Orange is [Still] for Safety | Trampa | Street-Wing | IDEA | eBoosted | Stormcore | Davega | Metr | iLogger

Original build: First Build! | Orange is for Safety! | Trampa | Street-Wing | Unity | Flipsky | 12s8p 30Q | GridVision

Deck - (modified with @Andy87 plugs) Holy Pro @Trampa
Light Clamps - Truck Tactical Clamps @Kaly
Lights - Olight Pl-Pro, Meilan X-5
Suspension - B_Dampers @Kaly
Trucks - Vertigo @Trampa
Bull bar - @Trampa
Drive - v7.8 @IDEA
Enclosure - Trampa DS @eBoosted
Motors - 190KV 6374 @davdBanner
Controller - Stormcore 60D @Arch @Deodand @Blasto
BMS - Daly 12s
Remote - Puck @JJHoyt
Batteries - 12S8P 30Q (Samsung)
Telemetry - MetrPro @rpasichnyk, iLogger @WavRX, DaveGa @janpom

(I saw some of you doing your build posts like this, I thought it was hot. So I stole the idea. Thank you. :heart:)


Stripped down the entire deck to plug the “speed holes” with @Andy87‘s file. Also made 3 to plug the holes to where my top mount used to go.

The next thing to do was the grip tape. Atm I’m unsure if I wanna ride it without straps or not. I’ll see. The first thing I did was glue some pieces of paper Using washable school glue then tape the edges to reinforce the template. Made my tape from two different colors and instead of making it simple I opted for varying widths on the stripes.

To finish off, I glued the template pieces to the back of the grip tape and then cut them. After cutting them was putting them on the deck following the numbers I placed on the template.


Got this beautiful thing from @eBoosted, arrived so fast it’s ridiculous. First things first, made some holes for the power buttons, the charging port, the motor wires and my davega and LEDs. I opted for glands since I have a ton of them. The clinko port I actually got super early on when I was starting the first build. Didn’t use it as I couldn’t find a proper place to use and and I was also unsure about it. Now that I’ve seen a lot of you use it I opted to jump on the bandwagon. :yum:

With a sticky backed double walled gasket ran it around the top of the enclosure before anything else. Placed some sticky back foam on the top of the enclosure and made a rough outline. This is for the deck side, what is going to be against the battery and electronics. Coffee for scale. :sparkles::coffee::sparkles:

I then clamped the enclosure to the bottom of the deck so I could get the screwholes done. Started with 5mm drill bit for the screws then 7mm on the deck for the rivets with the enclosure off. I might go and add some more adhesive to the rivets for peace of mind.

The next thing up was padding up the wells for the pgtoups. Some on the bottom and some on the sides. I’m not ready to take on potting, also don’t have the space for that. :crazy_face:

Lastly, the electronics. I printed the Unity mount that I got from @LEE. Very useful as it come with a lot of channels for wire management. JB welded some screws to it so I can attach @3DServisas unity plate. Then glued the thing to the deck. If it comes off I’ll think about mounting differently but I don’t want more holes. :weary:

Used soft Velcro to prevent the BMS from moving too much and added some foam near the LED switch to help keep it in place. Attached the Bluetooth module for it and Dual-locked it to the top of it. Next to it I did the same for @WavRX’s iLogger module.

Using the channels at the bottom of the unity mount, I routed all the wires that did not need immediate disconnection. Since the plate is removable it’s going to be okay. Make for a much cleaner top view, less chances for wires to get messed up from moving around too much. I might add some cable clips to make things a little more tidy.


First things first was to dismantle my old brick. I should’ve documented that. It wasn’t too difficult but still nerve wracking.

The next thing to do was remove the old battery sleeves. Decided I was going to go with orange to keep with the board theme. I know I won’t be able to see them but knowing about it makes me giddy lmfao.

Glued the pgroups together first using GE Sealant silicon in black. Measured the distance and cut nickel strips to length.

With some fishpaper separating each 4p, I wrapped some Kapton tape to secure everything. Look at these cute lil pre packs.

Started spot welding everything. Multiple magnets to speed up things just a bit.

I got these sweet battery pcbs from @DerelictRobot and boy are they pretty. Spot welded everything together using my newly acquired kWeld from @tatus1969

Got clear battery pack shrink tubing so I could preserve the prettiness of the pcbs and also my hard labor on the resleeving of the cells. Also makes for quick troubleshooting if needed.

