I’m probably wrong, I read DV4S rather than DV4, my mistake.
I cannot confirm or deny that the DV4 has a built in anti-spark.
Personally I’d still prefer using a loopkey because they’re almost as reliable as the wire you use with them (at 12s) while being more repairable than a “proper” anti spark switch. That said, I wouldn’t blame you if you prefer the function and form of a working switch over having to use a loopkey.
It’s generally less effort to replace a broken AS switch with a loopkey than it is the other way around.
First off, leave the normal connector on the VESC, the VESC should have an XT90 male which should have the pins exposed like this:
The XT90S (anti spark version) only comes in a female connector where the male side pins are inserted when the connector is connected:
(XT90S female on the left, XT90 male on the right.)
An XT90S (or even the non anti spark female version) should be placed on the battery to avoid any risk of a battery short if the pins are damaged.
These are all different ways to turn on and off your vesc during/after use.
With an anti spark switch on your battery, you’ll be capable of plugging in your battery to turn on your board but that creates a sub-par experience having to remove an enclosure just to turn the board on. An external anti spark switch like the flipsky one you mentioned is the most elegant option but has a higher risk of failure compared to a loopkey. Also when loopkeys fail they are generally repairable with comparatively low effort.
All of these methods are different ways to manage power to your VESC, I’m biased towards loopkeys since I’m generally more concerned about function over form. A loopkey creates a pretty reliable physical way to disconnect your battery while being at risk of killing your battery if you forget the loopkey inside your board, a built in AS creates a very low power draw “sleep mode” that uses very little power, (unless you’re using a ubox, actual numbers on power draw in sleep mode) I’m not entirely confident in how an external anti spark switch works, that’s likely a better question for somebody smarter than me.
This is awesome! Thanks for sharing man
What is the current carrying capacity of one spot weld?
So the situation is near resolved, i got the p group lower welded and charged back up. I have do decide if i want to discharge it or plug the charger in to finish the charge and balance, what do you think?
Welcome. Just be sure about mounting position. Check pictures or short video. Joint must be up. Main reason is that on upper side it is protected agai crash
It’s widely accepted/assumed that a weld will carry about 5a
I’m back again for another question, everything’s put together and I wanted to make sure everything’s working, I spun the motors and noticed one side spins more then the other or if I have the throttle at a certain point the right motor stops spinning while the main motor keeps spinning, they only stay spinning when the throttles full
A small discrepancy is pretty normal but this does seem substantial, are your motor/battery current settings the same on each side?
Yea I got 35 amps on both sides for motors and -35 amps motor current max brake battery’s the same
I would start with a test ride, things can act funky unloaded and small discrepancies within the motor and drive train are exacerbated by running things unloaded. If you can feel a difference in power while riding there may be a separate cause.
Alright I’ll give that a try, ig my concern was that it would act funky while riding and possibly result in an accident but I’ll give that a go and see if it fixes it
That is strange, I’ve seen differences in motors when they start turning but not when they are already running.
Yea idk if I should check the remote settings and see if that side is 100% throttling, I’m not sure what to do
My motors will slow and stop if i fuck with the throttle enough unloaded, but all my bearings are basically shot, so that could be an easy explanation 
new or used motors? Maybe some dirt n shit in them?
I thought I would hop on Vesctool and make sure all my motor settings are correct, some weren’t and I rewrote it to make sure, no difference. I’m not sure if this is correct since I’m using 2 5s 8000mAh CNHL lipos in series but it’s just based on what I followed on Mikes video, the one motor I had before I got the second one has been used since I built the board a few years ago so not sure if that’s the problem or what
Hey I am wondering if it is ok to use 21700 4500 mah and 21700 3000mah together for. 49ers board I am working on? I charge lipos of different capacitance on parallel board for fpv so I’m just checking to see if it would be ok for this
Using two different capacity packs in parallel will cause problems long term. You’ll have instances of one pack recharging the other (in specific scenarios)
Not necessarily if they are permanently connected in parallel.
It’s definitely not advisable to do, but I can’t see why it’s inherently wrong.
There are a number of factors to take into consideration if you choose to do it and if you don’t already know what those considerations are, I’d recommend not venturing there.
In the interest of keeping things educational, our lord and saviour @Battery_Mooch headed an excellent conversation here —> Here’s what can happen when you parallel (mix) different cells in a pack
Just tested the board I built for the first time, absolutely insane.18s6p molicel, d100s, 6375 190kv, Hoyt puck, and flipsky BT module.
I tried it at a park on grass in case I fell and it did this weird thing. When I road over bumpier areas the Hoyt puck would disconnect but my BT would stay connected, so my vesc didn’t lose power but something about the ride/bumps influenced my recover.
I’m guessing all the jostling around maybe disconnected the receiver or something? But it would reconnect if I turned the board on and off,
Anyone have any ideas?