there’s my issue, I’m only looking at skate shops haha. bam specialized spacers right there for me.
I have been using 3d printed spacers for my mtb (since the ones from trampa didn’t fit). Been a year or so. No problem whatsoever, one side (bearing side) has deformed a little but nothing to worry about.
1 Like
I also just printed out a 10mm spacer, in total I printed 2x 23mm spacers for the front wheels and 4x 10mm spacers for between bearings. All 10.5mm ID for a decently snug fit on the axles.
Still surprising not seeing a 10mm ID 14mm OD spacer, everything is 16mm OD. Looked on McMaster as well and they only had 16mm OD as well. Probably doesn’t matter too much but I just wanted that size.
u r asking in the wrong thread
4 Likes
Hi, got some questions regarding motors and their kv.
I want to buy gear drives (and probably new motors) running 12S and 175/200mm tires.
The options are:
- 140kv with 1:3.95 gear ratio (45.5km/h - 52.0km/h)
- 170kv with 1:4.60 gear ratio (47.4km/h - 54.2km/h)
- 190kv with 1:5.20 gear ratio (46.9km/h - 53.6km/h)
What is better and why?
Cheers
2 Likes
Continuing the discussion from Noob question thread! 2020_Summer:
Hello
Wondering if anyone knows what could this be?
Already check everything but the clicking noise only happens when accelerating with load. Everything looks ok.
Okay, so the way I understood things the high KV high gear ratio motor would be the most efficient, provided your ESC can take the erpm.
but it you scroll up a bit you’ll see that I am a total noob, so take with a grain (or bucket) of salt
1 Like
Under most circumstances, the difference between these will probably be small enough to be unnoticeable - at most a 2.2km/h difference isn’t even 5%.
Generally with the types of motors we use, and the speeds we drive them to, and the battery voltages we run, the 190KV motors are a bit more efficient and thus can deliver a bit more power, and the higher gearing helps with smooth startups under load and on hills and such.
That said, a 190KV motor at 12s results in a maximum ERPM above the maximum safe limit for v4.x vesc or vesc-derivative hardware, so you should stick with v6.x hardware.
2 Likes
Its okay if we software limit the erpm on 4.x hardware right? IIRC that number is 60k>. I think I set my Xenith to 55k or 50k just to be safe.
2 Likes
190Kv. You will have less heat in the motor and less zero-rpm cogging / sensor issues.
1 Like
Don’t adjust those “maximum erpm” numbers because it disables your brakes above that. That’s really more for airplane / propeller use. (“cut my throttle and brakes above speed X”) You should adjust the duty cycles instead.
Well, frying the ESC would also disable brakes, so he should do both 
No, you should not lower the maximum erpm number from the default for esk8 use. Read the duty cycle stuff I linked, and you can set a limit that doesn’t cut your brakes off.
If you are making an aircraft, the maximum erpm would be a lot more useful.
1 Like
I guess you’re right that limiting max duty cycle would render the ERPM limit useless, but I don’t see the harm in setting that to be at the hardware limits anyway.
1 Like
Is there a way to set a minimum start speed in the vesc tool? So you have to push first and only then the throttle works?
2 Likes
How do I attach Hobbywing motors to a vesc they have this weird 9pin connector
Hello everyone, I’m alive. So. Few questions to ask. Finally got my carbon fiber situated, based on the size of the deck. 11 (width) 44 (length) is two cups of epoxy and one cup hardener good enough for the two layers? Another one is, what’s more safer. I’m using unidirectional so is the sand / cutting easier then traditional carbon fiber? And I won’t have to worry about the dust as people have said in some threads, is wet sanding necessary?
always worry about the dust
2 Likes
What’s the best way to minimize it