RaceBoi: Tito Duality, Tomiboi Hellhound, 21S4P, 4WD 6395+6385, BN straight cuts, 9x3.5s, D100S (formerly RaceBro)

I’m super excited to share my ever-evolving race board to you all in a running build thread format. This thread has been growing a lot over the past year of constant rebuilds and refinements, reaching close to 500 posts by the end of 2024.

Huge thanks to @tuckjohn for nominating this build for BOTY 2024. It’s time to make this thread readable for those who either got lost on the way during the endless updates or just now finding out about this build, by giving a structured overview of what happened over the past year or so, and where you can find certain things in the thread. Both important part changes / rebuilds, and important race updates will be highlighted. 500 posts cannot be shortened easily into a 10-15 minute read, but I’ll try my best.


Phase one - RaceBro on BN channels (2024 March - 2024 May)

The year started out with me wanting a proper a race board for the racing season of 2024, as my previous mountainboard build wasn’t exactly up to the task. I loved that board and it’s what got me to start racing seriously, but it needed so many upgrades to actually be competitive that I decided to start from scratch. Meet the RaceBro, a raceboard originally intended to be suitable on track, suitable in the woods, and suitable to ride in the streets.

This board was built on a short deadline, I only started shopping for parts late January, every part came in by late February, and the build was finished in around 10 days of super hard work. Middle of March the racing season started in Prague - but by that time I had to finish a rebuild of my previous mountainboard and a newbee link board for my friends so they could come with me.

Specs
  • My trusty 2021 stiff Haero Bro deck
  • Keeping the F5 bindings and heels from the previous board
  • BN310 channel trucks with an M1-AT straight cut 5.2 gear drive
  • MBS Rockstar Pro II XL rims - with a 3D printed widening spacer
  • 9x3.5 slick gokart like tyres for the ultimate asphalt grip and a set of 9x3.5 turf tyres for offroad grip
  • 21S4P P42A pack built by myself
  • The most overkill fast charger that you can imagine - adjustable voltage and current up to 92.4V 34A (until it got replaced by a 45A one for absolutely no good reason :crazy_face:)
  • MakerX D100S with a small external heatsink, pointing down towards the bottom of the enclosure
  • Placed inside a pelican storm im2050
  • Reacher 6395 v6 175KV motors @180A hopefully
  • GT2E remote because I wanted to try trigger and because fuck Flispky and their VX1s that tried to kill me

Scroll through posts 2-49 to learn more about the build process, it was explained with a lot of pictures and detail. Below is a picture of this iteration of the board, right after being finished.

Then post 49-77 is mostly about small tweaks and trying to figure out stability.

Prague race update (2024 March)

The time finally came to go to Prague, with a half tweaked-in board. I had a ton of fun, but stability issues with the trucks became apparent, and after this day, I wasn’t pushing high speeds on traditional channels anymore. But it also reinforced me in that I want to continue racing at a high level.

Post 78.

Some further tweaking

Post 79-134 just talks about the small tweaks I’ve been doing on the board, trying to get it more stable, and trying fix the software config, and then a couple small race updates on T-race and the 0-20 mph drag times.

At this point I upped the amps to 200 per motor, and did a decent 0-20 time on the 9x3.5 slicks.

In the meantime I climbed up to 11th place on the T-race leaderboard with a combined time of 28.24s.

Breaking bindings

Post 135-159 is bindings talks that was iniated by me breaking my bindings for the 4 time in total, but more worryingly for the 3rd time within a 3 month period.

Cyborg gloves

Post 160-179 is experimenting with the idea of a GT2E remote mod, that retains trigger control but adds slide puck usage possibilities while controlling throttle. This was scrapped due to causing a fall that wouldn’t have happened with a regular setup.

Then in post 179 you can see how I achieved kinda the same endgoal with much less complexity.

Blowing up a D100S

Post 180-194 is about me blowing up my ESC. This brings the end to phase one of the board.


Phase 2 - resurrection on Duality trucks (2024 May - 2024 September)

Post 195 to 210 the rebuild is in progress with Duality trucks and a replacement ESC graciously provided by MakerX.

These trucks were the single best upgrade I could’ve possible gotten to the board. The truck feel on traditional channels that I ran previously were lacking, even though I had nice CNC machined ones on Riptide thane. And these immediately felt like what I imagined from the beginning when the idea of this board formulated in my head. And oh man, after I started tinkering with them they got even better!

They allow a ton of lean, they are stable, they feel great to carve on APS bushings (and for people who aren’t low rebound fanatics on Kranks), and great to race on WFB bushings, more on that later. If you aren’t convinced that you need them in your life just yet, go read through my whole thread post by post from the start of phase 2. You’ll be convinced by the time you finish reading.

