long. I will try to explain the steps I took as clearly and with as much detail as possible. Obviously there is a very wide range of experience on this site and there will be lots of redundant info for many of you. As is the goal for many other threads, this one is written with love to inspire confidence in new builders to tackle their own first time projects! For me personally, I LOVE seeing photos when I read everyone’s build threads. So in an effort to provide a detailed visual experience, this thread will also be photo heavy. I hope you all enjoy!


Before I really knew what deck I was going to veneer, I created some concepts in photoshop to previsualize how my bookmatched raw stock could potentially be used.

You can see over the course of my exploration, carbon fiber was introduced to the equation. (The shape of the deck seen in my mock ups come from the Zenit AB 2.0) Ultimately, the beautifully established @hummieee deck and the perfectly mated @bigben enclosure was the winning choice. Thank you to both of you for spearheading such a great product! We all know that rare unicorn combo is hard to find on call these days…biiiiig shout out to @topcloud for coming through with a “spare” set for sale -Thank you brother!

I needed to widen the battery cutout underneath by about 6mm to fit my samsung 30q battery pack. I routed out the cavity using a simple handheld trim router with a flush bit and TOP side bearing. I created a “fence” for the bearing to run up against by simply taping square dowel to the base of the deck. This allowed the guide to have maximum flexibility working with a concave deck. (The stock edge guide for the router would require a much larger fence to be clamped separate off of the board… which i don’t have.)


***Things to watch out for: I set the bearing and bit too low at first contact… gouged out some sloppy holes haha!

If I were to do this again, I would do the cut out in 4-5 passes…only lowering the router bit slightly each new pass. This way, the router bit doesn’t have to tear at sooo much wood at once. It will be much easier to slide the router bearing down the makeshift guide.

Masked off the walls of the battery cavity and leveled out my mistakes with a touch of resin and painted the bare wood over to help seal any raw wood fibers from collecting moisture over time.

The Veneer Process… I’ll try to be as thorough as possible so that any inspired folks can give it a go! Here’s the full raw piece bookmatched. I referenced this video on properly trimming and bookmatching veneer for curved/convexed guitar bodies

I laid the hummie deck on the veneer and ran a pencil line about +1 inch around the deck’s outline. For trimming out the rough outline, I tested utility blades, box cutters, xacto blades, EMT scissors, and Fiskars micro tip pruning snips.

All of the free blades were terribly inefficient and took way too many passes to make a cut all the way through. Both scissors were superior to any of the free blades. At first i went just cutting the bare wood, and would get reallly clean cuts sometimes, and bad tear out other times. I discovered that using clear light packaging tape on BOTH back and front of the veneer allowed me to scissor cut the veneer with very complex curves and prevent all splintering and tear out. Wayyyyy faster and cleaner than doing multiple passes with a box cutter blade or mini saw. The blades also did not work well making curved cuts…Scissors for the win!!

***Things to look out for : The clear packing tape allows you to see through to your pencil outline as you cut. Tape both sides of the veneer where your cut line is. It will keep everything tight and intact as you scissor trim. Do not fully close the scissors tips as you snip. Open them wide and only cut until the scissor is a little past halfway closed, open them and reposition further down your pencil outline and repeat. If you scissor cut alllll the way to the tips of the blades, it will pinch and tear the wood!

I folded my bookmatched veneer at the seam to trim out the center light colored sapwood in one symmetrical mirror cut… Creating a “window” to view the carbon fiber deck underneath, while still keeping a nice trim of the sapwood for light against dark contrast.

I also like the organic “live edge” curves against the industrial geometric carbon weave… Contrast !!! …

Once I had the rough cut, it was time to make sure the veneer and “window” cut out was perfectly centered. Using blue painters tape, I anchored the veneer down temporarily through the middle window to prepare for the precision cut of the final outline.

