I’ve been been working on a hot-rod. Low, wide and fast… really fast. Here’s what I’ve got going on.
I designed a 37.5" deck with a 1 1/4" drop. It’s similar to my 42" boat the “Pale-horse”, just shorter and the styling is a little different. I used black stain on this one, not black paint so that I can still see the grain of the bamboo. Under the fiberglass lay-up it looks beautiful and is well protected from scratches and gouges. I went with clear grip because I liked the contrast of the natural bamboo with the black stain. There is some glow grip speckled in because I’m a dork.
For more info on how I make my decks check out this thread https://forum.esk8.news/t/gulveig-35-at-integrated-deck-custom-feather-remote-12s4p-stormcore-60d-maytech-6374/35237. Also, you can purchase them at my website tomiboiesk8.com.
The drive system is 3D Servisas Fatboy SS Mini with helical gears (1:2.4) and 260 mm hangers. I went with the largest motors that the gear-drives and hangers could accommodate, 6384. These ones are Flipsky 6384 190kv. With the 1:2.4 gearing, this thing should be able to go really fast. As a suggestion, if you order gear-drives form 3Ds, ask for them to be assembled with the drives positioned properly for your build if possible. Red thread-lock is used, which isn’t meant to be unfastened like the blue stuff is. It is extreeeeeeeeemely difficult to adjust the position of the drives.
To power the board @ZachTetra is putting together a 13s2p p42a battery pack. His batteries look dope. Super clean work. I can’t wait to try one out with this board and a few other builds that I have coming up. To make up for the 8.4 Ah capacity I’m using an 8A charger so that I can juice it up really quick. A Daly 13s 80A BMS is going to be used. I really like that BMS because of the Red anodized aluminum heat sink… which just so happens to match the red anodized aluminum on the 100A Stormcore 
I’m excited about these Stormcore ESCs. They’ve got a lot of nice features. I’ve been running a 60A on another build and it works really nice. I hope Lacroix adds to the Stormcore line-up. A smaller, less expensive one would be great for lower power builds. The power button is one of my favorite things. Every ESC needs rave-lighting built into the button. The lights change according to battery level. Also, the button they chose is a tap-button instead of a locking push-button. Locking push-buttons seem to have a short life, so I’m interested to see how this one works out.
For Urethane I’m using cushy 72a 110mm TB wheels. I got the black ones. They look perfect on this build. The baseplates are Caliber II 45 degree, and I went with riptide bushings. I bought a few different shapes to play with, but they are all the Krank 87a and 96a formulations. I’m going to try 87a Chubbies, board-side, with 87a cones, street-side, first.
Hoyt has really gone wild with the puck. I hadn’t tried it until recently, and though I have my gripes, I mostly like it. A fatter thumbwheel with a bump on it would be nice and an oval remote shape would be more ergonomic, but then they couldn’t call it the “Puck”. Regardless, I’m having some fun with it. It’s solid and works well. Also, they have all of the colors and three different spring tensions, which is really nice for the DIYer. Lastly they sell the guts so you can make your own enclosure. So I am. I’m going to switch out the battery and remove the plastic housing to make it quite a bit thinner. Also, I’m going to use some really nice West-African Ebony hardwood to make the enclosure. This stuff is beautiful, exotic and rare. If it were any harder, it would be petrified. And it is jet-black all of the way though. I hope that I don’t accidentally fuck it up 
Now, the puck doesn’t have a little screen with all kinds of info on it, but I’ll survive. Honestly, I mostly only use the screen for battery-info, and the Stormcore button has me covered there. Also, the built-in Bluetooth on the Stormcore easily connects to Xmatic and the VESC app. So I’ve got telemetry covered.
That’s it for now. Once I get the battery back, I’m going to wrap this up and get some riding in. Until then, keep it real 
I lay out the broad-strokes of the process in the thread for the short AT deck that I made. There are certainly a lot of tricks involved with milling things that aren’t flat. If you have access to a CNC and would like to try making a deck like this, message me and I’ll give you the low down.
