@WARMAN when checking the switch in continuity mode press the blue button on your multimeter. if you touch the probed together you should hear a beep. This tells you your in the right mode.
Then put them on the button wires, when the button is pressed you should also hear that beep.
If this is the case the mechanical button is fine. If you can’t make this work there’s a chance that it’s just the button that is faulty.
FYI, some multimeters have the continuity mode as a sub-option of the selection wheel. I’ve had two that had to be turned to the Ohm/resistance measurement setting, but then the continuity detection had to be selected with a select button, two or three taps in.
So it should be at a point where touching the probes gives you a tone/beep to show a completed circuit.
Thanks @ducktaperules I’ll try this after I’ve eaten dinner,fingers crossed it is that,would be a quick fix!
Glad my Amazon delivery of remy martin 1738 cognac turned up today,I’ll be having a glass or 3 later lol
Ok so in the setting @Lee_Wright circled and pushing the blue button I get the beep when touching the probes together,I put the jst connections pointing up to get the probes in there and I get a constant reading and the beep!
Sounds like it’s what @linsus suggested!
If you want you can have a look at this thread and read until the bottom. This subject has been up before about blown antisparks on the unities. Im sure your case is no different.
Its not magically gonna work by itself. Either warranty or send it for repair.
Im curious to find out what the improvement was on this esc vs the old unity. Perhaps the failure mode where it gets stuck in “On” mode is solved… but this (less frequent?)failure mode is still possible.
I see people using loop keys instead,How would you use that with a xenith to bypass the antispark?
I’m not going to but just interested in how one would do this?
you could just bridge the 2 MOM pins and add a loop key - something like this. l wouldnt build anything whithout
if you bridge the MOM pins you still use the antispark circuit in the unity- I think it would be possible to bridge the whole circuit but I assume it wasnt designed for this
Be interesting to know how this held up,Thanks
Edit:I see that update was 21 minutes ago, @brown5tick have any pics you could share? @Fatglottis ever done this on a xenith?
I haven’t had the chance to put much mileage on mine since it’s been up-and-running again but I did give it some punishment, which it’s stood up to admirably.
@Lee_Wright What was the turn arround on that replacement,weather is perfect atm and you know how uk weather be!
Shame man,for that brief moment i was having fun like I did a couple years ago on my previous build!
Well we carry stock and had made another order so BKB added another in for this chap and we sent it to him the day they came in.
If it was bought from us and BKB were going to honour the warranty we would send you one immediately and then just get another in our next drop from BKB.
We do have another order coming from them in the next week so if you guys can sort it out we would be happy to send you one if BKB want to include the extra one in our drop
Might raise your custom charges though,if they are shipping to the UK might be best if they just send me the one unit,whatever is best? Just want to get it up and running again soon. @BuildKitBoards
Such a cheap part as well! I’ve been speaking to someone that managed to bypass this and use an external antispark.
I think I’ve just been unlucky though,I’m willing to give a replacement another shot first as there’s plenty of people without issues!
Hot take>>>>You should spend the coin and buy one that gets you back riding from Lee and crew. Then you’ve got a back up or one to sell when you receive the replacement.