Big build update!
Turns out the d100s is totally fine. It was just accidentally set to control mode “bidirectional current” on the cogging motor, instead of “off”. If you ever seeing weird cogging on a motor on can, check the control mode…
Im might replace the motor anyway because I overheated it a bit before I figured this out. It appears to work 100% fine, but it smoked a little bit.
Shoutout to @zero_ads for letting me borrow his d100s to diagnose. It was only while setting his d100s up that it dawned on me to recheck the can side control mode….
@DuckBatterySystems recommended some FR4/G10 to insulate the battery from the ESC’s in case they ever suffer a firey death. It’s unlikely but a good precaution nontheless. It also serves as a nice solid base for the entire battery to sit on. Thanks Benjamin for the good idea, and @poastoast for the idea of including it inside the battery shrink wrap.
The D100s’s are packed in with all accessories plugged in. I’m using all 4 uart ports (remote, davega, bluetooth module, hoyt puck receiver for backup (yeah it’s pwm, but it blocks uart port on d100s 
)
The battery fits absolutely perfect inside of the pelican 1200. I added a 1/8 layer of weatherstripping around the outside to protect from bumping the side.
Yup, that’s a stormcore button. After drilling the button hole too high (blocks battery from dropping in fully), we had to get creative. @poastoast had another great idea, repurposing a much smaller stormcore button instead of the stock d100s button (stock button goes DEEP). The momentary button works fine, but I don’t have a light because the stormy is 3v, and d100s is 5v. We also learned that a LP20 is very low profile on the inside, so no issue with charge port here.
Poast also suggested we could 3dp a housing and use the stock button(s). I think eventually I’d like to do that, but this works well for now.
@3DServisas hall sensor going in @Skyart vx4. @poastoast did the soldering here
In the photo below you can see I had to trim a little more plastic off than recommended by @3DServisas instructions. The case would not close correctly unless I did this. I also added 1 layer of 3m vhb on the hall sensor on the “screen side” of the remote, and 2 layers of vhb on the “palm side” of the remote.
Honestly this remote feel fantastic. I still prefer index finger trigger, but this is quite nice.
