MBS F5 bindings with new ladder straps after I managed to break one
BN M1-AT gear drives with 5.2 ratio excessively greased into oblivion with Red N Tacky. Must. Be. Waterproof. Denmark weather is not that nice, especially on the coastline where I live…
FS BH 6384 motors in the 170KV variant, one dead hall sensor
Metal Matrix II with Radium adapters and Lacroix Hypertruck bushings from Riptide - currently running white in the front and red in the rear. Had to file out a bit from the baseplate to avoid motor bite, hope it will hold up I also have an Etoxx adjustable baseplate but the Riptide bushings pop out of the their place with that - though those baseplates would mostly fix the motor bite issue on the baseplate
Rockstar II hubs
MBS T3 tires
12S6P 30T battery with an LLT BMS that I made myself. Far from my prettiest battery but safety or current capability wise there’s zero compromises. And it doesn’t have to be the prettiest, as it’s only for personal use. Also it’s one of the first battery packs that I’ve made.
MakerX DV6 running 90A motor 75A battery, and -90A motor -30A battery per side. Pretty respectable acceleration and power due to the low top speed I must say But I will probably grow into it quickly. Due to a dead motor sensor running Silent HFI coupled v0 v7 45 degree or whatever it’s called. Feels good, there can sometimes be a very minimal amount of cogging on startups or when changing directions. Ways better than running no sensors.
Heatsink - I cut a hole into the pelicase knockoff enclosure and jbwelded in a heatsink. The jbweld didn’t end up looking that pretty, but hopefully it won’t start separating like the epoxy did on phase 1. There’s also an adapter plate between the heatsink and the ESC. Right now in the winter thermal performance is phenomenal. With that said I didn’t push the board too hard just yet. But I am sure that with the current setup motors will be the bottleneck as far as temps go, not the ESC.
Flipsky VX1 remote
Got a Metr Pro going into the board soon
Phase 1 was basically the same board just with a smaller enclosure with a 10S2P 40T inside and using the original Matrix bushings.
Weighs 19.5kg, jumping is doable but not the easiest thing to do.
About 30km range. Top speed is 44km/h at full charge. I am fine with the range, the top speed could be higher though, especially when the battery isn’t fully charged
Gone for a short ride around the block today, but I couldn’t really push the board as hard as I would have liked to because the ground was wet. I am still getting ABS overcurrent faults after turning on the slow abs overcurrent setting and having the ABS overcurrent value as high as the firmware lets me set it (160A).
However, I only managed to get it close to zero RPM, where bad tracking can probably be attributed to the silent HFI coupled v0v7 45 degree mode. Would make sense as I’ve managed to cog the motor twice quite a bit while changing directions. On my previous ride which was slightly shorter I got the ABS overcurrent fault multiple times at higher speeds as well. It still needs testing but looks like the issue might be more or less resolved
Thanks! The board has been working well mostly. I took it to a few european races and I performed quite well on it.
I’ve destroyed the helical BNs but I’ve been running straight cuts since the summer and no problems since then. Well until a few days ago at least, when my last working VX1 (out of the 4 that I have, of which 2 were DOA) stopped working. The board just randomly said full throttle while I was strapped in and got a speed wobble… My helmet took a slight hit but I’m fine
It’s going to get a slight facelift / rebuild soon and I am selling the whole board to a friend with a new gt2e remote.
And I am building a new one for myself, which is gonna be much more powerful.
20S4P P42A or 21S if I can make it fit in the pelican storm im2050, D100S, Reacher 6495 175kv, bn 5.2 straight cuts, bn channels, 2021 haero deck, mbs wide rims widened even more on 9x3.5 CST slicks (C190), and some cable management inspiration from your 4wd lacroix, I am super excited for that!
We ended up with a reasonably well working prototype, only got it working the night before the exam! It’s still has quite a lot of bugs and quirks though, it’s really not “safe” to use by any means. But the traction control algorithm works reasonably well (little shaky on wet ground, but actually works on dry ground) and having some sort of ABS in full current mode is phenomenal. No more fear of spinning the tires backwards. However there’s a catch, this algorithm requires 4wd to work. Also worth noting that the current algorithm requires that some wheels have traction to work, so it doesn’t help when all wheels loose traction at the same time
But that project is put on hold for now because my mountainboard will go back to 2wd, and my friends won’t have a powerful enough 4wd for the foreseeable future to actually perform more tests. Also we are at the point where it would be a good idea to rewrite the whole codebase from scratch now that we know how it works. I don’t think we will fix the 4wd only code.
We have a new algorithm figured out that should work on paper even for a 2wd board, but we couldn’t get it to actually work in practice so far. We are all interested in making something that works for 2wd though. And if something works for 2wd it should also work for 4wd.
HELL YEAH - I can tell from recent experience that a 20s4p square brick fits 100% perfect in a pelican 1200 with 2 d100s’s. The 1200 is only slightly smaller than the storm im2050. I believe you would have to get creative with a stagger pack in order to fit 21s4p in the storm, but I may be wrong about that.
haha yeah BN helicals be like that. I do like my 5.5 BN straight cuts tho. BN should have only done straights from the get-go. would have prevented many people having issues with the drives.
I hope not! I am definitely not going to bother with the extra hassle of building a staggered pack this time, if it doesn’t fit with the standard layout then I’m just going 20S. Your build looks great btw! I am going to take some inspiration for the motor cable management
I totally agree! For me the motor gear slipping on the shaft issue ruined two days worth of intro to speed sessions, and I also a had to have a way too long walk of shame… it was like 5 miles I think
I also have an Etoxx adjustable baseplate but the Riptide bushings pop out of the their place with that - though those baseplates would mostly fix the motor bite issue on the baseplate
But I will probably grow into it quickly. Due to a dead motor sensor running Silent HFI coupled v0 v7 45 degree or whatever it’s called. Feels good, there can sometimes be a very minimal amount of cogging on startups or when changing directions. Ways better than running no sensors.