Working the veneer from the center out toward the nose with hand pressure, I taped and used a white pencil to mark up to the contour with about +2mm give/take to account for veneer shrinkage after the epoxy cured. Rolled up a towel to hold in the veneer at the big concave in the deck as I drew the outline.

… some extra temp chalk lines on the carbon center to help me re-center the veneer quickly again…

***Things to look out for: Make sure you cut slowly as you come around curves, clear tape over the new precise white outline … precut some relief snips perpendicular up to the chalk line to prevent stress and tearing from the hanging cut aways.

When I got to the drop-through end of the deck, the fiskar micro pruning tips were suuuuper helpful for complex curved clean cuts. Just Angled and X’d my way with relief cuts up to the chalk lines. Remember to not close the scissors snips fully.

Veneer all trimmed 1:1 to the final shape.

Masked off the edges to prep the carbon fiber surface for epoxy coat.

Sanding with 320 grit on that perfect carbon surface huuuurt hahaha!

***Things to look out for: Masking the edges of the board, be sure to be really precise on making clean contact up to the edge. Press the tape down well with your fingers or a roller. A good clean seal here will reduce any epoxy drips that will be nuisance to sand off later. Take your time and be anal about laying the tape down. Sanding the smooth surface of the carbon fiber deck will allow the new epoxy layer to bond better. Don’t press toooo hard and gouge at the surface. Just light hand pressure and enough to let the sand paper create a dusty surface over time. No need to go overkill on this step.

Epoxy mixed. I used Maker Supreme Crystal Clear Epoxy and Reusable Silicone mixing sticks and mixing containers.

I mixed about 20 ml but probably only used about 10ml or less. I laid a paper thin epoxy coat on the sanded carbon deck, brushed on with a 3 inch wide fine bristle synthetic brush, then placed the veneer on using my temporary centering chalk lines… Taped the veneer’s edges down all around the body of the deck to prevent it from sliding off center. I then laid “peel-ply” over the wood surface and lightly taped that down around the perimeter as well.

The peel ply should help keep the inside of my vacuum bag clean, and also sop up any light bleed through resin… and finally, I slid the deck into the vacuum bag being careful to not bump the veneer off center.

***Things to look out for : Always do the recommended 5 minutes of hand stirring the resin and hardener together before applying via paintbrush, or foam brush, or roller. They all could work, just focus on thin even coating. It does not need much to bond! It’s always safer to over estimate and mix a little extra epoxy. You can use isopropyl to clean out the silicone containers and mixing sticks, and wipe away with paper towels.

The vacuum lamination procedure was completed using the “Thin Air Press” Roarockit. They sell kits that are specifically sized and shaped for skateboard decks! The hand pump, sealing tape, and breather net is included too! Roarockit

Before the bag is sealed, I laid a black strip of “breather net” that ran across the length of the deck, intersecting the vacuum port… This allows the air to evacuate from all parts of the bag evenly without pockets of space pre-collapsing unevenly. It definitely worked as intended. I was surprised to see that the hand pump cleared the bag to full seal in less than 1 minute of pumping. MUCH faster than i anticipated! I was dreading the idea of continuous pumping for like 15 minutes haha - not the case!

Here you can see how perfectly tight the veneer is being held to the deck. You can also see the 1mm +/- over overhang I left.

*** tips and tricks : Poured epoxy resin from the master mixing pot into this beer bottle cap to check the cure level over time… this way, I can have a reference point to know for sure that the resin is cured, and that it’s ready to pull out of the bag.