Posts 211-254 are about me enjoying and tweaking the new trucks.

Waldshut race updates (2024 June)

By this point, the build was really starting to come together, and it was an awesome setup to race on. It was also my first podium of the year, results finally started to show.

At this point @TZDKB planted the idea of WFB bushings in my head, which I tried soon after the race, being super impressed with the pure performance they offered.

After the race before taking the tyres off, I did another 0-20 drag time, being geared for more power than the tires can handle. This put phase 2 of the board on the 4th place of the drag leaderboard.

Post 255-259.

Preparation work for Phase 3 (2024 July)

Post 259-277 I already had some of the parts arrive for Phase 3, and had some parts arrive Phase 3’s sisterbuild as well. I was working on my tire setup, truck mounting, and binding mounting.

WFB bushings are real deal for racing (2024 July)

By this point I finally put in set of WFB’s to see how they feel, and damn I was impressed. Straight line stability and stability while racing have never been better. But at the same time, turning has never been easier. I was swapping from APS, which is already a middle ground between Krank (what most people run) and WFB. First corner while racing I was so surprised by the ease of turning that I stood the board up on two wheels by exerting too much force deep into the lean - these just don’t tighten up if you lean deep the way other bushings do. I did a couple writeups about how impressed I was, I recommend giving them a read - both in this thread and in the Duality trucks sales thread. Be warned though - for carving they don’t feel as satisfying. They make everything easy. Perhaps too easy if you don’t like pushing the limit constantly.

Working on Phase 3 again while also working on the sisterboard (2024 August)

Post 279-297

Balaton Karika updates and Phase 3’s sisterboard build (2024 August)

First I needed to finish up my friend’s build which is basically the same as my builds late 2024 revision to make it to the group rides. We were so late, we only finished for the second day of the 3 day event, then having to setup VESC in the blazing sun when the others started the ride… Was not fun. Even though I’ve learnt previously to always click at least 3 times on the read button when changing CAN sides, apparently that wasn’t enough. Now I read 4 times… Anyways, somehow 2 ESCs ended up on the same CAN ID, and I was trying to debug it while running out of laptop battery barely being able to see the screen at all in the sun. Not recommended. But we somehow got it working without figuring out the root of the issue at the time, so we just rolled with it.

Post 298. It starts out with the build of my friend’s board, and continues with the event. This was a 3 day event, that started with a small race, then followed by a 200km+ group ride around Lake Balaton in Hungary.

Montrevel updates (2024 August)

Post 314-317. I was really hoping I’ll be finished with the 4WD conversion for this race, but I just couldn’t make it due to my university reexam (which left me 24 hours until a 1400km+ drive to finish it and rest). So I was rolling on 2WD.

My tires just wasn’t up to the task on this surface, therefore I was just fighting to stay in 1st category. This made me rethink my reliance on the 9x3.5s, and I ordered a set of Linnpower slicks afterwards as an easy solution - and a couple other tire projects are in the works for Phase 4.


Phase 3 - RaceBoi - the 4WD conversion (2024 September - 2025 esk8con :eyes:)

Post 318-323 the long overdue rebuild was finally finished up to the stage that I can start using it again. And 4WD didn’t disappoint on track. You can have all the acceleration power you want with 2WD, but you simply don’t have the grip to brake hard, and it results on significantly lower top speeds on track and a time loss.

The new spec sheet
  • Tomiboi Hellhound deck, truck holes drilled further outward, carbon on the bottom
  • Tito Duality trucks
  • F5 bindings and heelstraps
  • MBS Rockstar Pro II XL hubs
  • 9x3.5 slicks and Linnpower slicks depending on the occasion
  • 21S4P P42A
  • 45A adjustable charger
  • 2x D100S
  • new pelican storm im2050
  • 5.2 ratio straight cut BN drives
  • Reacher 6395 v6 175KV in the rear
  • Reacher 6385 v5 173KV in the front
  • GT2E remote

JumpBro - another RaceBro resurrection

After having the 4WD conversion finished, I was left with a bunch of nice parts from RaceBro, that I just couldn’t let sit… So I immediately started planning my offroad build JumpBro, which got it’s own thread once new parts started arriving.

That board while is operational and has a battery in it currently, isn’t truly finished yet as it’s dedicated battery will only be finished in 2025. And it’s getting a set of Dualities after esk8con as well. This however finally makes sure that I have a nice off-roader build, that I’ll actually take out into the woods. RaceBro was originally intended for this purpose as well, but was just too heavy, and I was lazy to constantly change tires, so it had very few offroad sessions.

