Hello electron wizards,
I’d like to get some validation on the schematic for my wiring. Apologies for the multiple images, a single screenshot is too low quality. I have attached a PDF to view the whole diagram in one:
just soen quick component stuffs
1 - the transmitter is actually the receiver
2 - for the charger circuit, you really only need xt30/xt60 at most qith 18-14awg wire, and you may want to look at raising that fuse from 5A up to 10A or so (someone can double check that value, i’m ballparkin there). you won’t be pullin enough amps there to justify the 12 awg and xt90
3 - although the loopkey is technically correct, you may wanna look at flipping it, for easier mounting solution (they make an xt90e-m (panel mount), makes it super easy to work with, so long as you got da space). most of the peeps here that use the loopkey use the female plug as the key bit (and just for the right page sake female as in the bullet connector bit inside female ya?)
Yep, meant that haha
The only reason I wanted to use an XT-90 was for anti-spark. Also, I’m using 10AWG to connect the battery to charging circuit because fitting any smaller into an XT-90 would be like throwing a sausage down a hallway. So I take it the charger circuit doesn’t need an anti-spark connection?
Okay I get you, thanks 
the antispark only work when plugging the xt90. once it’s fully seated it functions as a normal plug as the internal resistor is bypassed, so it’d be useless
i guess another quick bit, my own 2c, but 12awg is
more than enough for your application. would
make things much easier to assemble and gives you more flexibility and space (das just me tho, nothin wrong with 10awg)
ooooother than that, the wiring looks good to me! i’d wait to get a bit more feedback, just to be safe tho 
Couple of things I noted. First, your loopkey needs to be female much like how you have terminated your main battery output. If the diode burns out or what have you would need to do much more work to swap the loopkey out. Do a panel mount with an XT90E and make your loopkey out of the female conector that has the built in antispark.
Next, I’d terminate your charging leads with an XT30. XT90 is wayyyyy overkill and needlessly bulky. XT30 is a much better choice.
Also noted you’ve listed the fuse as “5 amp”. Unless ur charging at 2.5 or maybe 3 amps that’s not appropriately rated. Double wtv your intended charge rate is. For e.g. if ur charging at 5 amps, u need a 10 amp fuse. I’d also consider an xt30 for your charge port as xt60 is also overkill but that’s up to you.
Other than that, looks good 
@poastoast pointed that one out, thanks for the explanation though I didnt realise it affected the anti spark capability.
I will go XT60 rather than XT30 in case I go down the fast charging route in future. I agree that the XT90 is overkill.
Im using an inline car fuse holder like this:
The fuses are easily replaceable and come in a range of different ratings. The charger I am looking to buy sends 3A, so a 6A fuse would be best. However the listing for the fuse holder comes with fuses and they are either 5A or 7.5A so i figured the safer option is the lower one.
Cheers
XT30 will do 30 amps continuous FYI. You plan on charging at over 30 amps?
XT30 will carry 30A continuous, I can’t imagine the charger you’d need to exceed the capacity of an XT30.
Also there is no such thing as XT90S male. All male are XT90. XT90S female are the antispark connectors with the green stripe.
Male have pins, female have holes.
12AWG wire is way too huge for a charging circuit, it just wastes weight and cost, try looking at the table. 16AWG - 18AWG is probably plenty. Going too big on wire past your current needs can be bad because during catastrophic failures, it doesn’t fuse away as easily. Likewise, for very low currents, in the sub 5A range, going too small can be bad because the tiny wire sizes don’t handle prolonged vibration as well and can break near or at joints.
This is not a reason to use 10AWG. Solder will stick a smaller wire to it with ease, in fact it will be far easier to achieve a better connection with smaller wire.
XT30 = 15A continuous, 30A peak
XT60 = 30A continuous, 60A peak
XT90 = 45A continuous, 90A peak
When connected to an esc, it’s probably OK to use the peak ratings as battery current is rarely constant, so the connector has time to cool off.
But charging is constant current for most of the charge cycle so the continuous rating is more important there.
These have been demonstrated to be “CYA ratings”, and way under what the connectors can do. These numbers are a way of saying “Don’t sue us”. The ratings have also changed over time, trending downward.
An Amass XT90 desolders itself in open air at around 295A
A 20A fuse will also do 100A without blowing, as long as the time is short enough.
Those continuous ratings are meant to be indefinite. I haven’t seen any data or videos showing an XT30 running at 30A for hours, like it would experience when charging, without melting or otherwise overheating… so I think it’s a little early to say those are just CYA ratings…
FWIW most chargers aren’t 30a anyway. I put all of my charge ports through an internal XT30 disconnect, and most of the time the charge ports are rated for less current than it is, my fastest charger is 10a and I’ve never seen the charge connector get above 28c
I would go with the 7.5A.
What software do you use to make diagrams?
PowerPoint 
Just another thought - would it work to use an XT90-E panel mount connector on the battery? Or does the antispark have to be battery-side to work?
I have an XT90E in use for my loop key mounted to the enclosure. The antispark is most useful when ur going to be plugging and unplugging something in again which will cause an inrush. This is why we use them for loopkeys. I always terminate my battery with an XT90s as well but it’s optional. You absolutely MUST use a female XT90s for the loopkey itself tho.
Check out this thread:
The antispark part of the XT90 does absolutely nothing except during insertion. In the milliseconds during you pushing the plugs together, a ring first makes contact, energizing the circuit through a resistor first (to prevent inrush current spikes) and then very shortly after that, shorting out that resistor with copper.
As far as whether it’s a panel mount version or not, that doesn’t matter at all to the circuit.
Okay, what Im trying to understand is whether i can 3d print a panel for the battery to have a non-antispark connector (i.e. male on the battery, female plugging into it) but plug into it with antispark. Does that make sense?
