Is there anything fundamentally wrong with having the rear of your board <20mm (I think it’s about 10-12mm) higher than the front? I went down the rabbit whole of top mounting DDs and I think the best I can do is going to be about 2mm lower than the below:
2 Likes
I ride 2 receivers as well, but a budged chinese crappy board.
One in the front and one for the back motors.
Worked well untill i rode this thing faster and i was forced to break.
It was not a very hard break, but felt harder bc of the speed i was skating.
Just gently pulled the throttle back and it almost felt double as strong as usual.
Then after hitting the throttle again and after releasing the acceleration started again on its own. Big drama for me bc im from gaymoney and i have to ride stealth mode crappy board ( which I love more than everything) and cannot easily switch to a better setup without getting caught by the police on the first view.Two days later i realized that one motor was trashed. That was the reason for tagging you, bc I lately read what happened to one of your boards today in a rush 
Thank you Moe for explaining again 
im pretty stupid sometimes 
One day I want to own and ride a Stooooooooge Raaaaaaace Boooooard!
Peace
2 Likes
versteh ich nicht, dood?
nee!
No! I use my own cases
EDIT: ach so…sorry
Ahh yeah hahahaha no I dont use it bc I dont have any space left in my encolure i think…You are talking about your receiver case design to print, right?
I have senn and read about that. Good idea 
2 Likes
Ja klar, platz haste immer d00d!
Ich messe es dir Mal aus, dann kannste schauen.
Thanks!
2 Likes
Thank you Shaun for your detailed drop into my problems 
that sounds like the point where trouble could start I guess.
Yeah thought about something like that as well for the receiver, my esc are all coated 
1 Like
No, dont have any logs or something on this crap. Just Diy Hardware not software, but I will chime in as far as I get something useful. 
1 Like
Sorry I can’t understand
What do you not understand?
I just read my question and I think the translator changed the message a bit, that’s why I didn’t understand what you were saying to me, what I wanted to say is that how good the superfoc 6.8 is compared to the other cheap vescs
Ah no worries!
They’re decent, not super good but will work if you respect their limits.
Maytech overestimates their current capacity.
They should work fine with 30 to 40 battery amps and conservative motor amps.
1 Like
So i’m plugging things in for the first time, is there a specific order to do this so that I do not fry anything?
Basically just do your battery hook up last, so long as nothing has power you aren’t running any risk of anything shorting or having power delivered to it with no where to go, in general you can disconnect things like the ESC from the motor while things have power but it is a bit risky since can end up getting shorting between phase wires coming out of the ESC or other issues. Basically just power things down before plugging things in and futzing around in general and will be safer, when you don’t have 50V with tons of amps at the ready you run way less risk of anything going wrong (basically 0V = 0 risk) once you apply power that’s when the magic smoke escapes (so long as nothing shorted or reverse polarity generally magic smoke stays in the electronics but YMMV)
Also generally speaking most of the parts for the skateboard (ESC, receiver etc.) only need 5V you can supply with USB from computer or wall, the time when you need battery hooked up is when doing motor detection/configuration at which point the battery power has to be delivered to the motor to test things. Up to that point you can rely on lower voltage (and lower amp supplies/adapters) and not risk much of anything
1 Like
Oh ok, I have a loopkey so I’ll just not plug it in till I have everything setup
1 Like
Another question, I have to change out my esc connector, do I just cut off the part where the heatshrink ends and resolder the new connectors?
Hi!
Is it possible to mount every pully on every Board?
Or is it specific to the trucks?
The tire is clear, but trucks? Is it enought to buy the correct bearings?
Br
In short, no.
You’ll need to be more specific. There are lots of different types of pulleys, all with different requirements.
Some pulleys are pretty much universal, like the bolt-on ones. They don’t need anything special regarding trucks, because they don’t interact with them at all.
Press-fit pulleys with a support bearing generally need an extended axle or a turned-down area on the truck for the support bearing to sit on.
2 Likes
Yup just lop them off nothing really special to the connectors, they are just big enough bullets to carry required amps. I like the mr-60 from amass though soldering into the slightly smaller bullets so close to each other isn’t super easy it comes out nice and clean. Ideally stick to female side on the esc since power coming out of there usually you want female plugs for power coming out since harder to short those than male side, male side takes power in ideally.
Only thing to take caution on is if cutting battery wires do one at a time and tape back anything not being worked on otherwise can short power through your tool (easier than you think and fast it will spot weld your cutters in an instant and the short is bad for the battery health on top of it)… So yah one at a time if work on live wires or battery.
1 Like
Okay, just checking since I wasn’t sure, they came with the motor, so I know they will work lol.
Luckily @Skyart warned me of that when I had to splice wires, so good thing I knew
1 Like
No, but it’s probably better if either side is higher, for the front to be higher. For reasons of staying on the deck while braking hard. It really doesn’t matter very much either way though.
It hits hard in the “looks / appearance” department though…
1 Like
