It depends if your connecting the circuit when it’s live or not
I use a AS Switch and have a back up XT90s on the out side of the board but will use normal XT90 on the inside as I know I will never be useing them when the Caps are depleted.
Ok, though @Athrx said to avoid brass at all costs, who’s right?!? My deck is a hummie, so a combo of wood and carbon fiber, not 100% wood
You can use whatever you want, but I can tell you the brass ones have worked much better for me than the small thread ones I assume are made for metal since they have self-tapping threads and work like shit in wood/composite
The silver ones go in slot-first, the brass ones go in slot-last
Also my decks are composite/wood combos as well
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do self-tapping threads mean no drilling?
No, you still have to drill for either one.
For the brass one, drill the hole the size of the body of the insert, minus the threads
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Also use @Venom121212’s socket trick for drilling those!! You WILL accidentally drill through your deck sooner or later using the tape method (or just eyeballing it).
And to further elaborate on that, don’t make your bolts completely symmetrical around the edge because then you can have “accidentally installed enclosure backwards” supreme fuck ups (this is easier to do than you think)
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Are the thread measurements even listed? The only info I see (say 8mm) presumably refers to the body.
Also, why might brass be a bad idea?
The body of the ones I linked in M4 thread are 6.20mm⌀
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I have no idea
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@b264, i assume these works? need to stock a bit just incase shit happens
their thread looks big enough? not sure tho
I thought brass was softer than the steel ones? At least in my experience, the brass stripped while drilling/screwing in while the steel did not. Though I don’t have enough experience with either to say if one will stay in better than the other
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Great tips here, thanks!
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I would not use those.
I actually can’t find those on AliExpress (this is shocking, as I can typically find everything on AliExpress)
I might try these
or PM me if you want me to export some, but they will be costly
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Pretty sure brass is softer, so yeah could strip more easily. I guess that’s where brass can go wrong. Guessing steel is bad because it can strip the wood, ie too hard…just spitballing at this point, haven’t used either yet
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My experience isn’t the metal stripping, it’s the wood holding it stripping out, even with epoxy. So the entire fastener comes out with a slug of wood/composite around it.
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sadly i can’t use those, TB40 doesn’t have through hole…not gonna drill through it either (if im correct about the flanged part should be top deck side?)
I will have to search a bit more and see if anything comes up
Just curious, how did this happen that the insert was ripped out?
You will only ever pull high battery amps at high speed while still accelerating. It takes me about 40 battery amps to maintain a speed of 50km/hr. I’m limited at 60 battery amps on my 18650 pack now so it’s just enough to handle reaching that speed in a reasonable time.
You can absolutely run 1:1 battery and motor amps even for 6380’s. It will sag when it’s too high anyway and reach max duty cycle, then as amps get lower gain more total duty (voltage) and accelerate more and so on until it balances out.
About inserts, brass is so soft you can fully screw in your bolt on the wrong threads and it won’t oppose much. It also strips really, really easily, especially if you use any kind of pre-compression to seal the enclosure and need to check inside often. Use steel with beefier “hooks” on the outside
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Riding the skateboard and extreme vibrations from going over cracks and whatnot
Never underestimate what repeated vibrations can cause
Allow this dude to demonstrate. One knock wouldn’t hurt this machine at all. But, ten thousand knocks? Feast your eyes upon it
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damn, that washer just won’t stop spinning 
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