Some newer hobbywing escs actually have a motor detection built in now. They are still quite limited in terms of compatibility, especially factoring in that not all Prebuilt motors have the same plugs but that’s a minor thing to consider for the diy folk.
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yeah soz it’s in the background but I forgot to add it, €22. It’s medium stiff ABS, got pre-weakened spots to drill for cables, the cables come in and have to go over a shelf before entering the body of the box so if there’s a bit of leakage it stays contained
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Hmmm…
I got this one for 18 bucks. Not the best but looks good.
My main problem with mine is that it doesn’t seem to be really waterproof as i had “water” inside the gasket, since there’s no real pressure on the hinge side.
I have put another d-profile window sealing gasket thingamabob on top of the existing one, now theresuch more pressure.
To those using xt90-m connectors as a loopkey piece, how do you prevent shit from going inside the port and shorting the wires?
There is a sizeable gap all around, but only with the xt90s it seems. Already had water inside and it didn’t even rain.
@BenjaminF @Creavenger and whoever else might use them.
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The bottom of the panel is sealed so the water cant really go into the enclosure. It shouldnt short anything since your loopkey is making a continuity between the pins already, and your loopkey is in series with either your positive or negative cable.
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That is true, I’m also using the same on the cable going from the esc to battery that has positive and negative, which is the one I’m worried about.
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ah yes then its a problem, id recommend trying to seal the connection/edge. Maybe sugru or some soft silicone that can be peeled off if needed.
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Are you using two different types of xt90?
It seems the xt90s is a tad too long for the black xt90 causing that gap.
Iiwm (if it was me) I’d change out the xt90 on the enclosure to the appropriate xt90s.
But if that’s all you have, plug it in, then run some silicone around the gap. Give it enough time to dry but not completely before pulling the key itself. Should leave you with a nice little seal ring.
Xt90e-m that is mounted.
Xt90s as the key/female counterpart.
I believe the problem is that the xt90-m has these flanges on the bullet ends which prevent the xt90s from sitting flush.
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If this is your personal board, follow with me. If it’s not yours personally, disregard.
Remove the enclosure xt90. Might want to unsolder the wires as well. Plug the xt90s in the xt90em. Use your iron to to heat the prongs enough to fully push the xt90s in. Let cool off. Check to make sure the prongs are still seated well. If all is sound, ride off into the sunset.
This sounds like absolute sketch
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A little but I have done this with no fail.
All your trying to do is loosen the plastic’s grip just a little so the prongs will slide.
Use your own judgement though. Again, I’ve done this a couple of times with no fail.
The silicone method will work wonderfully as well if you dont want the other route.
The big fix would be using the right xt90 for the xt90s but its diy so I understand lol
A question that always pops in my head is, how hot do motors get after use? Does the heat mess up the loctite inside the motor mount holes? Does the motor lose more performance if it’s hot? Can this be prevented so the motor can last longer? or the screws aren’t even in the danger zone to be effected by the heat, the motors performance isn’t effected, maybe it’s normal for it to get a little toasty. It’s a dumbass question, I’m not a motor expert so these things would be good to know
You can epoxy a cheap 10k NTC thermistor to the motor windings and plug it into the VESC where the other sensor wires go, then log it to see what’s going on
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@torqueboards direct drives can get hot enough to cook an egg on, all normal functional motors don’t really do that in esk8.
They can get hot enough for you to not want to touch them, but any normal build & riding conditions don’t get anything close to what you need to worry about.
Screw loctite is nothing you need to worry about regarding heat.
If you’re new to esk8, many many other things to worry about with regards to motors that aren’t heat. Heat is just about the last thing you’ll need to worry about in any functional capacity
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I’m using Flipsky, it’s just a general question for knowledge, misread what you said. So motor shouldn’t be concern unless it makes a weird noise or it’s smoking. Looked up loctites melting point and it’s over 450 degrees, don’t think the motor can ever get that hot. Everything else I got either a fuse for or a BMS to monitor the system
Why does everyone seem to use a male XT60 on the board side for charging? Why not a female plug boardside and a male on the charger side?
is this male as in intuitive male or technical pin based) male)
if it’s the battery, you don’t want male (meaning pins on the inside) on the charge/main leads because debris can get in and short, causing boom boom
Male pin go into female hole.
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sex .
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