and also built in AS
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i think the hardware is still there, its just not to use it as suggested by makerx since it seems to interfere with the power output with the fw
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Think I’m probably going to end up going with the DV6, it’s been thoroughly proven to be a good ESC from what I have seen. I’m going with a loopkey for power anyways so the AS isn’t much of an issue. Not to mention it’s cheaper.
Been looking for something to replace the TENKA that has been collecting dust on my shelf that I was going to put in my mtb, but I just can’t convince myself to actually put it in a board. I really hate not doing anything with it because it’s basically e-waste at that point but I really want something reliable for my first mtb.
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U can sell it to drv repair people to salvage parts, so at least it’s not wasted if u won’t put it in a board
Yes, I’d say DV6 is reliable af out of all the makerx esc, it’s bulletproof, besides if there is any problem, makerx is good at CS they will take good care of u
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Hi guys!
From a first glance, does the attached diagram look correct?
I’m trying to revive a Raptor 2.0 with this BMS:
After a half day’s worth of Googling, I don’t feel like I found sufficient info, so I’m trying myself.
No; try this:
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Does this still apply when I want to utilise that specific BMS’s discharge functionality?
The previous diagram seems to go against the recommendations seen in that diagram, but I’ll admit I might just be confused.
The AntiSpark switch present on the Raptor also seems to be placed in between VESC and battery, so I’m confused why the fuse would be on the charging side and not the discharging side.
No, that diagram is for bypass. To use it in discharge fashion, put the ESC on the “Lights/accessories” circuit and use big wire.
That BMS doesn’t look like it has a discharge capability though, it only has a C- and no P-
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Before i forget. If you get prevented from commenting any further, do not worry this is just the systems “spam protection”. It’ll ease off after a while (24hrs? Not sure) If all goes well and the interaction has been according to what the system deems normal then you’ll have no restrictions.
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Just a quick note…it would be four times the heating since the current in each FET would double. 
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You asked “Is this what it aims to remedy?”
and my answer was “No”, but with more words. You did specifically ask about how it’s used.
It aims to remedy a totally different and unrelated problem.
If you want I can go back to monosyllable answers to your questions in the future, since you seem to have less of a tendency to be a dick in response to those.
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Aside from the below video which is not ideal for clearly explaning a step-by-step process, are there any good instructionals on how to flash a BLE from a VESC-based controller?
I followed the “hard way” instructions here for a few 51822 modules and it worked well. Same process on the 52840 just different firmware.
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looks like your hall sensors and temp sensor aren’t connected
There are bigger issues than that.
Can you check your motor phase wire connections and/or send photos of them?
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does anyone know a thread about how to pack/mount/prepare an eMTB top box?
I’m stuck at the “battery in a pelican case” stage ind idk how to proceed.
yeah I’ve searched but I couldn’t find a thread about it.
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I don’t think there’s a dedicated thread for packing/mounting top boxes but these should be somewhat helpful. I’d also look at some other build threads w top boxes and get some inspiration there.
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This one has a bunch of photos but not specifically about mounting to deck.
My Space Invader build thread has good steps listed in the first post.
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hmm, looks like most of these have the ESC on the rear. as I don’t have a good small enclosure to do that and some space in my battery box I was gonna shove all the electronics in the pelican case and just have phase wires coming out.