Tweaking the 4WD and regular T-race updates (2024 September)

Post 324-343. By the end of it, I got down in the 13.xx on T-race, and ready to fight for podium in the next race.

Pardubice vol2 2024 race updates (2024 September)

Posts 344-356. At this race, results started showing again - and this time on the 9x3.5s, as although I ordered Linnpower slicks, they arrived one day late because they got stuck for a week in customs.

A second place on the podium was a good result, which was only reinforced by the Kartplanet session before I started driving back to Denmark - where I jumped all the way up to 2nd in the all time rankings, with a 51.99 lap time.

Getting the Linnpowers fitted and some serious T-race results (2024 October)

Post 357-423. These tyres catapulted my ranking on T-race all the way to 3rd place on the podium, with a 12.82 toeside and 13.27 heelside time, before the bad weather came.

Cologne track update (2024 October)

Post 424.

@TZDKB got a follow cam video of chasing me

And by this time I bought an insta 360 so I have some selfie stick footage as well

Pitland preparations (2024 November)

Posts 439-449. I made a (shitty) tire warmer, softened up the tires, went to 37.5/12.5 truck angles.

Pitland season finals (2024 November)

Posts 450-455. I started out very strong in the first heat, grabbing first place for a bit, but then my endurance couldn’t keep up. Doesn’t help that I couldn’t practise for a month due to the weather. Finished 6th. Then we ran a position race where people ahead of me made mistakes, and I ended up on 2nd place there. It was not the important race, but a podium is a podium nevertheless.

Brainstorming future setups (2024 December)

Posts 456-463. Some actual race gokart slicks are in the works for 2025, along with a further dropped chassis, delivering something like a power steering effect (see the new SRB lineup).

Hope it was concise enough to be readable in one go :sweat_smile: I’ll try to keep this updated in the future as well. There’s already a ton of stuff planned for Phase 4, lets just say I’m excited for 2025.

16 Likes

I am super excited to share my latest creation with you all. Still in progress but I expect to finish it this week. The build thread will be a rolling build thread. I will put all the progress into the replies and update the first post once the build is finished.

The reason this board exists, is because I want a jack of all trades board so to speak. Something that performs while racing. Something that performs out in the woods. Something that has way too much power. Something that looks kinda decent. I wanted to stay on the mountainboard platform, as I am very comfortable with Matrix IIs on riptide bushings. I do wish for more power and speed than my previous mountainboard, so I am selling most of those parts to a friend and I am building a new board basically.

Specs:

  • My trusty 2021 stiff Haero Bro deck. It’s my favourite deck by a long shot.
  • Keeping the F5 bindings and heels from the previous board too.
  • BN310 channel trucks with an M1-AT straight cut 5.2 gear drive
  • MBS Rockstar Pro II XL rims - with a 3D printed widening spacer
  • 9x3.5 slick gokart tyres for the ultimate asphalt grip and a set of 9x3.5 turf tyres for offroad grip
  • 21S4P P42A pack built by myself
  • The most overkill fast charger that you can imagine - adjustable voltage and current up to 92.4V 34A
  • MakerX D100S with a small external heatsink, pointing down towards the bottom of the enclosure
  • Placed inside a pelican storm im2050
  • Reacher 6395 v6 175KV motors @180A hopefully
  • GT2E remote because I wanted to try trigger and because fuck Flispky and their VX1s that tried to kill me
  • Some clever cable management ideas stolen from @Shadowfax’s 4wd lacroix, more on that later


I went a little overboard with the speed to be honest, as I am mostly racing short track. Don’t think I will push it past 40mph but we will see. Got a bit carried away by the HV trend. 16k RPM at no load 4.2V per cell. Once I have my CNC up and running I’m probably going to machine a set of (straight cut, steel) gear drives somewhere around 1:7-1:8. 1.5kN would be sweeeeeet. That won’t happen until the summer though, probably. And 1kN is still very nice until then.

This is also the fastest build that I’ve done so far. Started shopping mid January, will have the last parts in by tomorrow. I started building last Friday, and I expect to finish the board this Thursday.

Here’s some phase 1 after completion pictures

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I will start with the tyres and the rims. On this build I wanted to use 9x3.5s, which are super wide.
Note: these only fit hubs that have a 4" lip.


Meet the CST C190 9x3.50-4, right next to a standard clever 200x50. Now that’s a difference. This also meant, that widening the rims was not just a plus, but a requirement even.

So I designed widening spacers for my MBS rockstar pro ii xl’s, that I printed out. These use the locking feature of the hub, with a decently tight press fit fit, which should help keeping the tyre run true. I would like to get them machined out on a CNC mill one day out of alu.


