I would use M4 x 5 or M4 x 4 and not stainless steel. Get 12.9 if possible otherwise 10.9
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also ensure metal dust does NOT go into your motor. Use masking tape and plastic to shield it
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Ah, makes sense.
That is a marking from the manufacturing tool. The tool picks up the surface a bit and pushes it sideways.
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Has someone an idea what happened to the receiver?
Where the hell comes the oxidation from? There was no water inside- never.
Edit: sorry for the bad pic but my camera is gross.
Double Edit: I think it was bc of going downhill way more faster than my board can go, hit the breaks then and seconds later my fantasy ride began. My board can do 40kmh and i was something around 60kmh when i used the breaks.
Read something like this on a @MoeStooge thread and i think that was pretty the same thing.
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Is it ok if i put a 3.64 and 3.65v battery in the same p group
Y u not use my vx1 case
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Was first using dual 200a track star ESC and paralleling the RX into a single receiver I had one motor burn down phase to phase on high speed hard breaking on 4096 inrunners. It took out the control board on the ESC and backfed through the RX wire parallel to the other ESC taking it out of commission as well. I use two receivers now because of this.
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how does superfoc 6.8 work? how does it compare to tb 4.12 or flipsky 4.2, 4.12?
hi sorry noob question here:
is there a website that contains a “database” type thingy for wide range of decks with few brands and different styles? Trying to help a friend to pick his new deck for a deck swap
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The only difference is the hardware, user experience and setup should be the same for you.
They will work better when used in FOC mode.
Not aware of one, there are product selectors on various sites but really only going to let you compare products they offer so far as I know.
Use the search in top right of site to find things on the forum here as well, here’s some relevant looking links:
Essentially understanding that curve on the board helps to lock you in and give you some control authority on the board with your feet is I think pretty important and not entirely obvious to someone new to skateboarding in general. If they have kicked around a little deck before manually it will probably help to solidify this understanding first hand as having it explained to you really doesn’t make it clear, if you have a totally flat deck or near flat deck vs one with some curve it helps as a point of comparison. On the opposite side there is the need to mount a usually flat large battery to the bottom of the deck which will benefit from less flex and less curve in the deck.
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Metal will always oxidize so long as it’s exposed to the air and if there is any sort of moisture in the air (high humidity) tends to cause oxidization to happen more quickly, but even without it things will eventually start to combine with the oxygen in the air and become rusty. If it is just surface level rust this isn’t a major problem but in many cases with metals the oxidized/rusted part begins to flake and exposes more fresh metal to oxidize underneath it. Galvinization is the process of coating another metal with a zinc layer because although the zinc will oxidize on the outside layer it doesn’t flake and won’t let oxygen get into the lower layers so easily, the oxide layer on the outside protects the rest of the metal. Since galvinizing our stuff isn’t really practical next best bet I think is conformal coating, so you cover the metal with something non-metallic and non-conductive that will insulate it from the air. I think conformal coating electronics boards is probably pretty standard for things like cars and other vehicles that will be outside all the time and tend to see a lot of different air conditions as they move around in the world 
but isn’t usually a step taken by factories when making hobby electronics (extra steps is extra cost and some components like barometers don’t take well to being conformal coated so unless it’s asked for it isn’t done)
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Regarding your sudden burst of speed into ludicrous mode when trying to brake hard to say what went wrong but if you have telemetry/metr on there it includes the PPM info if you upload your data can see if the PPM went wacky before the thing decided to take off or if it was something else. I’ve had cases where I was messing with config and set positive values some unexpected places or negative values I forget but was flipped basically for regen braking amps and ended up pushing power into the motor instead when I tried to brake (was consistent issue though so easy to pin down in my case and fix)
Is anyone selling mudguards for 6 inch wheels?
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I would also like to know this 
have considered printing my own since if it rains the pneumatic wheels become a sprinkler system focused on me the rider
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Trampa is the only one i see offering something… for 8 inch and mtb axles only, at a price that makes you look for better options
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Not really a database but https://www.sickboards.nl and https://www.muirskate.com both have a pretty good selection
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