I ended up leaving it over night while getting caught up with baby duty. This project was rolling in tandem with my newborn daughter when she was around 3 months old. Needless to say, the time for fun projects are much slimmer these days! Say hello to Adelyn :slight_smile:

***Things to look out for: Make sure the baby is fed and has a clean diaper before getting back into the zone with the projects. Feed the wife/spouse too while you’re at. It’s always best to pop in and support your spouse if the baby begins crying. Do not ignore the situation as if the spouse can simply handle it on their own, even if they truly can. This will make future project time easier to get away to because the spouse trusts you’re still paying attention to the baby. Be ready to sacrifice any resin that is mixed and ready to apply, but ultimately not used because of “duties” … ;p

The next morning i pulled it out to see everything had lined up nice around the contours and center lines and cured perfectly solid. There was very very minimal bleed through seen on the top face of the veneer! All the bleed through spots disappeared with 2 minutes of verrrryyyy liiiiiight hand sanding using 100 grit sandpaper.

I used a curved file to tackle any small resin drips around the drop-through truck slots. This tool made it a total breeze to do so!

The next step is to finish it with a top coat. Using the same 2 part epoxy, I mixed another 12ml of resin to do a “soak” pass. It really was not necessary to sand off any of the bleed through spots from my initial vacuum bagging pass, as the next “grain fill” layer of epoxy resin would cover all that up even anyway.

This first top coat eventually soaks into the porous veneer and “plasticizes” it. After it cured overnight, I took 120 grit to it to rough it up for another top coat pass. I poured the resin into the carbon center channel to help build up and level the surface to veneer’s light sapwood edge. This took about 3 thin pour-on and brush passes.

*Things to look out for : When trying to achieve a build up thickness, it is easier to manage and predict the evenness of the layers by going in multiple thin passes. If pouring thick all at once, you end up moving a lot of goop around and the brush strokes become uneven across the surface. The resin will pool in the concaves quicker too, so you’ll have to fight a lot of “running” resin. Be patient and pour thin coats, brush them out evenly with light weight strokes… letting the weight of the big brush do the work… Then once the coat begins to gel a bit, you can mix>pour>brush the next layer.

Spritizing the surface of the epoxy resin with isopropyl alcohol temporarily thins it’s viscosity and helps level out some of the brush strokes. *Things to watch out for : If your resin layer is TOO thin, spritzing the surface of it with isopropyl cause little “dry pools” and “craters” to form.

Once the epoxy top coat was left to cure, it inevitably collected dust, micro bubbles, slight orange peel from temperature fluctuations, and the random tiny flying insect or two (3 in my case)… It is OKAY! The wet sanding with 1000 grit sandpaper will smooth out allllll those surface imperfections.

The final step for completing the veneer is surface finishing pass. I used 2000 grit sandpaper and wet sanded to arrive at a clean level surface. This is then followed up with compound and polish passes for the intended matte or gloss finish.

I was going for the acoustic guitar look. Hence the matte/satin finish i stopped at. I used a 6 inch foam wheel drill attachment with a 12v cordless drill and applied the compound.

For the polish solution, I simply used a micro fiber towel and hand polished the deck in little sections of 6 inch circles, doing a small area at a time across the deck until got from one side to the other. This was a very meditative relaxing process for me haha!

***Things to look out for. When sanding or polishing, be careful not to spend too much effort around the outside edges! The epoxy does not “build up” as thick at the contours. You can very easily sand through your clear coat into the raw wood. When wet sanding or polishing, there is a very obvious white milky solution that forms … as it pools up wipe it away with a different cloth. You’ll know if you burned through your clear coat if that milky white solution begins to look yellowish - that’s wood dust mixing in with the wet epoxy. Here is a very clear workflow to follow (The guitar maker uses Deft clear coat instead of 2 part epoxy but the hand polishing workflow is pretty much what I followed to achieve my finish) :

One major step complete!


The DKP trucks in drop through configuration look beautiful as is… But at a glance, it seems possible to have motor-bite with very deep carving. Routing out the deck to drop the baseplate flush will help create some space between the bottom of the deck and the spinning motor-housing. The top of the deck will present much nicer this way too! Shout out to @Pedrodemio for introducing me to the look!

To begin this task, I temporarily ran 2 bolts through the baseplate and deck to secure it properly. Using the same rectangular dowels from my previous makeshift router guide, I trimmed down 4 pieces to create a “frame” around the exact outline of the baseplate. These dowels were fixed together with a couple blobs of superglue.

With the baseplate still properly anchored in place using 2 bolts through the deck, I laid the frame over it and secured it to the deck temporarily with a liberal amount of painters tape. I now have a “raised fence” for my router bearing to slide against the frame’s inner walls.

***Thing to look out for: Once again, I set my router depth too deep for the first pass and tore away some of the edge as the router tip snagged a big chunk of wood all at once.

It will be much easier to handhold the router in multiple shallower passes without “snagging.” Use good C-clamps to hold the deck to your workbench.


Nothing like a the fine aged leather shoulder strap on an acoustic guitar! Most the time, you see black nylon straps…But sometimes you see that perfectly weathered, hand oiled, wide leather shoulder strap! I thought I would emulate the accessory by customizing my enclosure with it’s own “leather jacket.” Also something I had never seen before. A big shout out to @bigben for creating this super sleek perfectly mated enclosure! It really completes the Hummie deck so well.

I acquired the leather from an Etsy shop based in Romania.

I used Loctite spray adhesive on both surfaces that were be mated. The spray pattern comes out of the nozzle very much like thick spider webbing. It surprised me at first, as was expecting the typical mist of a spray can haha! In about 10 minutes, the glue gelled up a bit and became semi-dry to the touch.

Now the leather and enclosure was ready to be pressed together.

On contact, both surfaces will bond pretty firmly without the ability to slide and adjust. You can fully peel/lift it and re-lay it, but it is best to be slow and tactical when first aligning the leather.
I started on one edge of the enclosure and rolled it on a few inches at a time.
I used my hands to massage the leather into the contours of the enclosure, making sure to not over-stretch the leather. The popoca was a handy rolling device as well :wink:

Once the enclosure leather reached the other end, I used my trusty EMT trauma shears to trim the excess skin, leaving about 1.5 inches (38mm) of material to fold over the lip. For the corners and curved contours of the enclosure, I cut relief triangles to allow the leather to properly lap.

The same adhesive spray was used to bond the lap edges underneath.

Once this step was complete, I laid foam weather stripping around the full contour to cleanly hide the leather lap, and to provide a soft gasket between the deck and enclosure. The material is a dense neoprene rubber that measures 1/8" thick by 2" wide x 3mm thick. (3.17mm thick x 50.8mm wide). It came with a 3M sticky side and laid down simply like tape.

The surface of the leather was hand coated with mink oil. This completely water proofed the leather and water simply rolls off it in beads. I’m looking forward to see it “age” with road debris kick-up. The general self-healing nature of leather when it is conditioned is attractive to me. This is first time i’ve seen anything like so we will see how it fairs over time, It could be a fun thing to give the enclosure a new jacket every year or two haha.

****Things to look out for: Lay out some trash bags or newspaper on your workspace before spraying the contact adhesive. The spider web-like glue is realllllyyyy sticky and will be difficult to clean off of any precious work surfaces. Wear a mask and try not to inhale any of those fumes. I also used gloves to keep my hands from collecting any residue that might contaminate other clean surfaces. Try not to stretch the leather too much as you’re wrapping, It will adhere nice and even, and it will hug contours better if you avoid introducing extreme lateral stress.



I started by drilling out the two holes for the power button and charge port. I didn’t measure anything on this step, just eyeballed the position on the angled face of the enclosure. Fed it through and secured it with the locking nuts.

Next I centered my enclosure on the deck, focusing on the edges all around to check for even spacing. Once I was satisfied, I used 4 C-clamps to hold the enclosure down around it’s 4 corners. If you use the c-clamps upside-down, you end up with a nice built in self standing setup. The clamps will compress the enclosure flush with body of the deck to prepare for drilling the holes.

I used a white chalk pencil to mark the drilling locations on the leather around the enclosure. With a small bit, I went around and drilled out some pilot holes going straight through the enclosure until I made slight contact with the deck, enough to mark the deck and deep enough to rest the final larger drill bit in later. I removed the 4 clamps and set the enclosure aside. I now have “starter holes” for the enclosure and deck in place ready to widen.

Insert screws: M6 x Furniture Hex Drive Flat Head Steel Screw Nut Threaded For Wood Insert. These insert screws are super easy to put in with the hex key built into them. (I’ve done other inserts without the hex slot that require the extra anchor nut/bolt… probably won’t go back seeing how easy this was to work with)

Enclosure bolts : JDMFresh - CNC Billet Aluminum Engine Bay Fender Washer Bolt Dress Up Kit with 6mm x 10mm bolts

In drilling out the deck for the insert screws, I tested the closest looking drill bit size on scrap wood to confirm that the insert screw fit snug. To consistently know how deep to drill, wrap a piece of blue painters tape around tip of the drill bit at leeeassst the same length as the insert screw, you can go deeper if your bolts are longer, but be sure to check the length of your taped drill bit tip against the thickness of your deck. Obviously, you will want the tip to be shorter than the thickness of the deck so you don’t drill all the way through.

There are two schools of thought on whether to drill out the holes perpendicular to the deck, or drill perpendicular to the face of the enclosure. I kind of a did a half and half and it worked out great. This angle of the drill bit was all eyeballed as I hand-held the drill. With the final drill bit depth marked with tape, I followed all my previously marked pilot holes and slowly drilled down until the blue tape started to “sweep” the pile of wood chips away around the hole. This was a visual indicator that the drill bit has gone deep enough for the insert screw.

I applied RED loctite to the outside of the insert screw threads by squeezing the fluid on a q-tip first, then pressed the wet q-tip against the threads of the insert screw. I also repeated this step for the inner walls of the holes I drilled out of the deck. This coated everything evenly and cleanly without having to deal with extra runs and drips. I went back to the enclosure and widened the pilot holes out with the same larger bit.

***Things to look out for: Try to avoid getting red loctite on the inside threads of your inserts, you’ll want to use blue loctite in there. The step to loctite the inserts screws into the deck is not always required, but it will always help prevent the insert from backing out of the deck later. 2 part Epoxy is also applicable to REALLY set this inserts into the deck. Anything to prevent repeat work is smarter to address properly up front :wink: Once you place the enclosure back on the deck to start bolting it on, don’t keep screwing if you start to feel extreme resistance, you’ve bottomed out the bolt and it’s pressing against undrilled wood, you will simply need to use shorter bolts.


I started by securing the drop through baseplates to the deck. This step is easiest to do when the deck is light weight and still bare of any components. I cut some dense neoprene strips to make a gasket between the hard surfaces of the baseplate and deck. I don’t mean to make height adjustments so I didn’t use risers. I only mean to creates a barrier between hard surfaces that may rub and creak so this neoprene did the job.

Here we can see the baseplate sitting nice and flush within the deck. You can see the mistakes I made around the cutout of the baseplate - I’ll share my solution on cleaning that up in bit.

With the hangers off of the baseplates, now was the time to upgrade my stock bushings and pivot cups. Shoutout to Brad and Tracy @Riptidesports for helping me sort out the setup of the new Krank bushings and pivot cups!

I provided Brad with a description of my desired riding style and body weight. This build is meant to be a mellow carver/cruiser for my weight of 175lb. Brad was amazing with his time emailing the information I needed to help me pick the right bushing combinations. The ride is amazingly smooth, nimble and without wobble. I created this diagram as a visual confirmation with Brad to illustrate the final bushing setup before placing the order. I hope other DKP riders will find it useful.

The pivot cups all swapped out. (If you order through riptide, they are “Evolve dimensions”)

Here are the new bushings in place.


The wheel options for the direct-drive kit allow for both Kegel or Abec style cores. Inserting and removing the wheels from their corresponding adapters requires minimal effort. The supplied adapters feel very well built and the fitment is very precise with zero slop.

My two wheel options on hand are the 90mm Popoca and the 120mm Foamie/Clouds. Here you can see the stark difference in their mass and volume.

The wheels bolted to the hangers, and hangers mounted to the baseplates.

***Things to note : For these bushings, the starting point for KranK adjustment is just tight enough to remove all the slop then you have about 2 full turns of the king pin nut to adjust to your desired ride feel.

I custom ordered my battery through a company called online called Unitek.
The Samsung 30Q 10s4P

The battery was secured to the bottom of the deck using two strips of 3M dual lock tape. It functions like heavy duty velcro…

The same process was used to hold the ESC in place. I chose the Hobbywing ESC and remote combo as I already had experience with it’s quality and performance. It was also the fastest route to a smooth plug and play experience to get my DDs and 120mm wheels up and running. The antenna wire can be seen temporarily held down with the blue painters tape.

The antenna wire coming off of the ESC ends in wide adhesive “antenna band.” I stuck it to the inside curve of the truck cutout and reinforced the solder point with a bead of black hot glue. I chose this location as it is well exposed for great wireless connectivity, while also being well protected from any scrapes/bumps/snags.

Here is the space available for the plugs and wires. I had to rough out some channels for the cylindrical bodies of the charge port and power button, in order to close the enclosure flat and flush with the deck. (This is not required modification for this deck and enclosure combo, it just happened for me this way because of the location i decided to place my power button and charge port.)

All the quick connection plugs for the motors and sensor wires clipped in quickly to the ESC. The power button clipped into the esc. The charge-port clipped into the battery. And lastly, the battery plugged into the ESC. (I had wiring and an LCD battery meter ready as well but decided I did not care to install it. While not as precise, the remote also has a battery indicator so I passed on installing it on the board for now) With everything all plugged in, it was time to secure the enclosure to the deck. In the process of putting in the enclosure bolts, I felt the fender washers were too large and visually distracting…The leather wrap of the enclosure acted as a “washer” between the head of the bolts and the body of the enclosure naturally. So I removed the fender washers from the equation and tightened the bolts in to finish mounting the cover.

The last bit of work was around the drop through baseplates. I went back to mask off the deck around the baseplates and using permatex gasket maker, I filled in my mistakes and gaps to create a solid rubber barrier between the baseplate and the deck.

This helped to cover up my routing overshoots, and make the surface appear visually seamless. Now, debris can’t fall into the gaps and it presents much cleaner! (The permatex is very firm but flexible. It would be very simple to release with an X-acto blade slice around the perimeter of the baseplate. (I would later return to paint the permatex with a coat of black enamal paint.)


My helmet is the Bell SUPER 3R MIPS.
MIPS stands for Multi-directional Impact Protection System. I love how truly ventilated this full face helmet is. In southern California, the weather can be pretty warm year round, and I have never felt stuffy inside this set. The air is always flowing very nicely through all sides, especially the forehead and brow ridge. I appreciate how the flip buckles allow me to quickly release or lock on the lower chin bar. The helmet is extremely light weight for the amount of protection it gives.

Forcefield Sport Jacket 1.

I chose this armored base layer for its flexibility, breathability, and being so light weight.
The shoulder armor and elbow armor are substantial in coverage and rated CE1. The back armor is rated CE2.(CE stands for Conformité Européene, which translates to European Conformity.
CE ratings explained in under 3 minutes.

Bodyprox Knee Pads. Burton Wrist Guards.
These last two pieces are also very light weight and simple for me to wear. The easier and less bulky the protection is, the more likely I am to carry it and use it. Always use it.

After one last polishing pass on the deck, I called it DONE!!!
Thanks to all who participated in the read!!!
I hope at least a handful of new builders find enough information in this thread to feel ready to tackle their own project! Feel free to ask questions along the way!

Please enjoy the following photos I took of the finished board - The Acoustic.


It is so smooth and so quiet! These wheels are extremely grippy! The direct drive motors are much more quiet than I anticipated. The flex of the ride doesn’t come primarily from the actual deck itself, but more from the DKP bushing stacks. I didn’t know what to expect but I really like the feeling! The “carvability” is very controlled and very surfy with the Krank bushings. (It feels very similar to a mid length 6’5" surfboard I have in my quiver.) The board can lean nice and deep around sharp corners while staying confident and firm in faster straight lines. I experienced zero speed wobble when bee-lining to max speed of 31/32 mph with the 120mm wheels. The brakes are extremely smooooth and predictable! It is what I love best about the hobbywing programming curves. For my personal riding area and style, I prefer my brakes to never lock. You can truly “slam” on the brakes and get a very smooth and powerful deceleration without being bucked off the front. The ride height tackles all the dips, cracks, and bumps of my usual paths with so much ease and SO MUCH COMFORT! I am in love with these wheels. Even in medium speed mode, all the slopes of my neighborhoods were climbed with plenty of torque and speed. I anticipated a loss in launch power with the larger wheels, but that was definitely not the case for me. There is more than enough torque for the way I usually cruise. “The Acoustic” is my perfect board.

I have been riding the deck “gripless.” With the combination of my rubber soles and the gloss surface of the deck, it’s been a fine amount of grip for me. The feeling is similar to basketball court grippy’ness with clean shoes. I fully understand that I may need to update that with glass frit in the future, but right now I love looking at that NAKED Ziricote grain and carbon fiber.

Happy safe riding :smiley:

-Don Ta


I gotta admit that was way too much reading for me so I just skimmed and looked at the pictures but it looks fantastic man!


Definitely the most aesthetic build I’ve seen in a long time. I’m so hard right now


I’m driving to San Jose rn


HAH! I was about to say @Kellag there was no wayyyy you finished that reading in 1 min. hahahah!!
Indeed, the reading is for some and not for others! I’m glad you enjoyed the pics though LOL!


Build of the year?


Holy shit, i’ve been waiting for this thread and it looks like you’ve done an excellent write up! Look forward to reading it later tonight :call_me_hand:




This has to be the longest post in the history of discourse.


Already saw this on FB (the Electric Skateboard Club)
But you can’t have too much of this beauty
Congrats… again
I was thinking of doing a Palissandre layout to my deck but I’m not sure now as everybody will tell me I’m a copycat :stuck_out_tongue:


Absolutely stunning :+1:t3:


Great outstanding work :+1:


So much love. Detailed and cared for.
One of a kind.


You gotta do it!!! I’d absolutely LOVE to see more custom wood skinned decks!!!


We’ll see :wink:
BTW I’ve noticed you’re looking for some trasparent grip solution
Try looking for “Lucid Grip” they sell a complete kit
I haven’t tested but looks like the easiest solution!


Ah yes, I’ve used lucid before. I’ve got some Glass frit on hand but have not felt inclined to cover up the beautiful wood grain haha!


My new pick for build of the year!


My goodness, where do I begin. Firstly, a fascinating and well executed job, all the way from planning to the execution. You can tell the copious amounts of time and effort that went into making this meticulously perfect. Obviously this board stands out and is one of a kind in our community, and I adore the aesthetic. Your write-up is another work of art really, because it is through and extremely well written, so much so that you’ve included your mistakes, lessons learned, and advice for anyone looking to do the same. And the beautiful pictures for anyone who find it tl;dr. Definitely the kind of writeup I wish I saw more often
A very well done, and many thanks for your effort into this. Definitely my contender for build of the year .


Didn’t read a single word but enjoyed the pictures :joy:

Really cool build.

Was gonna ask what about griptape but you probably wrote it somewhere in the post, so will just look thru once I feel like it :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: