I am finally getting started on my first emtb build now that I am finally settled after my move!
III:THE EMPRESS
Upright: Beauty, nature, nurturing, abundance
Reversed: Creative block, dependence on others
Now I don’t actually know almost anything about tarot cards, but I saw the description of this card and thought that it was just so apt for my goals and experiences so far with this build. I scrapped quite a few ideas that I originally wanted to tackle for this build just because the time/payout just didn’t add up for me. That’s where the creative block/dependence on others come in. Inspiration from other builds here for the first, relying on all the information I have gathered over my time here for the second.
The general goal for this build is to have a more lightweight build that I can take to skateparks/pump tracks/park trails, and then have a removable range pack that I can use whenever I need to go on longer rides. I am still working on how I want to setup the range pack but for now I am going to be focusing on the core setup for the build. Most of my rides are generally within 10 miles so I figured a 12s2p will most likely cover that use case. Plan at the moment is just to have an XT90 available to plug into (with both batteries at full charge of course) that is panel mounted to the enclosure.
Inspirations:
NESE Modular Jumper @sleepless
Gathering Storm @Pedrodemio
The two above for their modular batteries
EVOLUTION @ducktaperules
Was originally going to make an external ESC case in the middle of the board akin to this one but ended up deciding against it when I opted to go 2WD rather than 4WD. I still absolutely love the main ideas behind this one though.
Parts:
- Apex Predator Haero Bro
- 6384/140kv w/ circlip cutout
- Chain Drive 5:1 Ratio w/ mounts
- Apex Airs
@MBS
Pulled these parts of of the Dylan Warren II prebuilt I got from them during black friday sales, the DWII was a bit too stiff for my liking.
- Rockstar II
- 8" Tires
-
Matrix II with either yellow or orange shockblocks
Swapped with airs due to compatibility issues with the chain drive
- 12s2p P42A brick pack (couldn’t pass this up on sale for $200)
Remote:
- Hoyt puck with Poastmote shell, what I use on my current board. Just got a second receiver.
ESC:
TENKA, I know the sentiment around these is that they are generally garbage but I bought this before I joined here and didn’t know anything about the reputation of the company. I want to put it to use if I can rather than just never use it. If it shits the bed on me I am planning to replace it with a DV6 or similar.- Decided against even trying to use the TENKA, will save it for a low power board or selling it for parts. Bought a DV6, I want to do this one properly.
Enclosure:
- Harbor Freight Apache 1800, the pack and ESC just barely squeeze into this with enough room for electronics
Telemetry:
- Metr Pro, I intend to use this to switch between power profiles once I figure out how I am going to attach the second battery pack.
Next Steps:
Actually starting the build process, I’m pretty sure I have gathered all the parts that I need at this point and I think I’m going to start with the layout of the enclosure.
As of right now I think that I am going to orient it horizontally with the phase/sensor wires running below the battery into MR60s that are epoxied into the enclosure. Using JB Weld steel at the moment unless there are any other recommendations for something that would better suit this use case. I was originally going to go with 2 PG11 glands but I think they are going to end up being too thick to fit properly. All of the phase/sensor wires are going to run under a custom rubber foot pad.
It actually does baaaaarely squeeze in there
I also need to figure out how to shorten/seal the pressure release valve of the case as I don’t really want the exposed metal to be rubbing up against the side of my pack.
Loopkey and second battery plug are going to end up either being mounted to the underside or the lid, leaning towards underside at the moment. Might do underside for the second battery and lid for the loopkey. Don’t think I’m gonna bother with a regular switch on this one, loopkey should be enough. I also need to draw up a wiring diagram before I start soldering so that I make sure to keep everything sorted properly.
Also I’m guessing I want to solder up all the connections before epoxying in all the connectors? It seems like it would be a huge pain to try and do that afterwards.
I’ll move on to setting up the drivetrain after I sort out all the electronics. With how easy Apex made it to assemble everything using circlips I’m hoping that portion of the build won’t take that long.
If anyone has any suggestions on improvements/modifications to the plan that I might want to make please feel free to comment! I want to start this build soon but want to make sure I’m not missing anything obvious before doing so. I made quite a few mistakes on my first build and want to make sure I don’t make them again here!!
. That said, it almost goes all the way to the MBS straps and I still never notice it. It’s mostly personal preference / aesthetics, but I vote lengthwise. Also think about if you’ll want to open it while strapped it - lengthwise will be a little easier, although again not a high priority concern.
. Dremel the shaft down when it’s fully tightened then epoxy over the sharp bits. Not sure how this will affect the waterproof-ness but hopefully not too bad.
