Beginner Question Thread! 2023 Edition

[SalamToU]

18s 190kv on a d100? I was told that was a good way to shitout your stormcore

[glyphiks]

@SalamToU

stormcore

I believe that would be your problem there.

@Perrystevens

jostling around maybe disconnected the receiver or something

That would definitely be the first thing I checked. I like to splooge hotglue over any/all connections to reduce the chances of such disconnects

[SalamToU]

@glyphiks

splice bottle

You what?

Ahhhh that makes more sense

[glyphiks]

Yeah autocorrect got me

[SalamToU]

I thought it was some fancy battery tip i didnt know cause im acared of batteries

[Egtscs]

@Perrystevens

d100s

@SalamToU

stormcore

Unless there’s a version of the stormcore 100D that I’m unaware of none of them are categorized with an S.

I’m pretty sure he’s referring to the D100S from makerX which does recommend <130kv and <20s as operating limits but I have some doubt motor kv is the problem here.

@glyphiks

That would definitely be the first thing I checked

This is also the first thing I’d check.

[Perrystevens]

Yes makerx is what I was referring to. And I’ll give that a shot, how do you remove the hot glue if you need to service something? Does it peel away pretty easily?

[Egtscs]

@Perrystevens

how do you remove the hot glue if you need to service something? Does it peel away pretty easily?

I use neutral cure silicone for the same purpose, it’s inconvenient but not unserviceable. I suspect hot glue is pretty similar but can’t confirm myself.

[Perrystevens]

How about double sided tape ? Would that be sufficient?

[tech.shit]

Not really, it doesn’t conform to anything. You want to bond the wires and add some strain relief

[Pecos]

Both work well, hot glue is easier to remove and doesn’t last as long imho but that is preferable in some places. My power button - silicone. My buck converter xt30 - hot glue. My phase connection or receiver - silicone. My bms balance wire - hot glue. The bms header connector - silicone. I use both so often switching between the two isn’t an issue for me and i usually have something handy.

I glue all the things down, i have no patience for having to pull things apart because the vibration messed something up

[Venom121212]

Time fixing is less time riding

[Perrystevens]

Just hot glued the electronics down as well as the connections, I’ll let you know if it improves!

[Perrystevens]

That fixed it! Hot glue securing the major connections in place and electrical tape around the xt connectors

[glyphiks]

@Perrystevens

how do you remove the hot glue

Pro tip: isopropyl alcohol on a cotton bud. Dab all around the hot glue trying to get it to soak into the bonded area, wait 10 seconds, bob’s your auntie.

[Perrystevens]

@Egtscs

which does recommend <130kv

Any idea what happens if I keep it on 190kv? I don’t have any other KV motors and budget is kinda spent on the rest of the board, I don’t plan on going above like 30mph, and I can’t go anywhere near the max setting on this board, it’s terrifying.

[Egtscs]

@Perrystevens

what happens if I keep it on 190kv?

(Obligatory not an expert)

I believe the primary risk is based on excessive Erpm
(Which is different from RPM)

@system

ERPM (Electrical RPM)

This is how you use motor KV and battery voltage to define the ERPM value. Remember this, its the holy grail of VESC configuration values.

KV * Max Voltage * 7 = ERPM

Example: 190 KV * 42.0v (10S) * 7 = 55,860 ERPM
Example: 260 KV * 25.2v (6S) * 7 = 45,864 ERPM

Why is ERPM important? The short answer is that all VESC’s and VESC based ESC’s have an ERPM limit, you want to stay below this limit or you’ll be the proud owner of a $200 + charcoal briquette. A standard 4.12 VESC has an ERPM limit of 60k, the FocBox/Unity and VESC 6 can go up to 80k per some sources but its (IMHO) better to stay at or below the industry defined spec of 60k.

I believe @Dinnye has ran (and blown up) several D100s’s in his Raceboi build.
Do keep in mind that this board is also constantly pushed to all of it’s limits. The majority of riders (me included) don’t push their controllers as hard as @Dinnye does.

[Perrystevens]

His build is insane, ya I think I’ll be fine with the 190kv then. Appreciate you explaining all that, I may need to switch to a lower kv eventuall though.

Another issue I’m dealing with now is belt slippage, since it’s a bigger battery and more torque. I could add an idler bearing to increase teeth contact with the belt or I could do a chain drive or even a gear drive. Any recommendations?

[Egtscs]

@Perrystevens

Another issue I’m dealing with now is belt slippage, since it’s a bigger battery and more torque.

Yep, I’m familiar, I think belts are better utilized at lower power levels.
My Boardy McBoardface was using 15mm wide belts for a while and while they kinda worked with idlers on both sides and substantial tension, however it created unnecessary wear on my motors and I was getting 100mi out of a pair of belts if I was lucky, that was at 12s 2wd 80a/motor. My pre built zealot on the other hand (12s 15a/motor) has used the same belts for the past 700 miles and they’re only now starting to slip.

What trucks are you using? That does quite a bit to define what drivetrain options you have. Chains are cool and can be pretty inexpensive to start but IMO, a decent gear drive is a good investment, especially when you reach the level of power where belts become insufficient.

[Dinnye]

@Egtscs

I believe @Dinnye has ran (and blown up) several D100s’s in his Raceboi build.

I only blew up one personally. It’s not just ERPM they don’t like, it’s also spinning unloaded. If you spin them up unloaded, do burnouts, or go over a large crack with throttle, they sometimes just blow up. This is because ERPM changes too quickly and the ESC can’t keep up.

@Perrystevens Going lower KV is a good way to minimize the chances of it blowing up. It wasn’t fun cleaning up all that mess

If I open the box it still smells awful half an year later.