Here is my most recent theory, when I took the pins out of the connector, and put them through the heat shrink, there was enough capacitance in the caps to cause a short and kill the NRF chip.
Capacitance can’t cause a short, it’s just a characteristic of a capacitor.
Wait…were you saying that there could have been enough voltage in the input caps that when you were heat shrinking those pins you shorted the input caps via those pins and zapped the NRF chip?
By creating an inductive voltage spike? The voltage from the input caps was on those pins? Probably would have seen a spark though.
ESD is a hugely under-appreciated failure mechanism and would be my vote unless that TX/RX reversal did it.
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Can you tell us more about your setup? Btw, this thread here is where you can post as many questions as you want 
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What deadband settings did you set in vesc tool for your remote? Also a longer positive ramping time could reduce the jump.
I was referring to the tiny little ceramic caps on the NRF PCB. All of the pins got pressed together when I was pushing it through some heat shrink tubing- it worked until I did that. I sort of did things out of order, and I heat shrinked the NRF PCB, and glued it down with hot glue, before adding heat shrink to the wires. I should have had it disconnected.
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Fair. I feel like stuff gets lost on Noob questions.
Anyways. Setup is dual sk8 6374 192kv. Vanpro mini trigger remote.two 6s turnigy 12mah 12-25s in series. So 12s. Apex bms.
Formerly focbox unity, currently stormcore 60d+.
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I don’t think I’ve ever actually sat down to do dead-band settings. Just ppm mapping.
I’m pretty sure that remote needs to have its fail safe and set to zero but I forget how to do it
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I set my failsafe before. Let me look into that article a bit more
If I were to fill in a truck mounting hole on a deck to redrill it, should I epoxy a dowel in, fill with fiberglass+epoxy, or just epoxy (milliput)? Which would be the sturdiest solution?
1 - will the voltage cutoff start send any sort of alert to the remote? (Running Flipsky dual fsesc 6 with a VX2)
2 - getting a slight variance between kms travelled on my remote vs gps app (remote says 14.8 and gps says 13.8), is this normal for hilly riding or do I need to tweak the remote settings. I’ve got wheel diameter set to 198mm for 8in tyres but maybe it should be 200 (see both recommended in different places)
Thanks guys
is there an order to follow when plugging in and charging and removing the charger e.g. wall>board>power ON
power OFF>remove wall>remove board
With some chargers (usually the cheap ones) you’ll get a spark if you do:
Charger into board then into outlet
But it doesn’t really matter.
I normally plug into the wall then board, and removing in any way
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So…axles into hangers, red thread locker…and…
How much torque am I screwing the axles down with? Just until they stop? Really snug? A bit extra?
Any thoughts or expertise is greatly appreciated. 
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I’m a noob, but i used loctite 648.
Then handtightened till it stopped, and snugged it with moderate pressure using this universal thing.
I used this so i wouldn’t strip or snap anything.
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When I got my set I used blue loctite and then just cranked them down, and they haven’t budged since.
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I just purchased a carbon deck (Evoan Pro) for a glow up on my board. I heard that with a carbon deck you’ll have Bluetooth connection issues, any way I can fix this? Perhaps tactically positioning my electronics somehow? I’m using a Unity with VX2 Pro, thanks guys
Yep! It’s an external bt rx you can have it outside of your enclosure. But this is only really necessary if you have a metal/carbon/some other conductive enclosure/deck combo
“Really snug” is a good number
I didn’t use any loctite on mine and the never budged
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