Before soldering everything up. I had to make some padding to prevent the groups from moving too much. A little less permanent so should make servicing easy. Had this left over foam from a different non esk8 project, so used some. Was a perfect fit.

Opted to make the battery hardwired. Originally I was going to use the modular kit from Mr. Robot but scrapped that idea because of space.

Once everything was soldered and ready to go. Was to finalize the cable management ad make sure my davega and led driver cables were routed correctly. Added a strip of sticky backed foam under those cable with some slack for flexing.

And the “motor bay” looks hot af. :heart_eyes:

And thus the battery is complete. I’m am proud of this thing.


Time to install this. Been eyeing these drives from @IDEA for a while. I thought I wanted gears, well maybe I still do but I think I want belts. I’ll use gears for a different build. :heart: I used the drive for almost a whole year! That’s actually a good feeling, now I get to try a different drive set up.

Nothing much to say about the tear down. I think I could write up a review and break down the pros and cons about the Trampa gears.

Regardless, after removing the gear drive I did a quick light tightness fit on the cross bar and the mounts. Had to fiddle with it a bit to make sure everything was aligned.

Place holder the motor with the screws to check everything…

Place the wheel pulley the correct direction, lock tight it against the hub.

Lastly, pull and tension the belt and temporarily lock it down. Slowly made my way around all the screws to get them all loctited. Put everything together and wait for the Loctite to dry.

Get on the vesc app and reset everything up, also set up this sexy ass orange stained wooded puck. Loooooooove this thing, evey single build I do from now on will have it I think.

And it’s done!!! :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:


Hey bud,
Your last deck is awesome, looking forward to the next one!


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OP 8.14.20 - Teaser.

Edit 8.21.20 - Welp. Didn’t mean to post this yet but I saved edit on accident lmfao. I’ll finish the post soon.
(I’ll edit this post with what was edited later.)

Edit 8.22.20 - Build 90% complete. Changed OP to reflect finished build photos. Drive tab not complete just yet.

Edit 9.15.20 - Build is now complete.

Edit 12.26.20 - Fire fix, includes new controller and old bms.

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Riding this without straps is definitely something else. I may leave it like that and add some concave to it. I do like the idea of not having to worry about a little bump to throw me off though. Getting some straps from @MBS just in case I change my mind.


Awesome build, that thing is loaded! I like that orange design. I’m taking some inspiration for my next build :slightly_smiling_face:

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Ay thanks. It was both fun and also a nightmare to make work. I had to crap so many ideas and/or change how some things worked or made some critical (non-damaging) mistakes that added hours of extra work lmfao.

Can you please show a close-up/detail picture how you connected the iLogger to the unity esc?

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I’m using the can method since I am currently using the uart port for my davega.
So: gps module>cable>ilogger>can cable>can port on unity.

I have to open the enclosure when I get home, let me know if the wording and the quoted photo don’t help.


Where’s the gps module and ilogger in the pic and why do you need a separate gps module? I thought ilogger is a gps module?

Edit: if it is too much hassle you do not need to open the enclosure for me (i hope i don’t have to open mine any time soon; was crazy to cramp all the stuff in there and get a tight/hopefully waterproof fit).

You need the gps module to correctly plot stuff, the ilogger is just the logging device. It’s just in front of unity and before the usb plug. The small pcb just right there.


May be I missed it: so which gps module did you use?

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I personally got this but you can also use a few others. Best is to look at one that fit your profile and ask @WavRX to check if its compatible,

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Also don’t judge me on my painted Kendas. I think they look hot. :yum:

Beautiful build!

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Hey I have a question, why use iLogger and Metr Pro? aren’t they same difference? (Serious question)

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One uses actual GPS connection through a GPS module. Mostly just wanting to help test things!

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It finally happened. My first :fire:. :sob:

Casualties so far:

  • Backplate from @3DServisas
  • Receiver from @JJHoyt
  • 3d printed unity mount from @LEE
  • Some cables and connectors.

Need to check:

  • Buck converter
  • iLogger from @WavRX
  • GPS module


  • Battery
  • Unity
  • Some cables

Dude what happened? You ok?

woah, what happened? you gud?

Does not look like t was the batteries!?