@pookybear heeeey!! You think you can help my pal out on this one?
@dickyho has the same motors for sale, I have had too many issues with 74s so I dont bother with them unless they are are hardened maytechs. Ask dicky what the lowdown is for these babies.
Flash your boot loaders.
This some times happend with 6.6 duals
Also dosconnect power after flash
You sometime need to flash a few times. Only happens on flipshites.
I use these.
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Shrink tube with silicone is better but will impact your thermals
Flash bootloader then flash fw.
The error is most likely due to a corrupted bootloader
Awesome thanks for replying Mystical! Iām not exactly sure what my thermal situation is going to be yet. Iām using a Flipsky 4.12 dual, attached to two 6374s and a 10s5p battery, any chance you can make a guess based on that?
The hope is I can tape this thing up to secure it against my BMS with a layer of tape in between both of them, and then the whole block is going to be attached via 15lb Velcro to the bottom of the enclosure. Iām very tight on space due to a lack of foresight on some thingsā¦
Sweet, ended up finding those on amazon too using this name as a search. Thanks man
Hey guys, just ordered a bigben enclosure and a nice deck.
Whats your take?
wood screws and battery to enclosure?
Or threaded inserts and velcro to deck?
Oh yeh you guys wrote about it thank you very much guys!
But on a noob note any sources for EU threaded inserts and possibly green or black bolts?
(ie recommendations so I donāt buy something under or overrated)
First, thereās no such thing as a flipsky 4.12 dual, only a single. The earliest dual they have is the 4.20 dual, of which there are two versions. Both are far better than the original 4.x reference design in terms of thermal performance due to the use of different FET packages and an aluminum heat spreader, but that heat spreader is only gonna do so much covered in tape. Iād recommend only taping the bare minimum for electrical isolation, avoiding restriction of airflow.
Second, having all your electronics (especially the battery) supported by the enclosure is a recipe for trouble unless the enclosure is purposely overbuilt to handle that stress. Itās much better to stick everything to the deck, and have the enclosure simply be a cosmetic dust cover, supporting itself only. Otherwise the vibration and shock of riding is extremely punishing on the enclosure mounts.
Threaded inserts and velcro to deck. I had to stand on my hummie deck to get the battery to pry off.
More info on mounting in my build thread
Iām exited thank you!
So you place masking tape on the deck,
line up the enclosure and drill a hole through the enclosure and into the deck for a plot hole.
you then remove the enclosure, insert the inserts and then place weather strip along the flange area.
(loctiteing lightly when ready) correct?
also I suck would It be dumb to cheap out with these guys?
Theyāre 8mm but m5 I think you used m4
My process:
- Line up the enclosure visually. Make sure itās where you want it or you just lost from step one.
- Clamp it gently but solidly in place so it doesnāt slide. Do not let it slide, I repeat.
- Tape the deck around the outside edge of the enclosure to give you an outline of the enclosure on the deck. Painters tape or masking tape work great. This helps with alignment just in case you skipped over that whole ādonāt let it slipā part. This is also when I add any weather stripping foam, rubber, butyl gasket, etc by tracing the edge of the tape.
- Mark on your enclosure where you want your bolts to be. Try and keep it in the middle of the flat part of the enclosure flange, not too close or far from the edge. A chalk line helps a lot for making a clean straight line but a straight edge or yard/meter stick works fine too.
- Drill tiny pilot holes through each of your marks. Use a drill bit thatās much smaller than the bolt going there and donāt drill it very deep. The idea is just to transfer the marks from the enclosure to the deck.
- You can remove your enclosure now and should have tiny shallow holes where your inserts will go.
- Pick up a drill bit that is the same size (or barely smaller) as the shank (not threaded part) of your insert if they donāt recommend a size.
- Figure out how deep the hole for the insert needs to be without punching through your deck.
I use a socket wrench as a drill stop. - Insert all your threaded inserts. I like using the hex head ones and a drill to make sure they go in quick and donāt over or under torque. I recommend using a bit of epoxy on the outside of the threads before inserting them. Let them fully dry for 24hrs at least before bolting the enclosure on.
- You might have to widen the enclosure holes with a larger drill bit so your bolts can go through but youāll already have the pilot hole there to guide you.
Wow man such a beautiful write up This really means much to me
youāre saving my deck and enclosure.
Iāll read this another 5 times go sleep wake up and then another 5
Thanks!!!
Sadly I tried mounting on the board at first but it just wasnāt happening due to the deep concave of the board. Luckily the enclosure is tight and the battery fills it completely, and the battery is forced against the crest of the deck concave when enclosure is on. Only dead space is between the ESC and the BMS, and thatās the area Iām scared about with vibrations.
Sounds good on trying to keep the taping to a minimum, its gonna take some playing around to get it right. I definitely plan to post a sanity check pic before I take this on the road, thanks so much for your help!
I ended up finding out that my hall sensor wires were too short so now I have extensions on the way from amazonā¦
I had a hell of a time with my build getting threaded inserts right, I recommend getting a complete kit like
I had a lot of trouble getting the hole size right and all that. It really helped that I perfected it on a piece of scrap wood first. My tests showed me that I also had to use JB weld epoxy on the inserts to prevent them from backing out.
Also this drill collar worked good for getting the depth right
I do not recommend the EZlock kit! It is but frustration.
Rather use a screw to screw it in.
How do you get a circlip back onto the motor shaft?
I had a missing one, so I ordered a few from Accu, but hey are so strong, I canāt open them without breaking them, shooting off two trajectiles in adjacent directions.
Might it be possible to get a new circlip from @torqueboards? Itās for a TB 6374 motor.
@PrivacyDoctor - You should be able to use any 7mm diameter cir-clip also. Usually harbor freight has a wide assortment of them. Mcmaster works too. We have some also. You can email us.
Thank you, Iāll check there! Might it also be possible to get the original bearing? (Previous owner ran it without circlip for a while, and it sounds damaged now)