Dunno, considering selling some though. I fucked around & didn’t have Timo send me my kahua mounts in time and now he’s fully gone. I can’t blame him, it’s w/e. Now I have no mounts, only gear drives, & I want belts for the setup I’d be after.
I believe geometry is exactly the same when it comes to the positioning of things. I’ve ridden both, couldn’t tell any difference.
I lost one side of my makerX dv6 and looks like the DRV8301 is blown. Is it possible to find replacement? How difficult is it to replace? Is it worth trying to fix or should I just move on?
Kahuas ride a bit closer to a Paris truck than a Caliber. Boardnamics are in essence a Caliber style truck, and this is reflected in the bushing seats as well.
Kahuas are generally a bit more flowy, and they are a bit narrower.
They were, to me, the most perfect electric longboard truck. I have them on my Sportster, just sold a whole lot of the Haggydrive, and have one more set that I’m keeping for parts in case my Sportster needs repair.
We lost something really special when they went out. A real shame.
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Damn. I’m wanting to sell my Haggy drive train, am in need of the cash to fund other builds & can’t make the Haggy work on anything I’m wanting without a bit of slightly sketchy modification to them.
Don’t want to let go of them because unobtainable & I may eventually want to use them, but ugh.
Also - motherfuckers are heavy as shiiit
I’m in the process of trying to discharge some batteries, but once I get down to like 10-20 millivolts, it doesn’t seem to want to get lower; and after connecting them to a resistor again later, the voltage actually increases since it was last connected; why is this, and how can I get the cell to go down to 0?
Need some help getting the settings right in VESCtool. Confusing at the same time if I’m putting the right info in
At that low a voltage it’s hard to push any current through even a low resistance connection. Also, are you sure you are able to accurately measure voltages that low?
It can take a long time to remove all of the charge from a cell, even with its terminals short-circuited…up to a couple of days. It’s not easy to get every ion out of every nook and cranny when there is so little voltage available to get the work done.
You’re pulling out the easily accessible ions near the terminals so the voltage reads very low. When you stop the discharge though the ions in the cell are left with an uneven distribution. Because of this they slowly rearrange themselves to even out the voltage across the cell. This increases the voltage at the terminals and so you read a higher voltage when you check later.
I have to ask though, why are you trying to discharge them at all? If for disposal you can just tape the terminals and bring them to the recycler. If you insist on discharging them there is no appreciable energy left below about 2.5V to cause any problems with. You don’t need to go to zero volts.
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What esc are you using again?
Those lipos can do 135a theoretically (lipo manufacturers tend to inflate their numbers).
Assuming it’s a single drive, you could set it @ 50a (depending on esc) and be fine.
Again, this all depends on the esc.
Flipsky 4.12. For now it’s not the ESC I’m going to be sticking with so I’ll be dropping it to 30A or 25A even to be safe. Just need to make sure the discharge rate and everything is good so nothing blows up lol
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Flipsky 412 can handle up to 50a on 10s (have a few on 10s @ 50a myself). 12s, you might want to drop it 10-20a just to be safe. Last time I put 50a through a FS 4.12 on 12s, it popped.
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I’m running with lipos in series to make 10s. Know anything about this? I’m getting everything ready for spring next year just need to make sure it’s all correct
I’d you’re only wanting to discharge to 3.7v a cell then it’s set right.
Battery under voltage is the lowest you want the 2 lipos in series to reach. So 10s is 42v max. @ 3.7v a cell you’re looking @ 37v.
Lipos can ho below that. I usually ran my lipos to about 3.3v a cell. That would be 33v on 10s.
Also, 1000mv = 1v
3000mv = 3v
3700mv = 3.7v
And so on.
42500mv = 42.5v you want 4250mv so it’s set to 4.25v. Change everything accordingly
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Oh sorry this might be my fault then, I recommended going down to 0 earlier because “hey there’s still some energy left, might as well get rid of it to be safe”
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Most of the usual electronic component retailers (Mouser, Digikey, etc) normally stock them, as does Texas Instruments’ own website. Unfortunately due to the current chip shortage they’re all out of stock with several months lead time at the moment (late April 2022 at Mouser)
it requires you to be reasonably skilled at SMD repair, and you either need a hotplate, reflow oven, or a hot air station because there’a a large ground pad on the underside of the package that is critical for operation.
A DRV8301 costs about $6-8. Lots cheaper than buying a whole new ESC, but as metioned above it requires specialized tools, skills and equipment - If you already have those, it’s a no-brainer. If you don’t, then it depends on how much time, effort and money you’re willing to put upfront.
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Ohhhhh I was under the impression that when you disposed of batteries (at a recycling center) you had to discharge them to 0V 
Since that’s the case I’ll just drop them off tomorrow. Thanks 
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I have 2 hobbywing 5065 motors than ran off a dual 15A esc that no longer works. Assuming I got the polarity correct, would I be able to run both, sensorless, off a single esc rated for much higher current?
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Do you mean another hobbywing ESC or a programmable VESC based ones? I’m asking because if it’s a VESC it should just run motor detection and polarity won’t matter, I don’t know about hobbywing ESCs at all though
For higher current, VESC tool (the software to run motor detection) will give an estimate on what current you can use. I ran a 5065 at 40/50A but not for very long, my money is that 40A should be nice but someone will correct me if I’m wrong
Found these lads at an Aldi, wondering if they would be useful as a rudimentary top mounted box for cheap
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Depends on the price