The slick CSTs are the most balanced tyres I’ve had so far, but the clever turf tyres are a little wobbly at speed.


Both of them grip really well, and both are really heavy. Sadly it makes jumping significantly more effort, especially as I am still recovering from a sprained ankle.

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Dude - this thing is SICK!

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At that wheel size you should be closer to 228mm no? So even more top speed lol.

I’m curious if you’ll be able to fit 180 motor amps. I’m guessing you can’t gear down anymore?

I really like the ZMote single trigger if you’re willing to give that a try.

Beast of a build here man.

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Next up, the battery.

First I had to figure out the layout. Only a stagger pack could fit 21S4P into the peli 2050.


Then onto gluing the cells and applying all the tapes

Then onto soldering the 8AWG terminal, and welding the nickel

Next up is the balance wiring


And it fits perfectly.

I just need to solder on a QS8 and heatshrink the whole thing

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Thank you! I am super excited to have it finally come together! I took some inspiration with the cable management for the phase wires from your lacroix :wink: I can’t wait to share that too

On paper yes, but it actually measures around 210mm inflated without any weight on it. With weight I think it should be closer to 205mm

I hope I can do 180A. The 95s are super beefy and the 175KV is also pretty high. Should handle similar amps to the 205KV 85s. The D100S should be also fine when exposed to some air hopefully. I would love to gear down more but I am already at 5.2 and I need a closed gear drive. I’ll make it happen one day. I need a 1:8 ratio though. I expect to have a CNC up and running around the summer, I will mill a gear drive out on that.

I’ve already bought a GT2E for the build that I am probably going to print a smaller case for. So far I like it but we will see. It’s a good option that’s for sure

Thanks, I appreciate it :slight_smile:

Looking sick, I’ve always wondered about gokart tires on esk8 haha

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I’m stoked to see what you’re doing, and I gotta give credit to @poastoast - the ESC under battery strategy (and phase wires footpad) was all his idea.

180a puts that motor at 9.8nM max torque, which seems very plausible for a 6396 motor. (even tho it’s above reacher’s max torque spec of 6.5nM.) I believe that reacher way under spec the torque for whatever reason, but it is rated to 10kw for power at 75v :grin:

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Regarding the cable management I am also going to have the D100S below the battery, and it’s going to be heatsinked. I printed a channel out of TPU to go under my feet (and avoid the bindings). I’m going to stack the rest of the area with some foam to leave a tiny bit of W and put some griptape over.

Then I also printed out a piece that goes over the antisinks, and uses the spring adjusting holes on the deck to mount. Here the cable will get passed under the deck and to the motors.

Here you can see the two prints in action. I still need to wire up the box and assemble the gear drive, before making the actual wiring, but this gives an idea about how it will look.

I’ll probably reprint the cover over the trucks once I get some black filament, I don’t really like the color, but this is my last roll of filament that I am actually able to print decently :smile:

More pictures on this once I have the box finished and the mechanics assembled, so that I can decide on the final wire length

7 Likes

Thanks! The tyres are great :smile: These are the same ones that @Swol_Moon uses. I’ll get to T-race them properly soon and try to find their limit. So far I had a 10 minute session and did 15.43s as a starting point on my old board, while being low on charge and hitting top speed. I definitely need to learn to lean in more with these than with the 200x50s.

Very well said! I am excited to put them to the test.

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I personally think I like the 8x3’s better unless you’re pushing to the absolute limits. The 9x3.5’s have a super stiff sidewall that you start to notice after a bit on an imperfect track.

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This build is amazing.

Did you have to swap out the axles for something longer to fit the widened hubs?

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@Dinnye


i don’t got pics of my most recent layout, but it’s pretty similar, just with like a TON more blue wire for the hall sensors

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You are such a masochist making your hall sensor wires all the same color :rofl:

Ah these the new 96 icic. Yeah we need more testers on these motors lol. Nice.

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Interesting. On the track the stiff sidewall is a pro I think. They feel super predictable, and they don’t really flex sideways like the 200x50s that I had before. But I only had 10 minutes of time riding them, and it was all on a smooth and grippy parking lot.

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Fuck it, I’m in.

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Thank you :slight_smile:

Actually I haven’t widened the bearing spacing at all. It’s still on the standard MBS bearing spacing, and even fits on matrix IIs!

You can see it on this picture that this hub has both bearings on the inner piece, this is why it’s possible to widen it but keep the spacing. Just needs longer screws and that’s it.

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Oh man, so much heat into the negative end of that first cell group :grimacing: