Another Bro - Haero Bro, BN M1-AT, FS BH 6384, 12S6P 30T, heatsinked DV6, Matrix II on Riptides

This build has seen it’s early form back in September 2022, but I just finished Phase 2 of it:

Part list:

  • Haero Bro 2021 deck

  • MBS F5 bindings with new ladder straps after I managed to break one :sweat_smile:

  • BN M1-AT gear drives with 5.2 ratio excessively greased into oblivion with Red N Tacky. Must. Be. Waterproof. Denmark weather is not that nice, especially on the coastline where I live…

  • FS BH 6384 motors in the 170KV variant, one dead hall sensor

  • Metal Matrix II with Radium adapters and Lacroix Hypertruck bushings from Riptide - currently running white in the front and red in the rear. Had to file out a bit from the baseplate to avoid motor bite, hope it will hold up :grimacing: I also have an Etoxx adjustable baseplate but the Riptide bushings pop out of the their place with that - though those baseplates would mostly fix the motor bite issue on the baseplate

  • Rockstar II hubs

  • MBS T3 tires

  • 12S6P 30T battery with an LLT BMS that I made myself. Far from my prettiest battery but safety or current capability wise there’s zero compromises. And it doesn’t have to be the prettiest, as it’s only for personal use. Also it’s one of the first battery packs that I’ve made.

  • charged by the Radium 12S 12A charger

  • MakerX DV6 running 90A motor 75A battery, and -90A motor -30A battery per side. Pretty respectable acceleration and power due to the low top speed I must say :smiley: But I will probably grow into it quickly. Due to a dead motor sensor running Silent HFI coupled v0 v7 45 degree or whatever it’s called. Feels good, there can sometimes be a very minimal amount of cogging on startups or when changing directions. Ways better than running no sensors.

  • Heatsink - I cut a hole into the pelicase knockoff enclosure and jbwelded in a heatsink. The jbweld didn’t end up looking that pretty, but hopefully it won’t start separating like the epoxy did on phase 1. There’s also an adapter plate between the heatsink and the ESC. Right now in the winter thermal performance is phenomenal. With that said I didn’t push the board too hard just yet. But I am sure that with the current setup motors will be the bottleneck as far as temps go, not the ESC.

  • Flipsky VX1 remote

  • Got a Metr Pro going into the board soon

Phase 1 was basically the same board just with a smaller enclosure with a 10S2P 40T inside and using the original Matrix bushings.

The specs

Weighs 19.5kg, jumping is doable but not the easiest thing to do.

Have yet to do a range test. Top speed is… I don’t have numbers yet but let’s say adequate. At this point I don’t want to go faster in bindings, and as long as I ride offroad any faster would be getting significantly more dangerous. In the long term however I could probably use more on roads. Or it would be nice to be able to downsize tires for track racing, without sacrificing so much top speed. In the current low temperature nearly always wet climate of Denmark, I don’t need more torque, I simply wouldn’t be able to put it all down. With that said with warmer tires and warm dry weather, I could probably use a bit more after getting used to the setup.

Current issues:

  • Getting some cutoffs. I would love to say it’s because of FW6 and me not having setup slow ABS overcurrent correctly, but it first happened on my last ride when the board was in the phase 1 state. Since then I changed half of the bullet connectors (one looked deformed), but I don’t know if I need to change the other half of them as well, or the problem will disappear by setting slow ABS overcurrent to true. Didn’t manage to test it yet.

  • The ESC cannot spin up one of the motors from standstill at all, I don’t know why. Just cogs for a bit and that’s it. But while riding it’s behaving completely fine and the temps between the two sides are similar. :man_shrugging: No idea what’s going on here.

  • Motor resistance values has gone up when updating to FW6 from FW5.1. Both sides have gone up by a similar margin though, so probably just the way detection is done was changed. And I haven’t seen a similar post from anyone else, so thought I would mention it.

  • Phase wire extension length was designed for the previous enclosure - not ideal for the new enclosure which is a lot taller. When I step in the rear binding it’s quite fiddly and I can only get out of the rear binding by pulling my feet out of the shoe first :sweat_smile: Will definitely remake this to have slightly longer phase wires.



Update on the ABS_overcurrent issue:

Gone for a short ride around the block today, but I couldn’t really push the board as hard as I would have liked to because the ground was wet. I am still getting ABS overcurrent faults after turning on the slow abs overcurrent setting and having the ABS overcurrent value as high as the firmware lets me set it (160A).

However, I only managed to get it close to zero RPM, where bad tracking can probably be attributed to the silent HFI coupled v0v7 45 degree mode. Would make sense as I’ve managed to cog the motor twice quite a bit while changing directions. On my previous ride which was slightly shorter I got the ABS overcurrent fault multiple times at higher speeds as well. It still needs testing but looks like the issue might be more or less resolved :crossed_fingers: