Is it possible to set up a fresh board without laptop connection?
Possible? Yes.
Recommended? Hell no.
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Well damn, thank you!
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got a hummie deck and in order to fit 21700 cells in it i need a couple milimetres more space on either side of the cutout
is routing a bit more wood out safe for the deck? and if so what is the best way to do it?
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I did this with my mk1 direct drive motors JB welded some 10k thermistor to the stationary part of the can. Works well.
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a small ammount routing I believe is ok (ive done it recently) to fit 12s4p 21700 cells (40T). I followed @donta42 ’ s build thread, where he shows how to do it. He uses a router, but i know others who have used a dremel and it’s been fine too. I used a router and i would advise practicing on some scrap wood first, those things are scary powerful.
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i think ive found some with connectors on both ends…just wanted check if you think these will be fine to connect the 2 ESC’s (presumably they will)?
dont have a router so was planning on using a dremel
(dunno if you can call that routing)
im pretty light but is there any chance it will take away from the structural integrity of the deck
also is 5-7mm on either sied to much?
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tbh i dont know 100% , but ive read somewher here that if you dont route all the way to the edges you’ll be ok. the fact you’re light is definitely on your side
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yep nice
wont be routing all the way to the edges as just need down the middle
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I would remove the +5 and GND wire if it’s two ESC. There is a quirk if one ESC is powered off it can blow you canbus transceivers.
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Do the new flipsky 6384 motors have a good rep? I just found out anubis has them in stock, so I might jump on that instead of the SK3 6374. (It’s for a 1WD build, I need reliability)
EDIT: Just found out that they are 140kv… Would mean a more reasonable gear ratio is possible to achieve the top speed I want… Any disadvantage to 140kv compared to 190kv?
I’d it’s only a few mm why not just get neoprene rubber foam like 5mm or something will be like £10-15 quid and you don’t have to mess around with the board ?
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Yeah, it’s 2 single ESC’s - 1 per motor.
so you’re saying i have to not plug in the hall sensors from the motors? (im assuming this because GND covers the hall sensors). And the +5 im not familiar with, which connector is that?
Ultimately I don’t need to do anything clever with this, just daisy-chain these ESC’s together to use on a street build (…presumably they do need to be connected if im using Bluetooth…?), but the extra components needed to do this is stacking up (and as they say less components=less opportunity of failure). Is it this finicky with the Trampa VESC’s (the single ones), or is the design on these unusual? (it’s my first build so im not aware of whats normal)
I thought you were talking about canbus cable. For the terminator I think it was T and GND. +5 is used by hall circuit.
Maybe i am talking aboutt he Canbus cable if that’s what connects 2 single ESC’s together? just wanted to know if this will work https://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/product/male-jst-gh-1-25-4-pin-connectors-to-jst-gh-1-25-4-pin-connectors-cable-pack-of-5/?v=79cba1185463 - but you seem to say it’s risky to use?
sorry, am not familiar with the terminal names you mention (T and GND etc)
the cable i linked looks quite different to this one
Safe if you use only the Can hi and Can low pins that’s the two in the middle. Like the torqueboard can cable.
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so the TB ones i showed above are what is safe and will prvent the ESC from blowing the canbus receivers? and they go in CAN here -
Yes or I use a AliExpress cable with wires 1 and 4 cut away.
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